{"id":86237,"date":"2026-05-12T02:05:14","date_gmt":"2026-05-12T07:05:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86237"},"modified":"2026-05-12T02:05:14","modified_gmt":"2026-05-12T07:05:14","slug":"yagmurun-actigi-kapi-vazelon-manastiri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86237","title":{"rendered":"Ya\u011fmurun a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 kap\u0131: Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

G\u00fcven Baykan<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n derin ormanlar\u0131 aras\u0131nda, zaman\u0131n ve do\u011fan\u0131n kalbine emanet edilmi\u015f kadim bir s\u0131\u011f\u0131nak. Ma\u00e7ka\u2019da bilinen g\u00fczerg\u00e2hlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc Vazelon\u2019a d\u00f6nenler i\u00e7in ta\u015f\u0131n i\u00e7inde birikmi\u015f bir zaman ve orman\u0131n derin ye\u015fili var. Baz\u0131 yerleri anlamak i\u00e7in duvarlar\u0131na bakmak yetmez; i\u00e7inde oturup o kadim sessizli\u011fi dinlemek gerekir.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foto\u011fraf: Ali Fatih Ak\u00e7ay<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n eksilmi\u015f ta\u015flar\u0131ndan sonra yol bu kez bizi, Vazelon (Yahya) Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc. Trabzon\u2019un Ma\u00e7ka il\u00e7esinde, Kiremitli k\u00f6y\u00fc s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde ve Galyan Vadisi\u2019nde yer alan bu eski yap\u0131, o g\u00fcn bize yaln\u0131zca tarihini de\u011fil, ya\u011fmurun alt\u0131nda a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 kap\u0131y\u0131 da g\u00f6sterdi. D\u0131\u015far\u0131da sa\u011fanak, i\u00e7eride ta\u015f duvarlar, elimizde \u00e7ay\u2026 Ve bir pencerenin \u00f6n\u00fcnde as\u0131l\u0131 kalan tek soru: Bu ormana bakan ka\u00e7\u0131nc\u0131 ki\u015fiydik?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bir \u00f6nceki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019yd\u0131. Eksilmi\u015f ta\u015flar\u0131n, suskun duvarlar\u0131n, haf\u0131zaya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f bir yap\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcndeydik\u2026 Yolculuk elbette orada bitmedi. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n da\u011flar\u0131, bir s\u0131rr\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterirse \u00f6tekini geride saklar. Yol bizi Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131na \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rd\u0131. E\u011fer Ku\u015ftul k\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir hat\u0131raysa, Vazelon yaral\u0131 ama dimdik duran bir g\u00f6vde gibidir. Ayn\u0131 co\u011frafyan\u0131n i\u00e7indedir ama insanda b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 duygu ba\u015fkad\u0131r. Biri daha \u00e7ok eksikli\u011fin diliyle konu\u015fur, \u00f6teki varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve i\u00e7indeki vakar\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 ta\u015f\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

ORMANIN \u0130\u00c7\u0130NE DO\u011eRU<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na ilerledik\u00e7e orman koyula\u015f\u0131r. \u00c7am a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n aras\u0131ndan s\u00fcz\u00fclen \u0131\u015f\u0131k, yolun \u00fcst\u00fcnde par\u00e7al\u0131 g\u00f6lgeler b\u0131rak\u0131r. Ta\u015f, a\u011fa\u00e7, yosun, toprak, nem, ya\u011fmur kokusu birbirine kar\u0131\u015f\u0131r. Sanki do\u011fa bu yap\u0131y\u0131 \u00e7oktan kalbinin i\u00e7ine alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na yakla\u015f\u0131rken insanda hafif bir \u00fcrperti de ba\u015flar. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc orman baz\u0131 yerleri yaln\u0131z \u00f6rtmez, onlar\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fct\u00fcr. Her \u015feyi oldu\u011fundan daha eski, daha derin, daha i\u00e7li g\u00f6sterir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Manast\u0131r\u2019\u0131n k\u00f6kleri eski zamanlara uzan\u0131r. Anadolu\u2019nun en eski manast\u0131rlar\u0131ndan biri say\u0131l\u0131r. \u0130lk yap\u0131n\u0131n bir ma\u011faran\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde kuruldu\u011fu sonra y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca b\u00fcy\u00fcy\u00fcp de\u011fi\u015fti\u011fi anlat\u0131l\u0131r. Bug\u00fcn g\u00f6r\u00fclen kilise ile ke\u015fi\u015f odalar\u0131n\u0131n daha ge\u00e7 d\u00f6nemlere ait oldu\u011fu, kuzeydeki \u015fapelde eski fresklerin izlerinin bulundu\u011fu bilinir. B\u00fct\u00fcn bunlar Vazelon\u2019u y\u00fczy\u0131llar\u0131n \u00fcst \u00fcste b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 katmanl\u0131 bir belle\u011fe d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcr.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

