![\"\"](\"http:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/Diarbekir.jpg\" "\\"Diarbekir\\"")
<\/a>Bu hafta Meryem Ana Kilisesi<\/em>‘nden s\u00f6z etmek istiyorum. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc i\u00e7ler ac\u0131s\u0131 virane bu kilisenin y\u0131k\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f sa\u011flam durumdayken, avlusunda atlar\u0131n ba\u011fl\u0131 oldu\u011fu bir foto\u011fraf\u0131 elime ge\u00e7ti. Foto\u011frafa bak\u0131nca, i\u00e7imden; “Hey gidi g\u00fcnler hey, bu tarih\u00ee g\u00f6rkemli eser b\u00f6yle mi<\/em> olacakt\u0131” dedim.\nNeyse…
\nFoto\u011fraf, Gertrude Bell (1868-1926) adl\u0131 bir \u0130ngiliz Gizli Servisi ajan\u0131n\u0131n 1899 y\u0131l\u0131ndan ba\u015flayarak 1911 y\u0131l\u0131na kadar, bir\u00e7ok kez Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nda gezi ve ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar yapt\u0131. Yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ara\u015ft\u0131rma ve gezilere ait bilgilerin bir k\u0131sm\u0131 kendi ad\u0131na olu\u015fturulan ar\u015fivde a\u00e7\u0131kland\u0131. Ar\u015fiv, Gertrude Bell’in yaz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131, mektuplar\u0131n\u0131 ve \u00e7ekti\u011fi foto\u011fraflar\u0131 i\u00e7ermektedir. \u0130lgi duyanlar http:\/\/www.gerty.ncl.ac.uk<\/a> sitesine bakabilir.<\/p>\n
Bu sitedeki ar\u015fivin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, Gertrude Bell’in gezi notlar\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7eren bilgiler ayr\u0131ca, 1911’de yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Amurath to Amurath <\/strong>(Murat’tan Murat’a) adl\u0131 eserinde yer almaktad\u0131r. Bu kitab\u0131n 289-361 sayfalar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Z\u00e2kh\u00f4 To Diy\u00e2rbekr – Diy\u00e2rbekr To Konia<\/strong> (Zaho’dan Diyarbak\u0131r’a – Diyarbak\u0131r’dan Konya’ya) gezi g\u00fczergah\u0131nda kaleme ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 yaz\u0131 ve \u00e7ekti\u011fi foto\u011fraflar bulunmaktad\u0131r. \u0130ngilizce olan kitab\u0131n tamam\u0131 361 sayfad\u0131r.<\/p>\n Gertrude Bell, Ergani’de 1909 y\u0131l\u0131nda bulunmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n \u00d6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki haftalar k\u0131smet olursa Gertrude Bell hakk\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131klay\u0131c\u0131 bir bilginin yan\u0131nda, anne ve babas\u0131na Diyarbak\u0131r’dan yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 mektuplar\u0131n T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u00e7evrilerini sizlerle payla\u015fmay\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. Bu foto\u011frafa bak\u0131p da h\u00fcz\u00fcnlenmemek elde mi?<\/p>\n ***Kilise hakk\u0131nda da bilgi vermek istiyorum:<\/p>\n Meryem Ana Kilisesi, Z\u00fclk\u00fcf Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n zirvesinin do\u011fusunda, Dicle’ye bakan b\u00fcy\u00fck kayan\u0131n \u00fczerinde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Ne zaman yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 tam bilinmese de, Ermeni Rahip \u011eugas \u0130nciciyan kilise ile ilgili yine de baz\u0131 bilgiler vermektedir. Kilise, Ergani’den bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bulutlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda kartal yuvas\u0131 gibi heybetli durmaktad\u0131r: Meryem Ana Kilisesi isminden olacak ki, Z\u00fclk\u00fcf da\u011f\u0131n\u0131n di\u011fer ad\u0131 Meryem Ana Da\u011f\u0131 (\u00c7iyay\u00e9 Meryeman\u00e9)’d\u0131r.