{"id":68984,"date":"2022-06-13T04:51:11","date_gmt":"2022-06-13T09:51:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=68984"},"modified":"2022-06-13T04:51:11","modified_gmt":"2022-06-13T09:51:11","slug":"galata-ve-perada-zaman","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=68984","title":{"rendered":"Galata ve Pera\u2019da zaman"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

Bir zamanlar beylerin, madamlar\u0131n sal\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi\u2019nden Galata\u2019ya do\u011fru yol al\u0131yor, kente de\u011fer katan ge\u00e7mi\u015fin unutulmaz izlerini soluyoruz.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Tepeba\u015f\u0131\u2019ndaki durakta inip t\u00fcnele do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcyorum. Bug\u00fcn niyetim eski Pera\u2019y\u0131 ve Galata\u2019y\u0131 solumak\u2026<\/p>\n

Nedense \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi yerine \u201cPera\u201d demek daha nostaljik gelir bana hep. Emek, Markiz, Lebon, Rebul, \u0130nci, \u0130mroz\u2026 S\u00f6ylerken bile i\u00e7im \u0131s\u0131n\u0131yor sanki. \u00d6nce \u00c7i\u00e7ek Pasaj\u0131\u2019na giriyorum,\u201cCite de Pera\u201d. \u0130\u00e7inde kimler yoktu ki? Acemyan\u2019\u0131n t\u00fct\u00fcnc\u00fc d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131, Vallaury\u2019nin pastanesi, Pandelis\u2019in \u00e7i\u00e7ek\u00e7i d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131, Keserciyan\u2019\u0131n terzihanesi, Yorgo\u2019nun meyhanesi, Sideris\u2019in k\u00fcrk ma\u011fazas\u0131\u2026 \u0130stanbul\u2019u \u0130stanbul yapan bu \u00e7o\u011fulcu ortamda Levantenler, Beyaz Ruslar, Museviler, Ermeniler, Rumlar ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fc bir \u00e7e\u015fitlilik yaratm\u0131\u015flard\u0131. Galiba bu y\u00fczden, \u0130stanbul\u2019da hi\u00e7 bir Eyl\u00fcl, 1955\u2019inki kadar h\u00fcz\u00fcnl\u00fc olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n

Devrimden ka\u00e7an Beyaz Ruslar\u2019\u0131n, baroneslerin, d\u00fc\u015feslerin burada \u00e7i\u00e7ek satt\u0131klar\u0131 g\u00fcnleri d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum pasajdan. Madam Anahit\u2019e selam g\u00f6ndermeyi de ihmal etmiyorum. Sonra Bal\u0131k Pazar\u0131\u2019na ge\u00e7iyorum. Bu kentte ya\u015fay\u0131p da bu pasajdan ge\u00e7meyen yoktur herhalde. Midye kokular\u0131, kokore\u00e7\u00e7ilerin b\u0131\u00e7ak sesleri, bal\u0131k kokular\u0131 birbirine kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Deg\u00fcstasyon\u2019un \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7erken b\u00fcy\u00fck usta Orhan Veli\u2019ye selam veriyorum ki \u00e7ok\u00e7a u\u011frad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir meyhaneymi\u015f. Bu kentte ya\u015fayanlar\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck korkusu, mek\u00e2nlarla birlikte an\u0131lar\u0131 da kaybetmek galiba. Sonra Hazzopulo Pasaj\u0131\u2019na giriyorum. Arnavut kald\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 ta\u015flar\u0131n duruyor olmas\u0131, Madam Katia\u2019n\u0131n \u015fapkac\u0131 d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131n\u0131n h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayn\u0131 yerde olmas\u0131 ne ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fc diye ge\u00e7iriyorum i\u00e7imden. Tepeba\u015f\u0131\u2019na do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcyorum. Galata Kulesi\u2019nin alt\u0131ndaki kahveye oturup bir kahve s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorum. Ladino dilinde s\u00f6ylenen \u015fark\u0131lar, rembetikolar, Rus\u00e7a \u015fark\u0131lar kula\u011f\u0131mda. Bir kentin haf\u0131zas\u0131n\u0131 yaratan, bu ortak de\u011ferler asl\u0131nda. Bu noktada b\u00fcy\u00fck usta Ara G\u00fcler \u0130stanbul\u2019u ne g\u00fczel tan\u0131mlar: \u201c\u0130stanbul yaln\u0131zca bir \u015fehir de\u011fil, bir ya\u015fam tarz\u0131d\u0131r. Bir d\u00fcnya g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fcd\u00fcr, tarihtir\u201d der.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcm gizleri i\u00e7inde saklayan sihirli kulenin alt\u0131nda kentin f\u0131s\u0131lt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 dinliyorum. Bu kadim kentte ya\u015fayan t\u00fcm k\u00fclt\u00fcrler, \u0130stanbul\u2019u \u0130stanbul yapan ortak zenginlikti asl\u0131nda. Galata\u2019n\u0131n bu taraf\u0131 tamam\u0131yla bir Yahudi mahallesiymi\u015f bir zamanlar. 1492 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130spanya\u2019dan gelen Sefarad Yahudileri buraya yerle\u015fmi\u015f. Muhte\u015fem bir mimari var. \u00dczerinde \u015fapkal\u0131 kad\u0131n heykellerinin, meleklerin oldu\u011fu ince bir zevkin \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc ola\u011fan\u00fcst\u00fc apartmanlar\u2026 Yap\u0131m y\u0131l\u0131 1880\u2019li y\u0131llara dayanan binalar h\u00e2l\u00e2 b\u00fct\u00fcn zarafetiyle ayaktalar.<\/p>\n