YA\u011eMURLA GELEN SI\u011eINAK<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ve tam o s\u0131rada ya\u011fmur bize e\u015flik etti\u2026 Karadeniz\u2019de ya\u011fmur bazen bir hava olay\u0131 de\u011fil, yol arkada\u015f\u0131d\u0131r. Siz nereye giderseniz o da oraya gelir. Manast\u0131ra vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda da \u00f6yle oldu. \u00d6nce ince ince ba\u015flad\u0131, \u00e7o\u011fald\u0131. Sonra y\u0131llar \u00f6ncesinden bizi tan\u0131yormu\u015f gibi manast\u0131r\u0131n ta\u015flar\u0131na vurdu. O an anlad\u0131k ki Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131 yaln\u0131zca g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in geldi\u011fimiz bir yer de\u011fil, o g\u00fcn bize kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7an bir s\u0131\u011f\u0131nakt\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O an\u0131 bug\u00fcn bile b\u00fcy\u00fck bir s\u0131cakl\u0131kla hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Termostan bardaklar\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7ay d\u00f6kt\u00fck. Ya\u011fmur d\u0131\u015far\u0131da kendi \u015fark\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyordu. Biz, y\u0131llar\u0131n i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7ip gelmi\u015f o ta\u015f yap\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde, bir pencerenin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na oturduk. \u00d6n\u00fcm\u00fczde Galyan Vadisi\u2019nin derin ye\u015fili, Karadeniz\u2019in o koyu orman dokusu vard\u0131. A\u011fa\u00e7lar ya\u011fmurla daha koyu, daha diri, daha canl\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyordu. \u00c7ay\u0131n buhar\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcze vuruyor, ya\u011fmurun kokusu i\u00e7eri doluyor, ta\u015f duvarlar bizi d\u0131\u015far\u0131daki havadan de\u011fil, biraz da zamandan koruyordu sanki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PENCEREDEK\u0130 SORU<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130nsan baz\u0131 yerleri uzaktan g\u00fczel bulur, baz\u0131 yerleri ise ancak i\u00e7inde bir s\u00fcre kal\u0131nca anlar. Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131 o g\u00fcn benim i\u00e7in tam da b\u00f6yle oldu. Ta\u015flar\u0131na bakarak de\u011fil, i\u00e7inde oturarak; duvarlar\u0131n\u0131 seyrederek de\u011fil, ya\u011fmurdan ka\u00e7\u0131p ona s\u0131\u011f\u0131narak anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m bir yer\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sonra birbirimize bakt\u0131k. Hi\u00e7 unutmam o bak\u0131\u015f\u0131. Neredeyse ayn\u0131 anda ayn\u0131 soruyu sorduk: Bu pencereden bu g\u00fczelim ormana bakan ka\u00e7\u0131nc\u0131 ki\u015fiydik acaba?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O soru, orada, ya\u011fmurla \u00e7ay\u0131n aras\u0131nda as\u0131l\u0131 kald\u0131. Ve bence o yolculu\u011fun en derin yerine de orada yerle\u015fti. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bazen bir gezinin \u00f6z\u00fc, g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcz \u015feyde de\u011fil, sordu\u011funuz sorudad\u0131r. Bizden \u00f6nce bu pencereden kimler bakt\u0131? Ka\u00e7 ki\u015fi ya\u011fmura bizim gibi tutuldu? Ka\u00e7 ki\u015fi elindeki s\u0131cak bardakla d\u00fcnyadan biraz olsun uzakla\u015ft\u0131? Ka\u00e7 ki\u015fi tam o noktada hayat\u0131n ne kadar ge\u00e7ici, do\u011fan\u0131n ne kadar kal\u0131c\u0131 oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7indeki o k\u0131sa mola, haf\u0131zamda bir gezi ayr\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00e7ok daha fazlas\u0131 olarak kald\u0131. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bazen bir yap\u0131y\u0131 ger\u00e7ekten anlamak i\u00e7in onun duvarlar\u0131na bakmak yetmiyor; bir s\u00fcre onun i\u00e7inde oturmak gerekiyor. O yap\u0131 art\u0131k size d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan g\u00f6r\u00fcnen bir tarih par\u00e7as\u0131 olmaktan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor, ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131za dokunan bir \u015feye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130\u00e7eride otururken ta\u015flar\u0131n y\u0131llar\u0131 nas\u0131l biriktirdi\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm. O duvarlar neler g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc kim bilir. Ka\u00e7 k\u0131\u015f ge\u00e7mi\u015fti \u00fcstlerinden, ka\u00e7 bahar gelmi\u015fti, ka\u00e7 ya\u011fmur inmi\u015fti pencerelerine. Orada yaln\u0131zca birka\u00e7 saat kald\u0131k belki ama o yap\u0131, y\u00fczy\u0131llar\u0131n i\u00e7inden bak\u0131yordu bize. \u0130nsan b\u00f6yle yerlerde kendi \u00f6mr\u00fcn\u00fc daha ba\u015fka \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcyor. Ko\u015fu\u015fturdu\u011fumuz g\u00fcnlerin, aceleyle harcad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z zamanlar\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na, sab\u0131rla beklemi\u015f ta\u015flar \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. O zaman anl\u0131yorsunuz: Biz ge\u00e7iyoruz ama baz\u0131 yerler kal\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

