{"id":86931,"date":"2026-08-14T01:45:04","date_gmt":"2026-08-14T06:45:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86931"},"modified":"2026-08-14T01:45:04","modified_gmt":"2026-08-14T06:45:04","slug":"bir-sofranin-hafizasi-lakerda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86931","title":{"rendered":"Bir sofran\u0131n haf\u0131zas\u0131: Lakerda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Bizim mutfa\u011f\u0131n en eskilerinden, en lezizlerinden, en me\u015fakkatlilerinden biridir lakerda. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n se\u00e7iminden kesimine, mevsiminden tuzuna, beklemesinden sofraya geli\u015fine kadar her a\u015famas\u0131 ayr\u0131 zahmetlidir, her detay\u0131 ayr\u0131 \u00f6zen ister. Lakerda, babam\u0131n da en severek, en \u00f6zenerek ve en keyifle yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015feylerden biriydi. \u2018Denizden babam \u00e7\u0131ksa yerim\u2019 s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcn bir ad\u0131m sonras\u0131, benim i\u00e7in \u2018babam ne yapsa yerim\u2019di; elbette baban\u0131z\u0131 yemediyseniz.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Garine B. Seropyan<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Birka\u00e7 y\u0131l \u00f6nce, \u00e7ok sevdi\u011fim, de\u011ferli bir b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm, \u2018Garine, babana anlatt\u0131r\u0131p kaydediyor musun her \u015feyi?\u2019 diye sormu\u015ftu. O g\u00fcn bu soru \u00e7ok zoruma gitmi\u015fti. Sanki babam \u00f6lecek, an\u0131lar\u0131 da onunla birlikte kaybolacakm\u0131\u015f gibi\u2026 \u2018Daha gen\u00e7, akl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda; istedi\u011fimizde anlat\u0131r,\u2019 demek istedim, diyemedim. \u015eimdi elimde yaln\u0131zca birka\u00e7 ses kayd\u0131 ve dostlar\u0131n\u0131n biriktirdi\u011fi birka\u00e7 video kald\u0131. O y\u00fczden, babam\u0131n defalarca anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 lakerda usul\u00fcn\u00fc her hat\u0131rlay\u0131\u015f\u0131mda hem dama\u011f\u0131mda O\u2019nun lakerdas\u0131ndan kalan lezzete hem de i\u00e7imdeki kocaman eksikli\u011fe ba\u015fvuruyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Onun lakerda tarifi zihnimde hep ayn\u0131 c\u00fcmlelerle kald\u0131: Torikten yap\u0131lmal\u0131; k\u0131l\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131n ili\u011fi s\u00fcp\u00fcrge \u00e7\u00f6p\u00fcyle temizlenmeli; bal\u0131k, buzdolab\u0131nda buzlu suda bekletilmeli ve suyu g\u00fcn g\u00fcn de\u011fi\u015ftirilmeli. Lakerda demek benim i\u00e7in bu y\u00fczden babam demek. Sofra adab\u0131n\u0131 annemden, lakerda adab\u0131n\u0131 ise babamdan \u00f6\u011frendim. Onun sofras\u0131nda lakerda yaln\u0131zca bir meze de\u011fil, sabr\u0131n, \u00f6zenin ve misafire duyulan sayg\u0131n\u0131n i\u015faretiydi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Babam\u0131 kaybettikten sonra, lakerda sofrada hep bo\u011faz\u0131ma d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmlenen bir hat\u0131raya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. Bazen insan, en s\u0131radan g\u00f6r\u00fcnen \u015feylerde en b\u00fcy\u00fck yoklu\u011fu buluyor: masatla bilenmi\u015f b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n sesi, iri tuzun h\u0131\u015f\u0131rt\u0131s\u0131, buzdolab\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lan kavanoz, ince ince kesilen bir takoz\u2026 Yedi\u011fim her lakerda onun yoklu\u011funu hat\u0131rlatt\u0131. Ama zamanla ayn\u0131 lakerday\u0131 kurmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak, o hat\u0131ray\u0131 yaln\u0131zca ac\u0131yla de\u011fil, emekle de ta\u015f\u0131mama vesile oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gurbette lakerda kurmak<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

