![\"\"](\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Beyoglu-360x203.webp\")
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\u0130stanbul\u2019un en hareketli ve en g\u00f6zde \u00e7ekim merkezlerinden Beyo\u011flu bir s\u00fcredir eski \u0131\u015f\u0131lt\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 yitirmi\u015f halde. Son 15-20 y\u0131lda y\u00fckselen rant odakl\u0131 \u015fehircilik k\u00fclt\u00fcrel hayat\u0131 en \u00e7ok zedeleyen \u015fey \u015f\u00fcphesiz. K\u00fclt\u00fcrel zenginli\u011fini turistik t\u00fcketime feda eden semtin r\u00f6ntgenini \u00e7ektik.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Emrah Koluk\u0131sa<\/strong><\/p>\n Ya\u015f\u0131 tutanlar hat\u0131rlayacakt\u0131r, 90\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llardan itibaren Beyo\u011flu, yani \u0130stiklal Caddesi ve yak\u0131n \u00e7evresi (Taksim, S\u0131raselviler Caddesi, Tarlaba\u015f\u0131, Talimane, T\u00fcnel, Y\u00fcksekkald\u0131r\u0131m ve say\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 bilemeyece\u011fimiz denli \u00e7ok irili ufakl\u0131 ara\/arka sokaklar) yeni bir \u00e7ehreye b\u00fcr\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel hayat\u0131n merkezi haline gelmi\u015fti. Bir kez daha. Zira bir zamanlar Grand Rue de Pera ya da Cadde-i Kebir gibi isimlerle an\u0131lan bu b\u00f6lge \u201cBeyo\u011flu: Yap\u0131lar, mekanlar, insanlar (1831-1923)\u201d ba\u015fl\u0131kl\u0131 kitab\u0131n yazar\u0131 Turan Ak\u0131nc\u0131\u2019n\u0131n tespitiyle neredeyse 190 y\u0131ld\u0131r \u015fehrin en \u00f6nemli \u00e7ekim merkezi oldu. Zaman zaman \u00f6nemini yitirdi, g\u00f6zden d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc belki (1970\u2019lerden sonra \u00f6rne\u011fin) ama yine de \u0130stanbul\u2019un k\u00fclt\u00fcrel zenginli\u011finin en belirgin sembollerinden biri olageldi.<\/p>\n 90\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llardaki d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fc benim gibi \u00e7ok iyi hat\u0131rlayanlar (yani gen\u00e7li\u011fi bu semtte ge\u00e7enler) bir yandan sinemalar\u0131, tiyatrolar\u0131, kitap\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 \u00f6te yandan renkli gece hayat\u0131yla Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun nas\u0131l h\u0131zla hareketlendi\u011fini de an\u0131msayacakt\u0131r. Hemen her gece farkl\u0131 bir mek\u00e2nda vakit ge\u00e7irilir, hatta hafta sonlar\u0131 mek\u00e2nlar s\u0131raya bindirilirdi. \u015e\u00fcphesiz ki 19\u2019uncu y\u00fczy\u0131lda yabanc\u0131 \u00fclkelerin sefaretlerinin in\u015fa edilmesiyle kurulan Beyo\u011flu, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin Bat\u0131\u2019ya d\u00f6n\u00fck y\u00fcz\u00fcyd\u00fc ve uzun y\u0131llar da Bat\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn etkisi hissedildi bu sokaklarda. Ancak son 10 y\u0131ld\u0131r \u00f6zellikle Do\u011fu\u2019dan gelen g\u00f6\u00e7 dalgas\u0131 ve her y\u0131l say\u0131lar\u0131 katlanarak artan Arap turistlerin varl\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u0130stanbul\u2019un b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131nda oldu\u011fu gibi Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda da (hatta belki en \u00e7ok burada) yeni bir d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcme yol a\u00e7t\u0131; Bat\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc yerini Do\u011fu k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne b\u0131rakt\u0131 ve belki de bu ikisinin bir arada yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 (kayna\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 m\u0131 demeli, ayr\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 m\u0131, siz karar verin) kaotik bir k\u00fclt\u00fcrel manzaray\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze koydu.