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Yemek r\u00f6portajlar\u0131ma T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de bug\u00fcn kalan son Ermeni k\u00f6y\u00fc Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n yemek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcyle devam ediyorum. Bu r\u00f6portaj fikri, \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki haftalarda yay\u0131nlayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bir s\u00f6yle\u015fi i\u00e7in gitti\u011fim ve asl\u0131nda m\u00fcdavimi oldu\u011fum Mezme\u2019de do\u011fdu. Men\u00fcs\u00fc \u0130stanbul ve Antakya mutfaklar\u0131n\u0131n klasiklerinden olu\u015fan Mezme\u2019nin ortaklar\u0131ndan ve \u015fefi Sasun Estukyan\u2019\u0131n Vak\u0131fl\u0131l\u0131 annesi ve teyzesinin o g\u00fcn orada olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenince bu r\u00f6portaj\u0131 yapmadan edemedim. Her Samanda\u011f\u2019a gidi\u015fimde u\u011frad\u0131\u011f\u0131m Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n mutfa\u011f\u0131 hakk\u0131nda bu iki kad\u0131n\u0131n haf\u0131zas\u0131 \u00fczerinden sohbet etme imkan\u0131 buldu\u011fum i\u00e7in \u00e7ok \u015fansl\u0131 hissediyorum kendimi. Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019ya \u00f6zel iki Paskalya simidini orac\u0131kta pi\u015firme inceli\u011fini de g\u00f6sterdikleri i\u00e7in de \u00e7ok te\u015fekk\u00fcr ediyorum. O g\u00fcn Mezme\u2019de bulunma sebebim, ayn\u0131 zamanda Antakyal\u0131 Ortodokslar\u0131n Samanda\u011f\u2019da da s\u0131k yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 yemeklerden biri olan martadellay\u0131 beraberce yapmakt\u0131. Bununla ilgili konu\u015furken, \u015f\u00f6yle ilgin\u00e7 bir \u015fey \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131 ortaya: Martadella Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019da, s\u00f6yle\u015fi s\u0131ras\u0131nda yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z ve en altta tarifleri bulunan simitler de Samanda\u011f\u2019da hi\u00e7 bilinmiyor. Birbirimize bu kadar yak\u0131n olmam\u0131za ra\u011fmen, hala bilmedi\u011fimiz rit\u00fcellerimiz oldu\u011funa \u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131yorum.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n \u015ea\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131ma ara verip \u00f6ncelikle onlarla bu iki simidi \u015fekillendirip f\u0131r\u0131na veriyoruz ve sohbete ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. Seta Estukyan, yedi ya\u015f\u0131nda Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019dan ayr\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra \u0130stanbullu bir Ermeniyle, Agos yazar\u0131 Pakrat Estukyan\u2019la evlenmi\u015f, o y\u00fczden \u201cVak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019ya dair \u00e7ok az \u015fey hat\u0131rlar\u0131m, hayal meyaldir\u201d diyor. Karde\u015fi Iskuhi Demirta\u015f ise 22 ya\u015f\u0131nda gelmi\u015f \u0130stanbul\u2019a. Onun haf\u0131zas\u0131 Seta Han\u0131m\u2019\u0131n da an\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7lendiriyor sohbetimiz s\u0131ras\u0131nda. Anneleri \u00e7ok g\u00fczel yemek yaparm\u0131\u015f, Iskuhi Han\u0131m i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte yapmay\u0131 ondan \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015f. Ama \u201ci\u00e7lik\u00f6fteyi de anneme kendi babas\u0131 \u00f6\u011fretmi\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fckken\u201d diye ekliyor Seta Han\u0131m. Erkeklerin yemek yapmas\u0131na \u015fa\u015f\u0131rm\u0131yorum, ne de olsa bizim oralarda \u00f6zellikle et yemeklerini erkekler yapmaya merakl\u0131d\u0131r. Seta Han\u0131m beni do\u011fruluyor ve ekliyor: \u201cBizde erkekler daha \u00e7ok mangal i\u015fini yapar. Et yemeklerini yapar. Et yemekleri dedi\u011finde sadece mangald\u0131r zaten.\u201d<\/p>\n Erkek demi\u015fken sohbet s\u0131ras\u0131nda yan\u0131ba\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda oturan Seta Han\u0131m\u2019\u0131n e\u015fi Pakrat Abi\u2019ye laf at\u0131yorum: \u201cAnnenin yemeklerinden sonra e\u015finin mutfa\u011f\u0131 nas\u0131l geldi sana, yad\u0131rgad\u0131n m\u0131?\u201d Pakrat Abi ka\u00e7amak cevap veriyor: \u201cBen sokak lezzetlerini \u00e7ok severim. De\u011fi\u015fik lezzetleri de \u00e7ok severim. Ger\u00e7ekten sokakta yap\u0131lan her \u015feyi evde yap\u0131lana tercih ederim. E\u015fimin mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 da yad\u0131rgamad\u0131m, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc e\u015fim mutfakla ilgili bir \u015fey bilmiyordu. O da \u0130stanbul mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frendi.