Eski dini mekanlara; tap\u0131nak ve antik alanlara hep ilgim oldu. Bu ilginin nedeni, bir dine mensup olmam ya da olmamam de\u011fil; en g\u00f6rkemli mekanlar\u0131n din ad\u0131na benzersiz in\u015fa edilmesi.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\nBu t\u00fcr mekanlar \u00e7o\u011funlukla hem \u00e7ok fotografik \u00f6\u011fe ta\u015f\u0131r, hem de inanc\u0131n insana neler yapt\u0131rabilece\u011fini bizlere g\u00f6sterir.<\/p>\n
G\u00f6zlerden uzak, ula\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7 ve biraz da gizli kalabilecek yerlerde in\u015fa edilmeleri insan i\u00e7in hep gizemlidir.<\/p>\n
Bu yap\u0131lardan biri de S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131. San\u0131r\u0131m ad\u0131n\u0131 duymayan yok. Hakk\u0131nda binlerce yaz\u0131, y\u00fczlerce kitap yay\u0131mlanan ve belgesel \u00e7ekilen manast\u0131r\u0131 her y\u0131l, her dinden yerli yabanc\u0131 binlerce ki\u015fi ziyaret ediyor.<\/p>\n
Kimisi meraktan, kimisi bu ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fcl\u00fc\u011fe tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmek i\u00e7in zahmetli yoluna katlanarak, manast\u0131r\u0131 g\u00f6rmeye geliyor.<\/p>\n
Ben de Karadeniz\u2019e gelmi\u015fken \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n rotas\u0131n\u0131 izleyerek S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in y\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fc Trabzon\u2019a, oradan da daha i\u00e7 k\u0131s\u0131mlarda bulunan Ma\u00e7ka \u0130l\u00e7esi\u2019ne \u00e7evirdim.<\/p>\n
Uzun ve zahmetli bir yoldan sonra Ma\u00e7ka\u2019n\u0131n ormanla kapl\u0131 dolamba\u00e7l\u0131 yollar\u0131ndan ge\u00e7erek manast\u0131r\u0131n bulundu\u011fu Alt\u0131ndere\u2019ye ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131mda kendimi yemye\u015fil bir vadinin i\u00e7inde, bamba\u015fka bir d\u00fcnyada hissettim.<\/p>\n
Buradan sonra yol K\u00fclt\u00fcr Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n tasarrufunda minib\u00fcslerle s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Birinci etap birka\u00e7 kilometrelik bir yol, ka\u015fla g\u00f6z aras\u0131nda son buluyor. Burada yolcular bir s\u00fcre bekletiliyor.<\/p>\n
Meryem Ana Deresi olarak da bilinen alanda dinlenme yerleri yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Yaz mevsimi olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen Alt\u0131n Dere m\u00fcthi\u015f bir h\u0131zla ak\u0131yor, k\u0131vr\u0131larak orman i\u00e7inden kendine derin yollar a\u00e7arak Karadeniz\u2019e d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
Anla\u015f\u0131lan K\u00fclt\u00fcr Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 burada ticari bir alan yaratmak, gelenleri bir s\u00fcre daha tutmak i\u00e7in b\u00f6yle bir yol bulmu\u015f.<\/p>\n
Buradan tekrar ayn\u0131 nitelikte ama farkl\u0131 minib\u00fcse binerek yol al\u0131n\u0131yor. Yollar dere boyunca ve da\u011f\u0131n dik yamac\u0131n\u0131 yara yara k\u0131vr\u0131larak ilerliyor.<\/p>\n
Yol boyunca orman daha s\u0131\u011f ve g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcne do\u011fru uzayan \u00e7amlar dikkatleri \u00e7ekiyor. Bu yolda ye\u015filin b\u00fct\u00fcn tonlar\u0131n\u0131 ve derenin s\u00fct gibi k\u00f6p\u00fcren suyunu g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n
Bu g\u00fczel do\u011faya yaya olarak tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmek hen\u00fcz m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Yaya yolu i\u00e7in belli belirsiz bir \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma g\u00f6ze \u00e7arp\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Bir hareketlilik olmasa da dere boyunca baz\u0131 alanlarda da\u011fa do\u011fru uzanan yaya yollar\u0131 i\u00e7in demirden iskeletler yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Araba ile al\u0131nan yol manast\u0131ra 300 metre kala son buluyor. Buradan sonra daha dik bir yaya yolu ziyaret\u00e7ileri bekliyor.<\/p>\n
Hayat\u0131mda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm en do\u011fal, en g\u00f6rkemli a\u011fa\u00e7larla kapl\u0131 yolun farkl\u0131 bir heyecan verdi\u011fini, kendimi Y\u00fcz\u00fcklerin Efendisi filminin setinde hissetti\u011fimi s\u00f6yleyebilirim.<\/p>\n
Yol boyunca y\u00fczlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r k\u00f6klerini topra\u011fa salan ya\u015fl\u0131 a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n bulundu\u011funa tan\u0131kl\u0131k ederek yoku\u015f yukar\u0131 ilerleniyor.<\/p>\n