<\/p>\n Zirvedeki kilise, zaman\u0131nda Ergani’de bulunan b\u00fcy\u00fck manast\u0131r\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131yd\u0131. Zaman\u0131nda muhte\u015fem bir yap\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. \u0130badethaneleri ve e\u011fitim k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda misafirhaneleri, yemekhaneleri, f\u0131r\u0131nlar\u0131, ah\u0131rlar\u0131 olan b\u00fcy\u00fck bir manast\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. K\u0131sacas\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir mabetmi\u015f; mimari ve kullan\u0131lan malzeme y\u00f6n\u00fcnden tarih\u00ee bir \u015fahesermi\u015f. Bu kilisenin duvarlar\u0131n\u0131n zaman\u0131nda m\u00fckemmel \u00e7inilerle kapl\u0131 oldu\u011fu s\u00f6ylenmektedir. 1960’l\u0131 y\u0131llarda bile duvarlarda cini kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 bulunmaktayd\u0131. Kilisenin Piran’a (Dicle’ye) bakan taraf\u0131nda merdivenlerle inilen derin ve b\u00fcy\u00fck su mahzenleri varm\u0131\u015f. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir odaya benzeyen bu mahzen, kemerlerle ikiye b\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f. Bunun sonunda ayn\u0131 bi\u00e7imde, fakat kemersiz kar deposu varm\u0131\u015f; s\u0131val\u0131, m\u00fckemmel bir oda bi\u00e7imindeymi\u015f. Bunlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda kilise harabelerinin ortas\u0131nda yine derin ve kavisli, e\u011firi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z \u015fekilde bir sarn\u0131\u00e7 daha varm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n Kiliseyle ilgili elimize ula\u015fan en detayl\u0131 bilgi daha \u00f6nce de de\u011findi\u011fim gibi \u011eugas \u0130nciciyan’\u0131n eski Ermenice olarak yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 A\u015fkharakrutyun, \u00c7orits Masants A\u015fkharhi (D\u00fcnya Co\u011frafyas\u0131) adl\u0131 kitab\u0131nda bulunmaktad\u0131r. \u00a0\u0130lgili b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u00e7evrisini aktar\u0131yorum: “Yal\u00e7\u0131n Asdvadzadzin: Yukarda zikredilen da\u011f\u0131n tepesindeki manast\u0131r. Y\u00fcksekli\u011fi nedeniyle yaz\u0131n\u0131m\u0131zda bu adla an\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kilisesi Asdvadzadzin [Aziz Meryem] ad\u0131na Hz. \u0130sa’n\u0131n talebelerinden Tateos ad\u0131na kurulmu\u015ftur. Fakat 14. c\u00fc y\u00fczy\u0131lda Rahip Na\u011fa\u015f M\u0131g\u0131rd\u0131\u00e7 buran\u0131n virane olu\u015funu g\u00f6rerek burada rahip yeti\u015ftirmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.\/Daha sonra y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor, daha sonra tekrar yap\u0131l\u0131yor vs.\/ Manast\u0131r\u0131n kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde bir yaz\u0131t vard\u0131r. Bu da buran\u0131n bir kutsal mekan oldu\u011funu belgeler. Kutsal ekme\u011fin eda edili\u015f yerinin bulundu\u011fu b\u00f6l\u00fcmde \u00e7ok eskilerden kalma bir Hz. Meryem resmi vard\u0131r. Bu bir \u00f6rnektir. Bu resim ziyaret konusudur. Hatta Ar\u011f\u0131nimaden k\u00f6y\u00fcnden Rum ziyaret\u00e7iler de ailece gelip adaklar adarlar. Bu resim 17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Johhannes rahibin Lehistandaki [Polanya’daki] taktis edili\u015finin resmidir. Ar\u011f\u0131nili rahip 17. Y\u00fczy\u0131lda Polonya’dan beraberinde