{"id":86164,"date":"2026-04-27T03:19:02","date_gmt":"2026-04-27T08:19:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86164"},"modified":"2026-04-27T03:19:02","modified_gmt":"2026-04-27T08:19:02","slug":"sumelanin-golgesinde-kalan-ilk-sir-kustul-manastiri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86164","title":{"rendered":"S\u00fcmela\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde kalan ilk s\u0131r: Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Hepimiz S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 biliriz. Oysa Trabzon\u2019un da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n, derelerinin ve ormanlar\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131nda ba\u015fka hik\u00e2yeleri de vard\u0131r. Y\u0131llar \u00f6nce \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m yolculukta rastlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n saklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 o eski s\u0131rlardan birisi, Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019yd\u0131. Eksilmi\u015fti, y\u0131pranm\u0131\u015ft\u0131, da\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ama susmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

G\u00fcven Baykan<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trabzon denince, Ma\u00e7ka denince \u00e7o\u011fumuzun zihninde \u00f6nce S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131 belirir. Sarp kayalar\u0131n g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcne tutunmu\u015f o g\u00f6rkemli yap\u0131, y\u0131llard\u0131r hem belle\u011fimizde hem de foto\u011fraflarda ya\u015fayan b\u00fcy\u00fck bir simgedir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ancak Karadeniz\u2019in as\u0131l huyu, en derin g\u00fczelliklerini bir bak\u0131\u015fta ele vermemektir. Bir y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6sterirse, \u00f6tekini da\u011flar\u0131n ard\u0131na saklar. Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019yla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmam biraz b\u00f6yle oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Y\u0131llar \u00f6nce Ahmet Bozo\u011flu ile d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz o yolda, S\u00fcmela\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde kendi sessizli\u011fiyle \u00e7ok daha derinden konu\u015fan bir yap\u0131ya do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sabah\u0131n ilk saatlerinde d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck yola. Da\u011flar\u0131n omzunda ince bir pus dola\u015f\u0131yor, dereler kendi tela\u015f\u0131yla ak\u0131yor, a\u011fa\u00e7lar r\u00fczg\u00e2rla konu\u015fuyordu. O saatlerde Karadeniz\u2019in ye\u015fili yaln\u0131zca bir renk olmaktan \u00e7\u0131kar insan\u0131n i\u00e7ine i\u015fleyen bir duyguya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr. Bazen uzak bir ev g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcr, sonra sisin i\u00e7inde kaybolur. Suyun sesi duyulur ama kendisi g\u00f6r\u00fcnmez.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bir patika, nereye vard\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6ylemeden sizi \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131r. Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n i\u00e7lerine do\u011fru ilerledik\u00e7e yol yaln\u0131zca uzam\u0131yor, derinle\u015fiyordu sanki. Her viraj\u0131n ard\u0131nda ba\u015fka bir g\u00f6lge, ba\u015fka bir ses, ba\u015fka bir \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131 vard\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131, Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n Esiro\u011flu beldesinde \u015eim\u015firli s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde bulunuyor. Oraya varmak, yaln\u0131zca bir yere ula\u015fmak de\u011fil, co\u011frafyan\u0131n i\u00e7ine do\u011fru a\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r girmek gibi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vadinin \u00fcst\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131kan yollar, daralan ge\u00e7itler, ta\u015fl\u0131 k\u0131vr\u0131mlar insan\u0131 yava\u015flat\u0131r. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc baz\u0131 yap\u0131lar kendilerini hemen g\u00f6stermez. Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 da kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za bir anda dikilen bir yap\u0131dan \u00e7ok, ad\u0131m ad\u0131m beliren bir iz gibiydi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

TA\u015eLARIN BELLE\u011e\u0130<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u015eim\u015firli\u2019ye ilerledik\u00e7e, eski ad\u0131 Gregorius Peristera olan Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131n y\u00fczy\u0131llar\u0131n i\u00e7inden bug\u00fcne seslendi\u011fini hissedersiniz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

K\u00f6kleri sekizinci y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ortalar\u0131na uzanan bu yap\u0131, zaman i\u00e7inde ya\u011fmalar, yang\u0131nlar, terk edili\u015fler ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f yeniden kurulmu\u015f, yara alm\u0131\u015f, yeniden eksilmi\u015f. Geriye daha \u00e7ok temeller, ta\u015f izleri, k\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcn haf\u0131zas\u0131 kalm\u0131\u015f. Belki de insan\u0131 en \u00e7ok bu \u00e7arp\u0131yor: Kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zda b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcyle ayakta duran bir g\u00f6rkem de\u011fil, y\u00fczy\u0131llar\u0131n i\u00e7inden g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fckle bug\u00fcne ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f bir ses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Onu ilk g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm andan akl\u0131mda g\u00f6rkemden \u00e7ok h\u00fcz\u00fcn kald\u0131 ama bu, insan\u0131 ezen bir h\u00fcz\u00fcn de\u011fildi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Daha \u00e7ok zaman\u0131n b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 iz kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda duyulan derin bir sars\u0131nt\u0131yd\u0131. Kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda kendini sergileyen, tamamlanm\u0131\u015f bir yap\u0131 yoktu. Eksilmi\u015f, zamana kar\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f ama oradan t\u00fcm\u00fcyle \u00e7ekilmemi\u015f bir manzara vard\u0131. B\u00f6yle yerlerde hayal g\u00fcc\u00fc de devreye giriyor. O ta\u015flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda kimlerin y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc, hangi dualar\u0131n y\u00fckseldi\u011fini, hangi ayak seslerinin avludan ge\u00e7ti\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorsunuz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