Yer yer eski kayalara oyulan merdivenlerden, yer yer K\u00fclt\u00fcr Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n in\u015fa etti\u011fi ah\u015fap zeminden ilerleyen yol bana antik \u00e7a\u011flar\u0131 \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Yol merdivenlerden dolay\u0131 birazc\u0131k yorucu olsa da \u00e7evredeki da\u011flar\u0131n, dere ve vadilerin manzaras\u0131 insan\u0131 diri tutuyor, bol oksijenli nefes alarak ilerlemesini sa\u011fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
T\u0131rmanma basamaklar\u0131 bitip, manast\u0131r\u0131n giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131na gelindi\u011finde b\u00fct\u00fcn vadi g\u00f6zler \u00f6n\u00fcne seriliyor. Manast\u0131r\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00fckseltiye Karada\u011f deniliyor.<\/p>\n
Kapkara kayalar ve i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ge\u00e7mi\u015f \u00e7amlarla kapl\u0131 devasa kayalar olduk\u00e7a etkileyici. Ayr\u0131ca Alt\u0131ndere\u2019nin iki yakas\u0131nda bulunan yemye\u015fil da\u011flar sisli tepeleriyle insan\u0131 kendine \u00e7ekiyor.<\/p>\n
Manast\u0131r\u0131n kal\u0131n duvarlar\u0131ndan i\u00e7eri girildi\u011finde bu kez ini\u015f i\u00e7in bir ta\u015f merdivenden ilerleyerek S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na var\u0131yorsunuz.<\/p>\n
Buradan sonra zaman geriye, birka\u00e7 as\u0131r \u00f6ncesine d\u00f6n\u00fcyor. Orta\u00e7a\u011f hatta \u00f6tesi bir atmosfer kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor sizi.<\/p>\n
Manast\u0131r\u0131n insan eliyle yap\u0131lan binalar\u0131ndan \u00e7ok, kayan\u0131n i\u00e7ine do\u011fru oyulan, duvarlar\u0131na frenksler yap\u0131lan kilise, g\u00f6rkemini hala kaybetmemi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Buras\u0131n\u0131n muhtemelen do\u011fal bir ma\u011fara oldu\u011fu, buray\u0131 in\u015fa edenlerin bu i\u00e7e do\u011fru olan derinli\u011fi biraz daha kazarak bir mekan olu\u015fturuldu\u011fu anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Vadiye bakan k\u0131s\u0131mlarda sosyal donatlar in\u015fa edilirken, i\u00e7erde ise kilise ve rahip evleri in\u015fa edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n
\u0130\u00e7eriden da\u011flar\u0131n g\u00f6rkemini, kar\u015f\u0131 tepelerden ise yap\u0131lan manast\u0131r\u0131n d\u0131\u015f cephesini kaplayan sosyal donatlar\u0131n ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n
\u0130nsan buray\u0131 ve buraya benzer yerleri g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde ister istemez oturup, d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyor;<\/p>\n
Neden bu kadar zahmetli yerlerde mabetler yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f?<\/p>\n
Buna benzer yap\u0131lar Kapadokya ve Ihlara Vadisi\u2019nin derinliklerinde de var. \u00d6zellikle Ihlara Vadisi\u2019nde kayalara oyulmu\u015f onlarca kilise ve mabet var.<\/p>\n
Keza ayn\u0131 durum Hatay Saint Pierre Kilisesi\u2019nde de g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
Kayalara oyulan ve g\u00f6zlerden uzak, ula\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7 yerlerde in\u015fa edilen manast\u0131r ve kiliseler.<\/p>\n
S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019nda Ihlara Vadisi\u2019nin tersine da\u011f\u0131n dik yamac\u0131nda do\u011fal bir ma\u011fara \u00f6nce merkez se\u00e7ilmi\u015f ve s\u00fcre\u00e7 i\u00e7inde manast\u0131r in\u015fa edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc \u015fartlarda bile ula\u015f\u0131m\u0131n g\u00fc\u00e7 oldu\u011fu, yer yer imkans\u0131z hale geldi\u011fi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcrse, 1600 y\u0131l \u00f6nce insanlar\u0131n ne t\u00fcr zorluklara katlanarak buray\u0131 manast\u0131ra \u00e7evirdi\u011fi anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Buran\u0131n gizemli yap\u0131s\u0131 insanda m\u00fcthi\u015f bir merak uyand\u0131r\u0131rken, \u015fu soru g\u00fcndeme geliyor:<\/p>\n
Buray\u0131 in\u015fa edenler kimden, neden ka\u00e7t\u0131 bunca \u00e7etin yere?<\/p>\n
Ya da bu kadar ula\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7 bir yerde neden manast\u0131r yap\u0131ld\u0131?<\/p>\n
Daha kolay bir yerde in\u015fa etmek, insanlar\u0131 daha kolay \u00e7ekmek varken, neden da\u011flar\u0131n i\u00e7ine do\u011fru bir y\u00f6nelim oldu?<\/p>\n
Birilerinden mi ka\u00e7t\u0131lar, yoksa inan\u00e7lar\u0131 gere\u011fi \u00e7etin yerler mi se\u00e7tiler?<\/p>\n