getirmi\u015ftir bunu. Manast\u0131r\u0131n temeli 1663’te, Ye\u011fiazar Gato\u011figos taraf\u0131ndan hen\u00fcz katolikosul taht\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kmadan konulmu\u015f, kilise ise daha \u00f6nceden varm\u0131\u015f. Dini \u00f6nder Pa\u011fe\u015fli [Bitlisli] Nurdinyan Aprahman zaman\u0131nda (mezar\u0131 kilisenin kap\u0131s\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcndedir) manast\u0131r\u0131n f\u0131r\u0131n\u0131, mutfa\u011f\u0131 ve kileri yand\u0131. Daha sonra, onun \u00f6\u011frencisi rahip Garabed, Sultan Mustafa zaman\u0131nda bunlar\u0131 yeniden yapt\u0131rd\u0131. Bu manast\u0131r Diyarbak\u0131r Patiriklinin devam\u0131yd\u0131, daha sonra manast\u0131r Diyarbak\u0131r Patrikli\u011finden ayr\u0131ld\u0131. Eskiden bu manast\u0131r Diyarbak\u0131r dini \u00f6nderinin merkeziymi\u015f, \u00f6zelliklede yazlar\u0131.” <\/em><\/p>\n 1612 y\u0131l\u0131nda Ergani’ye gelen Ermeni Seyyah T\u0131b\u0131r Simeon da gezi notlar\u0131nda; “\u015eehrin en \u00fcst kesiminde, Y\u00fcce Meryem Ana ad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan karg\u0131r ve kubbeli b\u00fcy\u00fck bir kilise vard\u0131. Da\u011f\u0131n ete\u011finde bulunan zengin k\u00f6yde de ayr\u0131ca di\u011fer bir kilise varsa da, yukar\u0131daki kilisenin havari binas\u0131 ve mucize yaratan pek kutsal bir tap\u0131nak oldu\u011fu rivayet ediliyordu”<\/em> diyerek, Meryem Ana Kilise’si hakk\u0131nda bilgi vermektedir. \u00a0Bug\u00fcn, bu kilise i\u00e7ler ac\u0131s\u0131 bir durumdad\u0131r. Kar\u015f\u0131 dinin, “\u00f6teki”nin, g\u00e2vurun ibadethanesi oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in sahiplenmeme; \u00f6l\u00fc ve mezar soyucu define avc\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n tahribat\u0131, tarih bilincinin yoksunlu\u011fu, ilgisizlik, h\u00fcmanist de\u011ferlerin olmay\u0131\u015f\u0131; tamir ve onar\u0131m yap\u0131lmay\u0131\u015f\u0131; kar, ya\u011fmur, don ve r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131 konulmaz y\u0131prat\u0131c\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 nedenleriyle bir ta\u015f y\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 haline gelmi\u015ftir. \u0130\u00e7ten i\u00e7e, buna sevinenler bile oldu\u011fundan hi\u00e7 ku\u015fku duymamaktay\u0131m. \u00a0Ergani Belediyesi’nin yay\u0131nlar\u0131nda ve Ergani \u00fczerine yaz\u0131lan kitaplarda, yaz\u0131larda Meryem Ana Kilisesi’nin 360 odal\u0131 oldu\u011fu hep yaz\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Kilisenin 360 odal\u0131 oldu\u011funu ben hi\u00e7bir kaynakta g\u00f6remedim. 360 odal\u0131 olma olay\u0131n\u0131n nereden \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 da bilemiyorum, ama yine de iyi ki kilisenin b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcyle \u00f6v\u00fcn\u00fcyoruz diyorum: Ya y\u0131kma veya y\u0131k\u0131lmas\u0131na seyirci kalmam\u0131zla \u00f6v\u00fcnseydik!?. Geldiklerinde, gece Meryem Ana Kilisesi’nde kal\u0131rlard\u0131. Gece sabahlara kadar y\u0131k\u0131k kilisenin etraf\u0131nda mum yak\u0131p ibadet ederlerdi. Ellerinde mum d\u00f6nerlerdi. G\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn parlak oldu\u011fu geceler, \u00dc\u00e7evlerde evimizden, Ergani’den bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kilisenin etraf\u0131nda, g\u00f6kteki y\u0131ld\u0131zlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, da\u011f\u0131n zirvesinde y\u0131ld\u0131zla\u015fm\u0131\u015f yanan ve