{"id":87865,"date":"2026-11-11T05:51:11","date_gmt":"2026-11-11T10:51:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=87865"},"modified":"2026-11-11T05:51:11","modified_gmt":"2026-11-11T10:51:11","slug":"gatnabur","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=87865","title":{"rendered":"Gatnabur"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

E\u011fin\u2019de kaynam\u0131\u015f s\u00fcte ekmek do\u011franan yeme\u011fe gatnabur denirken pirin\u00e7li, \u015fekerli olan gatnov diye kaydedilmi\u015f. Harput\u2019ta ise pirin\u00e7 s\u00fctle pi\u015fiyor; kimi \u015fekerli, kimi tuzlu seviyor. Bizim evin tart\u0131\u015fmas\u0131z tatl\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fka evlerde tuzlu olabilece\u011fini de kabul edece\u011fiz art\u0131k.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Garine B. Seropyan <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kadim familya ge\u00e7mi\u015fimin ve k\u0131sa tarihimin en tatl\u0131 an\u0131s\u0131d\u0131r gatnabur. Zihnimdeki foto\u011fraf \u015fu: Ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi sonras\u0131, koyu turuncu \u00e7i\u00e7ekli \u00f6rt\u00fclerle korunmu\u015f \u00e7ok senelik salon koltuklar\u0131nda, ayaklar\u0131n\u0131 deri patchwork k\u0131l\u0131fl\u0131, \u015fimdilerin vintage\u2019\u0131 bir pufa uzatm\u0131\u015f, televizyonuna bakarken gatnaburunu ka\u015f\u0131klayan Sarkis Seropyan. \u00dc\u00e7l\u00fc koltu\u011fun en sa\u011f\u0131nda, sehpan\u0131n yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda kurulmu\u015f kendisi. Koltu\u011fun di\u011fer ucunda, hen\u00fcz demansla tan\u0131\u015fmam\u0131\u015f Roza Yayam, bacaklar\u0131n\u0131 \u201cmazl\u0131\u201d battaniyesiyle \u00f6rtm\u00fc\u015f, t\u00fcm rutinini tamamlam\u0131\u015f, oturuyor televizyon kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda. (Mazl\u0131: Sa\u00e7l\u0131\/k\u0131ll\u0131. Bej renkli k\u0131r\u00e7\u0131ll\u0131 bir battaniyemiz vard\u0131, isim takm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k kendisine.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sonra Kontes Mani\u015fag, d\u00f6nemin gen\u00e7 k\u0131z\u0131 elbette, bir tepsiye dizilmi\u015f, \u00fczerlerine tar\u00e7\u0131nla isimlerin Ermenice ba\u015f harfleri i\u015flenmi\u015f gatnaburlar\u0131 getiriyor. Tabii ki her birinin alt\u0131nda bir tabak ve yan\u0131nda pe\u00e7etesi var. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc o bir Mani\u015fag.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gatnabur diyorum \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc dilim nedense s\u00fctlaca gitmiyor, gidemiyor bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc. Anadilden ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z, sanki bir insan ismi, evin bir ferdi. \u0130sterseniz ailece Japonya\u2019ya gidin, onun ad\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 gatnabur. K\u0131vam\u0131yla, kondu\u011fu k\u00e2seyle, \u00fczerine serpilen tar\u00e7\u0131nla, hatta buzdolab\u0131nda \u00e7ok yer tutmas\u0131n diye k\u00e2selerin iki kat dizilmesini sa\u011flayan, \u00f6zel yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f cam aksesuar\u0131yla\u2026 Yani demem o ki, k\u0131rk y\u0131ll\u0131k Kani, olur mu Yani?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSuland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, s\u00fctlendirilmi\u015f sulu s\u00fct…<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u00fctla\u00e7, s\u00fctliya\u00e7; e, bu da bir ihtiya\u00e7!