<\/p>\n \u2018\u2018Neler de\u011fi\u015fti?\u2019\u2019, \u2018\u2018Neler ayn\u0131 kald\u0131?\u2019\u2019 diye soracak olursak manzara biraz daha netle\u015fir belki. Bir kere baz\u0131 \u015feylerin hi\u00e7 de\u011fi\u015fmedi\u011fini s\u00f6yleyelim. Konsolosluk binalar\u0131 ve arazileri b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde oldu\u011fu gibi duruyor. Belki de \u0130stiklal Caddesi\u2019nin en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fans\u0131 bu yap\u0131 ve arazilere dokunulam\u0131yor olu\u015fu. Ayr\u0131ca Galatasaray Lisesi ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere okul binalar\u0131, kilise, sinagoglar ve A\u011fa Camii gibi yap\u0131lar h\u00e2l\u00e2 yerli yerinde. Ger\u00e7i ibadethaneler d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki binalar genellikle kamuya kapal\u0131 yerler ama yine de orada olduklar\u0131n\u0131 bilmek bile g\u00fczel. Baz\u0131 tarihi binalar\u0131n ise AVM\u2019ye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclmesi ve son 15-20 y\u0131lda y\u00fckselen rant odakl\u0131 \u015fehircili\u011fin buraya da s\u0131\u00e7ramas\u0131 Beyo\u011flu\u2019ndaki k\u00fclt\u00fcrel hayat\u0131 en \u00e7ok zedeleyen \u015fey oldu \u015f\u00fcphesiz. Hayat\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 buralarda ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f, romanlar\u0131nda s\u0131k s\u0131k bu sokaklar\u0131 i\u015flemi\u015f yazar Ahmet \u00dcmit, \u201cBeyo\u011flu da bug\u00fcnk\u00fc siyasal \u0130slamc\u0131 h\u00fck\u00fcmetin uygulamalar\u0131ndan nasibini ald\u0131\u201d diyor ve ekliyor: \u201c\u00d6zellikle buran\u0131n bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi olmas\u0131 her zaman onlar\u0131 rahats\u0131z etti. Kendi ya\u015fam tarzlar\u0131na uymad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in i\u00e7kili lokantalardan, tiyatrolardan, kitaplardan rahats\u0131zl\u0131k duydular ve bunu bir \u015fekilde dile getirdiler. \u00d6zellikle de Gezi Olaylar\u0131 bir k\u0131r\u0131lma noktas\u0131yd\u0131. Gezi sonras\u0131nda da yanl\u0131\u015f g\u00f6\u00e7 politikalar\u0131 sonucu Arap n\u00fcfus yo\u011fun olarak buraya gelmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Sadece sava\u015ftan ka\u00e7an Suriyeliler de\u011fil zengin ve yat\u0131r\u0131m yapmak isteyen Araplar\u0131n da geli\u015fiyle Arap k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc gitgide yayg\u0131nla\u015ft\u0131. Yine de bunun planl\u0131 oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fcyorum.