hareket eden \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131, y\u0131ld\u0131zlar\u0131n alt\u0131nda da\u011f\u0131n tepesinde \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n dans ettiklerini g\u00f6r\u00fcrd\u00fck, ama dualar\u0131n sesini duymazd\u0131k. Sadece, \u00e7ok yava\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n hareket ettiklerini g\u00f6r\u00fcrd\u00fck. \u00a0Kilise etraf\u0131nda d\u00f6nen o insanlar\u0131n akrabalar\u0131 \u015fimdi acaba nerede? \u00a0Eski Ergani’de, Ergani Z\u00fclk\u00fcf Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n (Makam Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n) ete\u011finde iken, Ermeniler ve M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar birlikte ya\u015f\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f. Aile b\u00fcy\u00fcklerimiz b\u00f6yle anlat\u0131rlard\u0131. Ermeni n\u00fcfusu M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar kadar olmasa da, yine de olduk\u00e7a fazlaym\u0131\u015f. Yukar\u0131 \u015fehirde, yani Z\u00fclk\u00fcf (Meryem Ana) Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n ete\u011findeki Ergani’de iki mahalle varm\u0131\u015f: A\u015fa\u011f\u0131 Mahalle<\/em> , Yukar\u0131 Mahalle <\/em>. Ermenilerin \u00e7ok az\u0131 Yukar\u0131 Mahalle’nin do\u011fu taraf\u0131nda, \u00e7o\u011fu ise, A\u015fa\u011f\u0131 Mahalle’nin bat\u0131 taraf\u0131nda ve yer yerde kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k oturuyorlarm\u0131\u015f. Ama en \u00e7ok Zukar Efendinin Bah\u00e7esi<\/em> ‘nin alt\u0131nda Kara\u00e7ortan<\/em> ‘\u0131n yan\u0131nda, sadece Ermeniler otururmu\u015f. Ermeni k\u00f6yleri veya k\u00f6ylerde Ermeniler var m\u0131yd\u0131, o konuda aile b\u00fcy\u00fcklerimin bir \u015feyler anlatt\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 hi\u00e7 hat\u0131rlam\u0131yorum. Ama Yavuz Selim Kanunn\u00e2meleri <\/strong>‘nden olan Ergani Sanca\u011f\u0131 Kanunn\u00e2mesi<\/strong>‘nde, Ergani’deki 14 adet Ermeni k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fcn ismi, isim isim verilmektedir. Ergani denilince sembolle\u015fen \u00fc\u00e7 \u015fey ak\u0131la gelirdi: Z\u00fclk\u00fcf Peygamberin Makam\u0131, Meryem Ana Kilisesi ve Dicle K\u00f6y Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc. \u00a0T\u00fcrkiye genelinde, K\u00f6y Enstit\u00fclerini kapatt\u0131k. Meryem Ana Kilisesini y\u0131kt\u0131k veya y\u0131k\u0131m\u0131na seyirci kald\u0131k. \u015eimdi geriye bir tek elimizde Z\u00fclk\u00fcf Peygamber’in Makam\u0131 kald\u0131. \u0130n\u015fallah Makam’\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na bir \u015fey gelmez! (Bir \u015fey olmaz demeyin; 1926’daki y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlay\u0131n!) \u00a0Kilise benim gen\u00e7lik d\u00f6nemimde, Z\u00fclk\u00fcf Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n tam zirvesinde harabe olmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n yine de bir azamet ve ihti\u015famla dururdu. Ergani’nin neresinden bak\u0131l\u0131rsa bak\u0131ls\u0131n, o kayaba\u015f\u0131na konmu\u015f bir kartal gibi da\u011f\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda t\u00fcm ihti\u015fam\u0131 ile g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcrd\u00fc. Ben harabe halini \u00e7ok gezdim. Duvarlar\u0131nda yer yer mozaikler, freskler k\u0131r\u0131k d\u00f6k\u00fck de olsa vard\u0131. Duvarlar ayaktayd\u0131. \u015eimdi bir ta\u015f y\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131.