YOLUN BIRAKTI\u011eI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 elbette ayr\u0131 bir yere koyar\u0131m. Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 da \u00f6yle. Ama Vazelon bana ikisinden ba\u015fka bir \u015fey daha s\u00f6yledi: S\u0131\u011f\u0131nman\u0131n da bir haf\u0131zas\u0131 oldu\u011funu\u2026 Bir yap\u0131n\u0131n yaln\u0131z ge\u00e7mi\u015fte de\u011fil, bug\u00fcn de insana kap\u0131 a\u00e7abildi\u011fini\u2026 Bir ya\u011fmur an\u0131n\u0131n bazen tarih bilgisinden daha kal\u0131c\u0131 olabildi\u011fini\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130nsan bazen bir manzaray\u0131 de\u011fil, bir an\u0131 \u00f6m\u00fcr boyu ta\u015f\u0131r. Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019ndan biraz b\u00f6yle d\u00f6nd\u00fcm. Orada g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm \u015fey yaln\u0131z ta\u015f de\u011fildi. Ta\u015f\u0131n i\u00e7inde birikmi\u015f zaman, ya\u011fmurun alt\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fcyen sessizlik ve dostlukla payla\u015f\u0131lan bir and\u0131. Belki de bu y\u00fczden, Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 anlat\u0131rken yaln\u0131z tarih anlatm\u0131\u015f olmuyorum. Biraz memleketi, biraz dostlu\u011fu, biraz da insan\u0131n baz\u0131 yerlere neden yeniden d\u00f6nmek istedi\u011fini anlat\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Siz yolunuzu bir g\u00fcn Ma\u00e7ka\u2019ya d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr\u00fcrseniz ve bilinen g\u00fczerg\u00e2hlar\u0131n biraz d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kmak isterseniz, y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcz\u00fc Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na \u00e7evirin. \u00c7amlar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan y\u00fckselen o eski yap\u0131ya bak\u0131n. Ya\u011fmur varsa daha da iyi. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc baz\u0131 yerler g\u00fcne\u015fte g\u00fczel g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcr; baz\u0131lar\u0131 ise ya\u011fmurla birlikte ger\u00e7ek sesini bulur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ve belki siz de bir g\u00fcn o pencerede durup ayn\u0131 soruyu sorars\u0131n\u0131z: Bu ormana bakan ka\u00e7\u0131nc\u0131 ki\u015fiyim? O zaman anlars\u0131n\u0131z ki baz\u0131 yolculuklar yaln\u0131z gidilip gelinmez; insan\u0131n i\u00e7inde kal\u0131r. Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131 da benim i\u00e7in tam olarak b\u00f6yledir: Trabzon\u2019un, da\u011flara, ya\u011fmura ve zamana emanet etti\u011fi kadim bir s\u0131\u011f\u0131nak gibi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Cumhuriyet Gazetesi<\/em><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

G\u00fcven Baykan Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n derin ormanlar\u0131 aras\u0131nda, zaman\u0131n ve do\u011fan\u0131n kalbine emanet edilmi\u015f kadim bir s\u0131\u011f\u0131nak. Ma\u00e7ka\u2019da bilinen g\u00fczerg\u00e2hlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc Vazelon\u2019a d\u00f6nenler i\u00e7in ta\u015f\u0131n i\u00e7inde birikmi\u015f bir zaman ve orman\u0131n derin ye\u015fili var. Baz\u0131 yerleri anlamak i\u00e7in duvarlar\u0131na bakmak yetmez; i\u00e7inde oturup o kadim sessizli\u011fi dinlemek gerekir. Foto\u011fraf: Ali Fatih Ak\u00e7ay Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n eksilmi\u015f […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":86238,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-86237","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler"],"yoast_head":"\nYa\u011fmurun a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 kap\u0131: Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131 - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86237\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ya\u011fmurun a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 kap\u0131: Vazelon Manast\u0131r\u0131 - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"G\u00fcven Baykan Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n derin ormanlar\u0131 aras\u0131nda, zaman\u0131n ve do\u011fan\u0131n kalbine emanet edilmi\u015f kadim bir s\u0131\u011f\u0131nak. 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