\u0130svi\u00e7re\u2019nin Almanya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131nda, deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndan uzak bir yerde lakerda kurmak ayr\u0131ca bir macera. \u00c7ipura da var, somon da, ton bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 da, k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7 da; fakat lakerdaya uygun torik ya da palamut bulmak her zaman m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Neyse ki palamut mevsiminde beni unutmayan bir T\u00fcrki\u015f Bakkalc\u0131m var. Bu ifadeyi bilerek kullan\u0131yorum; 1990\u2019lara ve M\u00fckremin Abi\u2019ye k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir selam olsun. 2017\u2019de kendine ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bal\u0131klar\u0131 bile bana verince, lakerda kurma niyetim ciddile\u015fti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sevgili b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm Sarkis Varbed\u2019in (\u00d6zg\u00fcn), Haldun Abi\u2019nin ve evimizin dire\u011fi Bo\u011fos\u2019un te\u015fvikleri ve yard\u0131mlar\u0131yla ilk denememi yapt\u0131m. Bal\u0131k vard\u0131, keskin b\u0131\u00e7ak vard\u0131, iri tuz vard\u0131; hatta Sarkis Usta\u2019n\u0131n bana \u00f6zel yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131, jilet gibi bir bal\u0131k b\u0131\u00e7a\u011f\u0131m bile\u2026 Ama lakerda yaln\u0131zca malzemeyle olmuyor: Sab\u0131r, dikkat ve el al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 istiyor. \u0130lk denememde tuzu c\u00f6mert\u00e7e ka\u00e7\u0131rd\u0131m; ortaya babam\u0131nki kadar zarif de\u011fil ama onunki kadar tuzlu bir lakerda \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 so\u011fanla dengelemeyi \u00f6\u011frenmek de i\u015fin k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck tesellilerinden biri oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Bir sonraki y\u0131l, 43\u201348 santimetre aras\u0131nda alt\u0131 bal\u0131kla, toplam yakla\u015f\u0131k yedi kiloluk yeni bir denemeye giri\u015fmi\u015ftim. Yak\u0131n g\u00f6zl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc takmadan k\u0131l\u00e7\u0131k ay\u0131klaman\u0131n art\u0131k pek ak\u0131ll\u0131ca olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 da o g\u00fcn kabul ettim. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 gere\u011finden fazla kurutmamak, salamuraya zaman\u0131nda almak, suyu ve tuzu ihmal etmemek\u2026 Lakerda, acele edenin de\u011fil, beklemeyi bilenin eme\u011fini \u00f6d\u00fcllendiriyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lakerda bir tariften \u00e7ok usuld\u00fcr<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Lakerdaya dair \u00f6\u011frendiklerimin bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc, Haldun Z. T\u00fczel\u2019in benimle payla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve yay\u0131mlamama, her mecrada da tepe tepe kullanmama izin verdi\u011fi \u201cBir Lakerda Hik\u00e2yesi\u201d yaz\u0131s\u0131na dayan\u0131yor. Onun anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ki\u015fisel hik\u00e2yeyi burada tekrarlam\u0131yor; y\u00f6nteme dair bilgileri kendi deneyimlerimle birlikte \u00f6zetliyorum. Yaz\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6zg\u00fcn metni i\u00e7in buray\u0131 <\/a>ziyaret edebilirsiniz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 se\u00e7mek ve takozu ay\u0131rmak<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

\u0130\u015f, bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n se\u00e7iminde ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Geleneksel usulde lakerdan\u0131n makbul\u00fc torikten yap\u0131l\u0131r; palamutla da yap\u0131labilir, fakat torik eti daha s\u0131k\u0131, ya\u011f\u0131 daha yerle\u015fik ve olgunla\u015fmaya daha elveri\u015flidir. Karadeniz\u2019den Bo\u011faz\u2019a inen, kas\u0131m ortas\u0131 ile aral\u0131k ortas\u0131 aras\u0131nda tutulan bal\u0131klar tercih edilir. So\u011fuk su ve ak\u0131nt\u0131yla m\u00fccadele eden bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n eti daha diri olur. Lodos sonras\u0131nda yakalanan bal\u0131ktan ka\u00e7\u0131nmak gerekir; eti gev\u015feyebilir, tad\u0131 da istenen dolgunlu\u011fu vermez. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n taze, ezilmemi\u015f ve zedelenmemi\u015f olmas\u0131 ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na \u00f6nemlidir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Torik, irili\u011fine g\u00f6re farkl\u0131 adlarla an\u0131l\u0131r; daha iri bal\u0131klara sivri ve pecuta denir. Lakerda i\u00e7in as\u0131l mesele isimden \u00e7ok, etin s\u0131k\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131, ya\u011f\u0131n\u0131n oturmu\u015flu\u011fu ve takoz kesmeye elveri\u015fli olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Ba\u015f alt\u0131, kar\u0131n ya da kuyru\u011fa yak\u0131n par\u00e7alar yerine \u2018bonfile\u2019 denen orta takozlar daha \u00e7ok tercih edilir. Yine de damak zevki ayr\u0131 bir konudur: Kimi yakaya yak\u0131n, daha ya\u011fl\u0131 k\u0131sm\u0131; kimi orta takozun dengeli etini sever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