\u201d<\/p>\n G\u00dcZEL \u015eEYLER DE OLUYOR<\/strong><\/p>\n 2019\u2019da \u0130stanbul B\u00fcy\u00fck\u015fehir Belediyesi\u2019nin el de\u011fi\u015ftirmesinin ard\u0131ndan Beyo\u011flu \u00f6zelinde baz\u0131 umut verici geli\u015fmeler oldu\u011funu g\u00f6zlemliyoruz. \u00d6rne\u011fin Casa Botter\u2019in bir restorasyonla k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi olarak yeniden kamuya kazand\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131, benzer bir at\u0131l\u0131m\u0131n Metro Han i\u00e7in de uygulanmas\u0131 ve Muammer Karaca Tiyatrosu\u2019nun yeniden in\u015fas\u0131 gibi g\u00fczellikler var mesela. Ayr\u0131ca Atlas Sinemas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n restorasyonu ve \u00a0Sinema M\u00fczesi\u2019nin a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131 da yine art\u0131 hanesine yazd\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131zdan. Galatasaray\u2019dan T\u00fcnel\u2019e inen b\u00f6l\u00fcmde daha \u00e7ok sanat merkezlerinin hakimiyet kurdu\u011funu g\u00f6rmek de yine insan\u0131n i\u00e7ini ferahlat\u0131yor. Yap\u0131 Kredi\u2019nin yeni binas\u0131ndan ba\u015flayarak, Salt Beyo\u011flu, Anamed, Me\u015fher, Pera M\u00fczesi, Borusan M\u00fczik Evi, Salon \u0130KSV ve in\u015fas\u0131 son a\u015famalar\u0131na gelmi\u015f \u0130\u015f Bankas\u0131 M\u00fczesi gibi sergi ve konser alanlar\u0131 Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda h\u00e2l\u00e2 k\u00fclt\u00fcrel bir a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131n var oldu\u011funu g\u00f6steriyor.\u00a0\u201cBuras\u0131 kozmopolit ve kaotik bir yer ve g\u00fczelli\u011fi de bundan geliyor\u201d diyen yazar Ahmet \u00dcmit de bu g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fc destekliyor ve \u015f\u00f6yle s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor: \u201cBeyo\u011flu eski canl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 koruyor ve bu canl\u0131l\u0131k asl\u0131nda sa\u011fl\u0131kl\u0131 bir kalp gibi, yani \u015fimdilik s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 olsa bile o sa\u011fl\u0131kl\u0131 kalbin gereken kan\u0131 bu merkeze pompalayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun yine o eski kimli\u011fine kavu\u015faca\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131yorum, yeter ki iktidar de\u011fi\u015fsin.\u201d<\/p>\n ***<\/p>\n S\u0130NEMA VE T\u0130YATROLAR<\/strong><\/p>\n 90\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llarda, \u0130stanbul K\u00fclt\u00fcr Sanat Vakf\u0131\u2019n\u0131n (\u0130KSV) Beyo\u011flu\u2019na ta\u015f\u0131nmas\u0131 ve film festivalinin geni\u015f kitlelerce takip edilmeye ba\u015flanmas\u0131yla birlikte \u0130stiklal Caddesi\u2019nde \u00e7ok say\u0131da sinema salonu seyirci \u00e7ekmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. D\u00fcnya ve Fita\u015f sinemalar\u0131 (bir ara sadece bu binada 10 civar\u0131nda salon vard\u0131), Lale, Alkazar, Sinepop, Saray, Atlas, R\u00fcya, Beyo\u011flu ve tabii ki \u0130stanbul\u2019un en \u00f6nemli sembollerinden Emek sinemalar\u0131 90\u2019lar denince akla ilk gelen salonlar. \u015eimdiyse bunlardan sadece Atlas ve Beyo\u011flu ya\u015f\u0131yor ve Cine Majestik, Ye\u015fil\u00e7am gibi ara sokaklara s\u0131k\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ok az say\u0131da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck mek\u00e2n izleyici toplamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Sinemalar\u0131n AVM\u2019lere s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel hareketlili\u011fin de Beyo\u011flu\u2019ndan uzakla\u015fmas\u0131na sebep oldu. \u00d6te yandan Taksim\u2019deki Ven\u00fcs, Atlas binas\u0131ndaki K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Sahne, uzun y\u0131llard\u0131r at\u0131l duran Elhamra ve \u015fu