\u0130lk dura\u011f\u0131m Terziler Sinagogu. A\u015fkenaz Cemaati (Do\u011fu Avrupa\u2019dan Osmanl\u0131\u2019ya gelen Yahudiler) i\u00e7in kurulan bir sinagog. Sonra Neve \u015ealom Sinagogu\u2019na giriyorum. Bar\u0131\u015f vadisi anlam\u0131na geliyor. \u0130\u00e7inde mutlaka gezilmesi gereken bir Yahudi tarihi m\u00fczesi var. G\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcne k\u00f6fteci M\u00f6sy\u00f6 Moiz, Avram karde\u015fler, Belifante Pastanesi, berber M\u00f6sy\u00f6 Cibili, mezeci Yomtov, A\u015fer Levi \u015earap Evi geliyor. Bu isimler, kay\u0131tlardan okudu\u011fum Galata esnaf\u0131. O \u015f\u0131k kad\u0131nlar\u0131, beyleri d\u00fc\u015fl\u00fcyorum. Bu uzun y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn ard\u0131ndan T\u00fcnel\u2019de bir \u015farap evine giriyorum. \u201cA\u015fer Levi\u2019nin \u015farap evi mi?\u201d diye soruyorum. Garson \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcme bak\u0131yor. Ben de g\u00fclerek, \u201cOlsun, sen bir kadeh k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farap ver\u201d diyorum. T\u00fcm gidenlerin ruhuna ve b\u0131rakt\u0131klar\u0131 izlere te\u015fekk\u00fcr ederek \u015farab\u0131m\u0131 yudumluyorum.<\/p>\n

\n

Cumhuriyet Gazetesi<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bir zamanlar beylerin, madamlar\u0131n sal\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi\u2019nden Galata\u2019ya do\u011fru yol al\u0131yor, kente de\u011fer katan ge\u00e7mi\u015fin unutulmaz izlerini soluyoruz. Tepeba\u015f\u0131\u2019ndaki durakta inip t\u00fcnele do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcyorum. Bug\u00fcn niyetim eski Pera\u2019y\u0131 ve Galata\u2019y\u0131 solumak\u2026 Nedense \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi yerine \u201cPera\u201d demek daha nostaljik gelir bana hep. Emek, Markiz, Lebon, Rebul, \u0130nci, \u0130mroz\u2026 S\u00f6ylerken bile i\u00e7im \u0131s\u0131n\u0131yor sanki. \u00d6nce \u00c7i\u00e7ek […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":68985,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,34],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-68984","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-istanbul"],"yoast_head":"\nGalata ve Pera\u2019da zaman - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=68984\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Galata ve Pera\u2019da zaman - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Bir zamanlar beylerin, madamlar\u0131n sal\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi\u2019nden Galata\u2019ya do\u011fru yol al\u0131yor, kente de\u011fer katan ge\u00e7mi\u015fin unutulmaz izlerini soluyoruz. Tepeba\u015f\u0131\u2019ndaki durakta inip t\u00fcnele do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcyorum. Bug\u00fcn niyetim eski Pera\u2019y\u0131 ve Galata\u2019y\u0131 solumak\u2026 Nedense \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi yerine \u201cPera\u201d demek daha nostaljik gelir bana hep. 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