K\u0131l\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131n iki kanal\u0131<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Temizlik a\u015famas\u0131 lakerdan\u0131n kaderini belirler. Bal\u0131k, keskin bir b\u0131\u00e7akla, m\u00fcmk\u00fcn oldu\u011funca az s\u0131k\u0131larak ve ezilmeden kesilmeli; h\u0131rpalanan bal\u0131k kararabilir, lezzet de kaybedebilir. Ba\u015f\u0131n arkas\u0131ndan kuyruk k\u0131sm\u0131na kadar, bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n irili\u011fine g\u00f6re \u00fc\u00e7 ya da d\u00f6rt takoz \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131l\u0131r. As\u0131l kritik nokta k\u0131l\u00e7\u0131kt\u0131r: \u0130\u00e7inde iki ayr\u0131 kanal bulunur ve her ikisindeki kan ile ili\u011fin tamamen temizlenmesi gerekir. Geleneksel y\u00f6ntemde bunun i\u00e7in Edirne s\u00fcp\u00fcrgesinin ince \u00e7\u00f6pleri kullan\u0131l\u0131r. \u0130\u015f yar\u0131m b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131rsa bal\u0131kta koku kalabilir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Takozlar ard\u0131ndan buz gibi suya yat\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r; su birka\u00e7 kez de\u011fi\u015ftirilerek kan\u0131n iyice akmas\u0131 sa\u011flan\u0131r. Bizim evdeki anlat\u0131da da bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 buzdolab\u0131nda, buzlu suda bekletmek ve suyunu her g\u00fcn de\u011fi\u015ftirmek esast\u0131. S\u00fcre, bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n irili\u011fine ve kullan\u0131lan usule g\u00f6re de\u011fi\u015fse de ama\u00e7 ayn\u0131: Eti gev\u015fetmeden kan\u0131 temizlemek. Son sudan \u00e7\u0131kan takozlar dikey bi\u00e7imde s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcr, temiz bir bezle \u00f6rt\u00fcl\u00fcr ve tuzlamadan \u00f6nce \u00fczerlerindeki nem iyice al\u0131n\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tuz, salamura ve beklemek<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Tuzlama i\u00e7in iri, katk\u0131s\u0131z yemek ya da deniz tuzu kullan\u0131l\u0131r. Kavanozun taban\u0131 tuzlan\u0131r; takozlar her yan\u0131 tuzla kaplanarak kavanoza s\u0131k\u0131ca yerle\u015ftirilir. Aralara defne yapra\u011f\u0131 konabilir. Kavanozu hafif\u00e7e yere vurdurmak, tuzun bo\u015fluklara yerle\u015fmesini sa\u011flar; \u00fcstte tahta ve a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k kullanmak da geleneksel y\u00f6ntemlerden biridir. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 su d\u00fczenli olarak d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcr. Tuz yaln\u0131zca bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 korumaz; dokusunu s\u0131k\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r ve olgunla\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131n temelini haz\u0131rlar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Baz\u0131 usullerde kuru tuzdan sonra salamuraya ge\u00e7ilir. Haldun T\u00fczel\u2019in verdi\u011fi \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc, yakla\u015f\u0131k iki litre suya 175 gram tuzla ba\u015flayan ve sonras\u0131nda tuzu biraz azalt\u0131lan bir salamurad\u0131r; su da belirli aral\u0131klarla yenilenir. Benim denemelerimde palamut takozlar\u0131 \u00f6nce d\u00f6rt g\u00fcn buzlu suda bekledi, ard\u0131ndan \u00fc\u00e7 g\u00fcn iri tuzda dinlendi ve sonra salamuraya al\u0131nd\u0131. Ortak ilke a\u00e7\u0131k: Lakerda s\u0131cakl\u0131k de\u011fi\u015fiminden korunmal\u0131; suyu, tuzu ve kokusu her g\u00fcn g\u00f6zden ge\u00e7irilmelidir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Saklamak ve sofraya getirmek<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Olgunla\u015fma tamamland\u0131\u011f\u0131nda takozlar salamuradan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131l\u0131r, tuzsuz suda k\u0131sa s\u00fcre dinlendirilir, s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcr ve tek tek kurulan\u0131r. O g\u00fcn yenilecekler ince dilimlenir. Kalanlar\u0131 ben hava almadan vakumlay\u0131p buzlu\u011fa emanet etmeyi tercih ederim. Ya\u011fda saklamak gerekti\u011finde ise b\u00fcy\u00fck ustam Sarkis Varbed\u2019in uyar\u0131s\u0131yla, tad\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftirmemesi i\u00e7in aromas\u0131 s\u0131f\u0131ra yak\u0131n ve asiditesi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck ay\u00e7i\u00e7ek