\nGertrude Bell’in \u00e7ekti\u011fi Meryem Ana Kilisesi’nin foto\u011fraf g\u00f6r\u00fcyorsunuz. Foto\u011fraf alt\u0131ndaki a\u00e7\u0131klay\u0131c\u0131 bilgilere bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, foto\u011fraf\u0131n Ocak 1909 tarihinde Gertrude Bell taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7ekildi\u011fi, kilisenin sapasa\u011flam ayakta oldu\u011fu, avlusunda iki at\u0131n ba\u011fl\u0131 oldu\u011fu, kilisenin yap\u0131 bak\u0131m\u0131ndan da durumunun “iyi” oldu\u011fu belirtilmekte. Zaten foto\u011frafa bir g\u00f6z att\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, kilisenin ne kadar iyi bir durumda oldu\u011funu g\u00f6rmekteyiz.<\/p>\n
\nVe yine Ergani Belediyesi’nin eski e\u015fekli \u00e7\u00f6p\u00e7\u00fcs\u00fc Be\u015fikta\u015fl\u0131 K\u0131tm\u0131r Ali (Dolu)’nin Meryem Ana Kilisesi’nde \u00e7ocukken seyislik\/\u00e7obanl\u0131k yapm\u0131\u015f insanlardan biri oldu\u011fu s\u00f6ylenmektedir.
\n*** Eskiden, \u00e7ok de\u011fil, benim \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumda, daha do\u011frusu 1960’l\u0131 y\u0131llarda, Z\u00fclk\u00fcf Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n tepesinde bulunan Meryem Ana Kilisesi’ni de\u011fi\u015fik yerlerden gruplar halinde gelen Ermenilerce ziyaret edildi\u011fini \u00e7ok iyi hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. \u00a0Bahar\u0131n ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131nda, Paskalya Bayram\u0131<\/em> ‘n\u0131n 40. g\u00fcn\u00fc \u0130sa Mesih<\/em>‘in g\u00f6\u011fe y\u00fckseli\u015fi yortusu olan Hampartsum<\/em> ‘da, -bizim Sultan Newroz<\/em>‘da , H\u0131drellez<\/em>‘de oldu\u011fu gibi -insanlar ba\u011fl\u0131k, bah\u00e7elik ve \u00e7ay\u0131rlara gidilerek \u015fenlikler d\u00fczenler, \u015fark\u0131lar s\u00f6yler, oyunlar oynar… ve b\u00f6lgenin say\u0131l\u0131 kutsal yerlerinden biri oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in, ayn\u0131 zamanda ya\u015fl\u0131s\u0131ndan gencine, kad\u0131nl\u0131-erkekli ama \u00e7o\u011funlukla kad\u0131nlar, k\u0131zlar ve \u00e7ocuklar, gruplar halinde Meryem Ana Kilisesi’ne gelirlerdi.
\nHampartsum’da, ziyaret i\u00e7in gelenler, bizim akrabalar\u0131n bah\u00e7elerinde a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda ya da Minto Nenenin Suyu<\/em>‘nda, ceviz a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda gruplar halinde otururlard\u0131. Annelerimizle ve biz \u00e7ocuklarla hemen \u00e7ok s\u0131cak ili\u015fkiye girerdiler. Biz \u00e7ocuklara \u00e7\u00f6rek, b\u00f6rek, kurabiye, kuru pasta, peksimet vs. verirlerdi. Annelerimiz ve akrabalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n han\u0131mlar\u0131 onlara ceviz, pestil, yo\u011furt, ye\u015fil so\u011fan, maydanoz gibi yiyecekler verirlerdi.<\/p>\n
\n***
\nEskiden Meryem Ana Kilisesi, Ergani’nin simgelerinden biriydi.<\/p>\n
\n\u0130nsano\u011flunun ac\u0131mad\u0131\u011f\u0131na do\u011fa ac\u0131r m\u0131?<\/p>\n