\u201d<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gat, yani s\u00fct; abur, yani \u00e7orba. Birle\u015fince gatnabur: S\u00fct \u00e7orbas\u0131. Bizim evdeki kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131ysa pirin\u00e7le k\u0131vamlanm\u0131\u015f s\u00fcte \u015feker kat\u0131larak yap\u0131lan tatl\u0131. Vanilya, portakal veya limon kabu\u011fu bir yere kadar kabul\u00fcm. Ama k\u0131vam\u0131 kolayca ba\u011flamak i\u00e7in ni\u015fasta, un, hatta yumurta sar\u0131s\u0131 eklemek, benim pek de \u201cmutfak ahlak\u0131ma\u201d uymuyor. Benim i\u00e7in gatnabur pi\u015firmek bir seremonidir, bir rit\u00fceldir. Aceleye gelmez. Emek ister. Zaman ister.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"S\u00fctla\u00e7\"Gastronomik ve toplumsal tarihe k\u0131sac\u0131k bakacak olursak -bu sefer mikro toplumumuzda kalaca\u011f\u0131m, saray ve Osmanl\u0131 k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 sizlere b\u0131rak\u0131yorum- gatnaburun bir de Hampartsum hat\u0131ras\u0131 var. Paskalya\u2019dan k\u0131rk g\u00fcn sonra kutlanan bu yortuda \u00e7i\u00e7ekler toplan\u0131r, vicag, yani niyet \u00e7ekilir; baz\u0131 y\u00f6relerde sabah erkenden s\u00fctl\u00fc a\u015f pi\u015firilip en az yedi eve da\u011f\u0131t\u0131l\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130stanbul\u2019dan da bir hat\u0131ra: Ye\u015filk\u00f6y\u2019de kilise ayininden sonra Ren\u00e9 Park\u2019ta piknik \u00f6rt\u00fcleri serilip \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n toplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7i\u00e7eklerden yap\u0131lan ta\u00e7lar, dabgotslar ve sofradan eksilmeyen gatnabur anlat\u0131l\u0131yor. Benim zihnimde salon koltu\u011funda duran k\u00e2se, bir ba\u015fkas\u0131n\u0131n hat\u0131ras\u0131nda deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki piknik \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fcnde… Yemek ve an\u0131 enteresan bir birle\u015fim vesselam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yaln\u0131zca bayramda de\u011fil; Sirarpi S\u00f6z\u00fcdo\u011fru\u2019nun G\u00fcm\u00fc\u015fhac\u0131k\u00f6y hat\u0131ralar\u0131nda, d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ertesi a\u00e7ki luys, yani g\u00f6z ayd\u0131n\u0131 ziyaretinde di\u011fer tatl\u0131larla birlikte damat evine de gidiyor gatnabur. Demek k\u00e2senin i\u015fi \u00e7ok: Bayram kutlayacak, g\u00f6z ayd\u0131nlatacak, kom\u015fuya u\u011frayacak. Kimbilir daha bilmedi\u011fimiz ne misyonlar\u0131 vard\u0131…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Her yerde ayn\u0131 k\u00e2seyi aramamak gerek tabii. E\u011fin\u2019de kaynam\u0131\u015f s\u00fcte ekmek do\u011franan yeme\u011fe gatnabur denirken pirin\u00e7li, \u015fekerli olan gatnov diye kaydedilmi\u015f. Harput\u2019ta ise pirin\u00e7 s\u00fctle pi\u015fiyor; kimi \u015fekerli, kimi tuzlu seviyor. Bizim evin tart\u0131\u015fmas\u0131z tatl\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fka evlerde tuzlu olabilece\u011fini de kabul edece\u011fiz art\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Di\u011fer mutfaklara da \u015f\u00f6yle bir selam verelim: T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de Hamsik\u00f6y s\u00fctlac\u0131, f\u0131r\u0131n s\u00fctla\u00e7; Yunan mutfa\u011f\u0131nda rizogalo\u2026 Hindistan\u2019dan Neena Bhardwaj\u2019\u0131n hik\u00e2yesi ise ayr\u0131ca ho\u015fuma gidiyor. O\u011flunun restoran\u0131ndaki a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar evlerini \u00f6zlemesin diye yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00fctl\u00fc pirin\u00e7 tatl\u0131s\u0131, sonunda restoran\u0131n men\u00fcs\u00fcne giriyor. Bizde koltukta ka\u015f\u0131klan\u0131yor, orada a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 doyuruyor; aile tariflerinin yolu belli olmuyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bu k\u0131sa tarih dersinden sonra gelelim benim gatnaburumun p\u00fcf noktalar\u0131na. Elbette bir deftere not edilmi\u015f \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcl\u00fc tarifim mevcut. Ama \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcy\u00fc bilmek ba\u015fka, tencerenin ba\u015f\u0131nda durmak ba\u015fka. Siz yine de hangisini istiyorsan\u0131z onu yap\u0131n can\u0131m; keyif, k\u00e2hya i\u015fi bu, kanunu yok, kural\u0131 yok.