s\u0131ralar yeniden in\u015fas\u0131na ba\u015flanan Muammer Karaca gibi tiyatro binalar\u0131 ise art\u0131k sadece hat\u0131rlayanlar\u0131n zihinlerinde ya\u015f\u0131yor. Ferhan \u015eensoy\u2019un vefat\u0131ndan sonra iyiden iyiye zor duruma d\u00fc\u015fen Ses Tiyatrosu\u2019nun ak\u0131beti de d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc. Keza ayn\u0131 binadaki \u00e7ok daha k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ama kullan\u0131\u015fl\u0131 Maya Sahnesi ve bir d\u00f6nem Tarlaba\u015f\u0131\u2019nda \u00f6nemli bir \u00fcretim merkezi olan Manast\u0131r binas\u0131 da \u00f6zlemle and\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131zdan. Yine de Kumbarac\u0131 50, Sahne Pulcherie gibi alternatif mek\u00e2nlar h\u00e2l\u00e2 var ve belki say\u0131lar\u0131 da artar diye umuyoruz. Bu arada yeri gelmi\u015fken s\u00f6yleyelim, K\u00fclt\u00fcr A\u015e\u2019nin y\u00f6neticisi Volkan Aslan bir y\u0131l i\u00e7inde Muammer Karaca Tiyatrosu\u2019nun yeniden hizmete a\u00e7\u0131laca\u011f\u0131n\u0131n m\u00fcjdesini verdi, hi\u00e7 olmazsa gelece\u011fe dair bir umut \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 olsun.<\/p>\n GECE HAYATI<\/strong><\/p>\n Beyo\u011flu demek elbette renkli ve hareketli bir gece hayat\u0131 da demek. 90\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llardan \u00f6rnek verecek olursak Hayal Kahvesi\u2019nin fitilini ate\u015fledi\u011fi ve canl\u0131 rock m\u00fczik a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 gece hayat\u0131n\u0131n \u0130stanbul gen\u00e7li\u011fini Beyo\u011flu\u2019na \u00e7ekti\u011fi d\u00f6nemdeki Kemanc\u0131, Dulcinea, Peyote, Roxy, Godet, Mojo, Jazz Stop, Line gibi \u00e7ok say\u0131da bar art\u0131k ya yok ya da ad\u0131 ve\/veya i\u00e7eri\u011fi \u00e7ok de\u011fi\u015fti. Nevizade\u2019deki meyhaneler h\u00e2l\u00e2 yerinde belki ama eski tad\u0131 var m\u0131 oras\u0131 tart\u0131\u015f\u0131l\u0131r. Asmal\u0131 Mescit taraf\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 biraz daha kendini koruyor gibi ve Me\u015frutiyet Caddesi\u2019nde de bir hareketlilik var, buradaki mek\u00e2nlar\u0131n fiyatlar\u0131 biraz el yaksa da\u2026 Nizam, Lades, Hac\u0131 Abdullah gibi markalar duruyor belki ama Sultanahmet K\u00f6ftecisi \u00e7oktand\u0131r yok, Bursa Kebap\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 ise nicedir ana caddedeki yerini bo\u015faltt\u0131 A\u011fa Cami\u2019nin arkas\u0131ndaki ikinci \u015fubesine s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Eski Bursa Kebap\u00e7\u0131s\u0131\u2019n\u0131n yerineyse Arap turistlerin \u00e7ok ra\u011fbet etti\u011fi bir tatl\u0131c\u0131 yerle\u015fti ki asl\u0131nda 1864\u2019ten beri oradaym\u0131\u015f gibi yap\u0131yor. Caddenin di\u011fer ucundaysa Markiz Pastanesi kaderine terk edilmi\u015fken, Lebon Pastanesi yak\u0131n bir s\u00fcre \u00f6nce sat\u0131ld\u0131 ve bir giysi ma\u011fazas\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ferek tarihe kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u00c7i\u00e7ek Bar ise h\u00e2l\u00e2 eski yerinde ama eski havas\u0131 bir s\u00fcredir yok sanki.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static.birgun.net\/resim\/arsiv\/omer\/omer5\/kemancii.jpg?ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static.birgun.net\/resim\/arsiv\/omer\/emeksinemasi.jpg?ssl=1\")
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