Kafamda yan\u0131tlanmas\u0131 gereken onlarca deli soruyla kalabal\u0131k ziyaret\u00e7i grup aras\u0131nda dolan\u0131p durdum.<\/p>\n
Manast\u0131r\u0131n ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131k b\u00fct\u00fcn b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerini gezerken, inanc\u0131n insana neler yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131na da tan\u0131k oluyordum.<\/p>\n
1600 y\u0131l \u00f6nce in\u015fa edilen manast\u0131r\u0131n duvarlar\u0131nda Hiristiyanl\u0131k ile ilgili b\u00fct\u00fcn rivayetler resmedilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n
Bu resimler bile tek ba\u015f\u0131na Hristiyanl\u0131k i\u00e7in paha bi\u00e7ilmez bir zenginlik.<\/p>\n
Ger\u00e7i \u00e7o\u011fu tahrip edilmi\u015f, kaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, yer yer bilerek zarar verilmi\u015f. Adlar\u0131n\u0131 yazan, inanc\u0131n\u0131n sembol\u00fcn\u00fc kaz\u0131yanlar\u0131n bini bir para.<\/p>\n
Ama buna ra\u011fmen S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131 hala b\u00fct\u00fcn ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 koruyarak \u00e7a\u011flar \u00f6ncesinden insanlara sesleniyor.<\/p>\n
1923 y\u0131l\u0131na kadar olduk\u00e7a pop\u00fcler olan manast\u0131r, bu tarihten sonra kaderine terk edilmi\u015f olsa da \u00e7evrede zaman zaman ziyaret edilen bir yer olur.<\/p>\n
1972 y\u0131l\u0131nda K\u00fclt\u00fcr Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019na ge\u00e7en manast\u0131r restorasyonu y\u0131llarca s\u00fcrer ve 2010 y\u0131l\u0131nda nihayet ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r ve art\u0131k m\u00fcze olarak varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcr.<\/p>\n
Restorasyonun halen s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc belirtmek gerekiyor. Kapal\u0131 olan b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerde ne var bilmiyorum ama san\u0131r\u0131m as\u0131l \u00fcn\u00fc ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131k olan ma\u011faradan manast\u0131ra d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclen k\u0131s\u0131mdan al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131 kartal yuvas\u0131 gibi da\u011flar\u0131n ete\u011finde, oyulan devasa kayalar\u0131n i\u00e7inde bulunuyor. Manast\u0131r\u0131n \u00f6nemi de san\u0131r\u0131m buradan ileri geliyor.<\/p>\n
S\u00fcmela tam bir inziva yeri, hem g\u00f6\u011fe yak\u0131n, hem de karanl\u0131k ormanlar\u0131n i\u00e7inde.<\/p>\n
San\u0131r\u0131m bu y\u00f6n\u00fc, as\u0131rlar boyu \u00f6zelli\u011fini korumu\u015f\u2026<\/p>\n
*Bu makalede yer alan fikirler yazara aittir ve Independent T\u00fcrk\u00e7e\u2019nin edit\u00f6ryal politikas\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131tmayabilir.<\/p>\n
\nIndependent Turkce<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u015eeyhmus \u00c7ak\u0131rta\u015f Eski dini mekanlara; tap\u0131nak ve antik alanlara hep ilgim oldu. Bu ilginin nedeni, bir dine mensup olmam ya da olmamam de\u011fil; en g\u00f6rkemli mekanlar\u0131n din ad\u0131na benzersiz in\u015fa edilmesi. Bu t\u00fcr mekanlar \u00e7o\u011funlukla hem \u00e7ok fotografik \u00f6\u011fe ta\u015f\u0131r, hem de inanc\u0131n insana neler yapt\u0131rabilece\u011fini bizlere g\u00f6sterir. G\u00f6zlerden uzak, ula\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7 ve biraz da […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":70058,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-70056","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler"],"yoast_head":"\n
G\u00f6\u011fe yak\u0131n, kapkara bir orman\u0131n i\u00e7inde: S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131 - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=70056\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"G\u00f6\u011fe yak\u0131n, kapkara bir orman\u0131n i\u00e7inde: S\u00fcmela Manast\u0131r\u0131 - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u015eeyhmus \u00c7ak\u0131rta\u015f Eski dini mekanlara; tap\u0131nak ve antik alanlara hep ilgim oldu. Bu ilginin nedeni, bir dine mensup olmam ya da olmamam de\u011fil; en g\u00f6rkemli mekanlar\u0131n din ad\u0131na benzersiz in\u015fa edilmesi. Bu t\u00fcr mekanlar \u00e7o\u011funlukla hem \u00e7ok fotografik \u00f6\u011fe ta\u015f\u0131r, hem de inanc\u0131n insana neler yapt\u0131rabilece\u011fini bizlere g\u00f6sterir. 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