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130lk p\u00fcf noktam\u0131z malzeme se\u00e7imi. Ne derseniz deyin, bence tam ya\u011fl\u0131 s\u00fct ve ni\u015fastas\u0131n\u0131 g\u00fczelce salan pirin\u00e7, i\u015fin yar\u0131s\u0131ndan fazlas\u0131n\u0131 halleder. M\u00fcmk\u00fcnse \u00e7iftlikten al\u0131yorum ben s\u00fct\u00fcm\u00fc. Eskiden Ta\u015fhan\u2019da s\u00fct\u00e7\u00fc Aram vard\u0131; ilk senelerde el arabas\u0131nda taze s\u00fct satard\u0131, sonra d\u00fckk\u00e2n a\u00e7t\u0131. S\u00fct\u00fcn tad\u0131 m\u0131 de\u011fi\u015fti, biz mi de\u011fi\u015ftik, bilmiyorum. Sonra kutulara girdi s\u00fct\u2026 Neyse, ya\u011fl\u0131 s\u00fct, ni\u015fastal\u0131 pirin\u00e7.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ben k\u0131r\u0131k pirin\u00e7 tercih ediyorum. Arborio da g\u00fczel olur, zaten kendisi risotto pirinci ama onu gatnabura harcamaya pek k\u0131yam\u0131yorum. Pirinci uzun uzun y\u0131kay\u0131p ni\u015fastas\u0131ndan ar\u0131nd\u0131rm\u0131yorum. Siz dilerseniz y\u0131kay\u0131n tabii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bir sonraki t\u00fcyom, pirin\u00e7le s\u00fct\u00fc birlikte tencereye, tabiat\u0131yla ate\u015fe koyup dibini tutturmadan, kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rarak m\u0131\u011f\u0131l m\u0131\u011f\u0131l pi\u015firmek. Pirimiz, \u00fcstad\u0131m\u0131z, kuyri\u011fimiz Takuhi Tovmasyan\u2019\u0131n bir r\u00f6portaj\u0131ndan akl\u0131mda kalan irmik helvas\u0131yla pi\u015fmek -kavrulmak da olabilir, hafiza bazen hain olabiliyor- kavram\u0131, benim mutfa\u011f\u0131mda gatnaburla pi\u015fmektir bir nevi. S\u00fct \u0131s\u0131n\u0131p pirin\u00e7ler yumu\u015famaya, ni\u015fastalar\u0131n\u0131 salmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yor ya, gatnaburumuz da i\u015fte tam o andan itibaren kendini bulmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u015eekeri ben pirin\u00e7 iyice yumu\u015fay\u0131p s\u00fct koyula\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131ktan sonra ekliyorum. Sonras\u0131nda da kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmaya devam. Saatten ziyade ka\u015f\u0131\u011fa bak\u0131yorum: Ka\u015f\u0131k gatnaburun i\u00e7inde hafif bir iz b\u0131rakmaya ba\u015flad\u0131 m\u0131, tamamd\u0131r. So\u011furken de koyula\u015faca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 unutmay\u0131n; tencerede son k\u0131vam\u0131na getirmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131p ertesi g\u00fcn k\u00e2seden dilim \u00e7\u0131karmayal\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Velev ki dibi birazc\u0131k tuttu; yanmam\u0131\u015f, hafif\u00e7e k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f o k\u0131sm\u0131 k\u00e2selerin ortas\u0131na pay etmek de bana yaya yadig\u00e2r\u0131. Bu da benden son bir t\u00fcyo olsun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pirinci \u00f6nce suda pi\u015firip sonra s\u00fcte eklemek de bir usul. \u00dcstelik d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcn aksine, bu y\u00f6ntemde ayr\u0131ca ni\u015fasta kullanmak \u015fart de\u011filmi\u015f; aile ar\u015fivlerinde gayet ni\u015fastas\u0131z \u00f6rnekleri var. Demek ki insan kendi tenceresinin ba\u015f\u0131nda da yeni bir \u015fey \u00f6\u011frenebiliyor. Ben yine de ni\u015fastan\u0131z\u0131 haz\u0131rda bulundurun diye uyaray\u0131m da, pirincin inad\u0131 tutarsa…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gatnabur<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Malzemeler<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n