ya\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kullan\u0131r\u0131m; aroma verici veya baharat eklemem. Serviste ise lakerda i\u00e7in zeytinya\u011f\u0131, ince do\u011franm\u0131\u015f k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 so\u011fan ve iyi ekmek yeterlidir. Fazla malzeme, bu zahmetli i\u015fin \u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6lgelememeli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bu bilgilerin hepsi, lakerday\u0131 \u2018yap\u0131lacak bir meze\u2019den \u00e7ok, zaman\u0131 ve ritmi olan bir mutfak i\u015fi olarak g\u00f6rmeyi \u00f6\u011fretiyor. Mevsim, bal\u0131k, kesim, k\u0131l\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131n temizli\u011fi, so\u011fuk su, tuz, bekleme ve servis\u2026 Her halka bir sonrakinin lezzetini belirliyor. Lakerdaya g\u00f6sterilen \u00f6zen, asl\u0131nda sofraya ve sofray\u0131 payla\u015facak insanlara, yani misafirlerimize g\u00f6sterilen \u00f6zenden ba\u015fka bir \u015fey de\u011fil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Benim i\u00e7in bu usul\u00fcn en k\u0131ymetli taraf\u0131, mutfakta tekrar tekrar kurulan ba\u011f. Babam\u0131n anlatt\u0131klar\u0131yla, ustalardan \u00f6\u011frendiklerimle ve kendi acemili\u011fimle ayn\u0131 tahtan\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda duruyorum. Keserken bir kenara ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m derilerde, k\u0131l\u00e7\u0131klarda ve ziyan olmas\u0131n diye tad\u0131na bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck bal\u0131k par\u00e7alar\u0131nda bile \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumun sofralar\u0131ndan bir iz buluyorum. Ev sahibinin misafir i\u00e7in haz\u0131rlanan nimete \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcl\u00fc yakla\u015fmas\u0131 gerekti\u011fini de o sofralardan \u00f6\u011frendim; lakerda yaln\u0131zca nas\u0131l yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fil, nas\u0131l ikram edildi\u011fini de hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00d6l\u00fcp gidenlerin, geride kalanlar\u0131 bir yerden g\u00f6r\u00fcp yapt\u0131klar\u0131yla gurur duyabileceklerine inanmak istiyorum. Belki en sevdiklerimiz bir masa etraf\u0131nda, g\u00fcle oynaya \u00e2lemlere dalm\u0131\u015f, ara ara bize de bak\u0131yorlard\u0131r. E\u011fer \u00f6yleyse \u2014ki umar\u0131m \u00f6yledir\u2014 babam\u0131n bu kez benim kurdu\u011fum sofraya uzaktan bak\u0131p g\u00fcl\u00fcmsedi\u011fini hayal ediyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Efendim, \u00e7ok sevgili pirimiz Takuhi Tovmasyan\u2019a selamla, sofralar\u0131n\u0131z \u015fen; rahmetli Krikor Koluk\u0131sa\u2019y\u0131 anarak, dost meclisleriniz eksiksiz olsun. Lakerdan\u0131zda tat, rak\u0131n\u0131zda da g\u00f6nl\u00fc ferahlatacak kadar muhabbet eksik olmas\u0131n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.agos.com.tr\/tr\/yazi\/bir-sofranin-hafizasi-lakerda-41483<\/em><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bizim mutfa\u011f\u0131n en eskilerinden, en lezizlerinden, en me\u015fakkatlilerinden biridir lakerda. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n se\u00e7iminden kesimine, mevsiminden tuzuna, beklemesinden sofraya geli\u015fine kadar her a\u015famas\u0131 ayr\u0131 zahmetlidir, her detay\u0131 ayr\u0131 \u00f6zen ister. Lakerda, babam\u0131n da en severek, en \u00f6zenerek ve en keyifle yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015feylerden biriydi. \u2018Denizden babam \u00e7\u0131ksa yerim\u2019 s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcn bir ad\u0131m sonras\u0131, benim i\u00e7in \u2018babam ne yapsa yerim\u2019di; […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":86932,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-86931","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-mutfak"],"yoast_head":"\nBir sofran\u0131n haf\u0131zas\u0131: Lakerda - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86931\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bir sofran\u0131n haf\u0131zas\u0131: Lakerda - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Bizim mutfa\u011f\u0131n en eskilerinden, en lezizlerinden, en me\u015fakkatlilerinden biridir lakerda. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n se\u00e7iminden kesimine, mevsiminden tuzuna, beklemesinden sofraya geli\u015fine kadar her a\u015famas\u0131 ayr\u0131 zahmetlidir, her detay\u0131 ayr\u0131 \u00f6zen ister. 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