GE\u00c7M\u0130\u015e\u0130N BAKI\u015eI<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bir zamanlar i\u00e7 avlusunun iki yan\u0131na s\u0131ralanm\u0131\u015f iki ve \u00fc\u00e7 katl\u0131 odalar varm\u0131\u015f. Kuzeydekilerin misafirler, g\u00fcneydekilerin ke\u015fi\u015fler i\u00e7in kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6ylenir. Ortada ha\u00e7 planl\u0131 bir kilise yer al\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bat\u0131ya uzanan dehlizler ise \u015fimdi suskun ve yorgun. Bunlar\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcnce Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 yaln\u0131zca ta\u015f bir yap\u0131 olmaktan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor; i\u00e7ine hayat sinmi\u015f, sonra o hayat \u00e7ekilmi\u015f ama izi orada kalm\u0131\u015f bir mek\u00e2na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. Belki de bu y\u00fczden, Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde dururken insan yaln\u0131z ge\u00e7mi\u015fe bakm\u0131yor, ge\u00e7mi\u015fin de kendisine bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hissediyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vadiden y\u00fckselen dere sesi, yap\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7evresindeki sessizli\u011fe ba\u015fka bir derinlik veriyordu. Karadeniz\u2019de baz\u0131 \u015feyler g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeden de insana dokunur. Bir yamac\u0131n ucunda durup a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, yaln\u0131zca bir vadiye de\u011fil, sanki zaman\u0131n i\u00e7ine bak\u0131yormu\u015fum gibi geldi bana. O anda i\u00e7imden \u015fu ge\u00e7ti:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Baz\u0131 yerler y\u0131k\u0131lmaz, yaln\u0131zca ba\u015fka bir dile ge\u00e7er. Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 da ilk g\u00fcnk\u00fc haliyle orada de\u011fildi belki ama bir y\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131dan \u00e7ok bir haf\u0131za gibiydi. Eksilmi\u015fti ama susmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bozo\u011flu ile uzun uzun bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Bazen insan\u0131n yan\u0131nda iyi bir yol arkada\u015f\u0131 olunca ayn\u0131 yere bakmak, ayn\u0131 duyguyu payla\u015fmak yetiyor. Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde de b\u00f6yle oldu. S\u00f6zc\u00fckler biraz geriye \u00e7ekildi, ta\u015flar \u00f6ne ge\u00e7ti. O anlarda dostluk da ba\u015fka bir anlam kazan\u0131yor. Bazen ayn\u0131 sessizli\u011fi payla\u015fmak en uzun konu\u015fmadan daha sahici oluyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00f6n\u00fcp geriye bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 bana yaln\u0131zca bir manast\u0131r\u0131 de\u011fil, belle\u011fin nas\u0131l ayakta kald\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 da hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor. Tam de\u011filse de var olan, suskun ama \u00e7ekilmeyen, yaral\u0131 ama unutulmayan bir belle\u011fi\u2026 Belki de bu y\u00fczden Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde akl\u0131mda s\u0131rf ta\u015flar kalm\u0131yor. Yol kal\u0131yor, dere sesi kal\u0131yor, sabah sisi kal\u0131yor. Ve insan\u0131n baz\u0131 yerlere yaln\u0131zca gitmedi\u011fi, onlara biraz da i\u00e7inden y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc duygusu kal\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 bana Karadeniz\u2019in ba\u015fka bir y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6sterdi:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Daha az bilinen, daha az anlat\u0131lan ama daha \u00e7ok hissedilen y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc. Baz\u0131 yap\u0131lar b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckleriyle etkiler insan\u0131; baz\u0131lar\u0131 ise eksildikleri halde i\u00e7imizde daha uzun kal\u0131r. Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 benim i\u00e7in i\u015fte tam da b\u00f6yle bir yerdi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yolun sonunda bazen insan eve bir yap\u0131 de\u011fil, bir duygu ta\u015f\u0131r. Ben Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019ndan biraz \u00f6yle d\u00f6nd\u00fcm. Sanki o y\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inden yaln\u0131z ge\u00e7mi\u015f de\u011fil, memleketin derin sesi de y\u00fckseliyordu. Ve insan o sesi bir kez duydu mu kolay kolay unutam\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Cumhuriyet Gazetesi<\/em><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hepimiz S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 biliriz. Oysa Trabzon\u2019un da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n, derelerinin ve ormanlar\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131nda ba\u015fka hik\u00e2yeleri de vard\u0131r. Y\u0131llar \u00f6nce \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m yolculukta rastlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n saklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 o eski s\u0131rlardan birisi, Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019yd\u0131. Eksilmi\u015fti, y\u0131pranm\u0131\u015ft\u0131, da\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ama susmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. G\u00fcven Baykan Trabzon denince, Ma\u00e7ka denince \u00e7o\u011fumuzun zihninde \u00f6nce S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131 belirir. Sarp kayalar\u0131n g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcne tutunmu\u015f o g\u00f6rkemli yap\u0131, y\u0131llard\u0131r hem belle\u011fimizde […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":86165,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-86164","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler"],"yoast_head":"\nS\u00fcmela\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde kalan ilk s\u0131r: Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=86164\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"S\u00fcmela\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde kalan ilk s\u0131r: Ku\u015ftul Manast\u0131r\u0131 - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Hepimiz S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 biliriz. 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