\u201d Seta Han\u0131m do\u011fruluyor e\u015fini. \u201cMidye dolmay\u0131, topi\u011fi, yaprak dolmay\u0131 kay\u0131nvalidemden \u00f6\u011frendim. Kay\u0131nvalidem de Trabzon do\u011fumludur, annesi ve babas\u0131 ayr\u0131 yerlerdendir. \u00c7art, yani soyk\u0131r\u0131m d\u00f6neminden kalanlardand\u0131r. 40 g\u00fcnl\u00fckken \u0130stanbul\u2019a gelmi\u015fti. \u0130stanbul k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcyle b\u00fcy\u00fcm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cPeki, Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc nas\u0131l devam ettirdiniz \u0130stanbul\u2019da?\u201d diye soruyorum. Seta Han\u0131m cevapl\u0131yor: \u201cBizim evde topland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda genellikle i\u00e7li k\u00f6fteyi mutlaka yapard\u0131k. Annemler bize geldi\u011finde k\u0131ymetli yemek olarak mutlaka olacakt\u0131. \u0130stanbullularda bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr yoktu ama sevdiler, biz hi\u00e7 sorun ya\u015famad\u0131k. Biz ise midye dolmayla \u0130stanbul\u2019da tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Ama midye dolmay\u0131 yad\u0131rgad\u0131k. Bize biraz farkl\u0131 geldi. Bizde bilinmezdi. \u00c7ok g\u00fczel karidesler \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131 bizim orada ama biz karidesi tan\u0131mam\u0131\u015f\u0131z. Ama bal\u0131k yerdik. Y\u0131lan bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerdik.\u201d<\/p>\n Daha \u00f6nceki yemek r\u00f6portaj\u0131nda y\u0131lan bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n neslinin t\u00fckendi\u011finden bahsetmi\u015ftik. O nedenle buna dair anlat\u0131lar benim i\u00e7in ayr\u0131 bir k\u0131ymetli. Iskuhi Han\u0131m biraz detay veriyor: \u201cBen yememi\u015fim ama derelerden yakalarlard\u0131. Almanya\u2019daki amcao\u011flum var Ohannes, onlar girerlerdi g\u00f6l\u00fcn i\u00e7ine yakalarlard\u0131. K\u0131zartmas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131. Sos kullanmazd\u0131k. Ben de amcam\u0131n o\u011fluna \u2018normal y\u0131lan olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 nereden biliyorsunuz, ya \u0131s\u0131r\u0131rsa sizi?\u2019 diye sordu\u011fumu hat\u0131rlar\u0131m. Biz k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fckt\u00fck, onlar daha b\u00fcy\u00fckt\u00fc. Antakya merkezde tatl\u0131 su bal\u0131klar\u0131 da olurdu.\u201d Seta Han\u0131m da bal\u0131k yenilen baz\u0131 oru\u00e7 d\u00f6nemlerini anlat\u0131yor: \u201cMesela burada iki b\u00fcy\u00fck bayram\u0131n \u00f6ncesinde kh\u0131tum (arife) deriz, bal\u0131k yenirdi. Annem bizimle ya\u015fad\u0131 uzun seneler, orada \u00e7ok konu\u015ftururdum kendisini. \u2018Kh\u0131tumlarda ne yapard\u0131n\u0131z?\u2019 derdim. \u2018Bal\u0131k yenir\u2019 derdi. \u2018Le\u011fen le\u011fen bal\u0131k k\u0131zart\u0131rd\u0131k\u2019 dedi, \u2018ba\u015fka ne yapard\u0131n\u0131z?\u2019 \u2018\u0130\u015fte patates k\u0131zart\u0131rd\u0131k, kabak k\u0131zart\u0131rd\u0131k\u2019 derdi. Bayram sofras\u0131nda bal\u0131k varm\u0131\u015f yani.\u201d<\/p>\n Bal\u0131k konusu kendili\u011finden a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131na g\u00f6re tak\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fum bir di\u011fer meseleyi, yani ac\u0131 yeme konusunu soruyorum. \u201dVak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019da yiyen de var yemeyen de, biz mesela ac\u0131 yemeyenlerdeniz. \u00c7ok hafif bir lokma ac\u0131 konur i\u00e7li k\u00f6ftelere o kadar. Samanda\u011f merkezde \u00e7ok ac\u0131 yerler\u201d diyor Iskuhi Han\u0131m. Seta Han\u0131m ekliyor: \u201cBizde yok ama teyzem Bityas\u2019da ya\u015fard\u0131, yemekleri korkun\u00e7 ac\u0131 yapard\u0131.\u201d<\/p>\n Kafama tak\u0131lan bir di\u011fer konu da, \u0130stanbul yemekleri ile Vak\u0131fl\u0131 yemek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc aras\u0131ndaki fark. Seta Han\u0131m \u201c\u00c7ok farkl\u0131d\u0131r. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bizimki Anadolu yeme\u011fidir\u201d diyor. Iskuhi Han\u0131m \u201cBizim o taraf\u0131n yemekleri sal\u00e7al\u0131 ve ya\u011fl\u0131d\u0131r\u201d diye ekliyor. Seta Han\u0131m, bulgurun Antakya yemeklerinde \u00e7ok oldu\u011funu, \u0130stanbul\u2019un sebze t\u00fcrleri \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Tam fark\u0131 soracakken, Iskuhi Han\u0131m cevaplay\u0131veriyor: \u201cKereviz, p\u0131rasa yoktu Hatay\u2019da mesela\u201d.<\/p>\n O s\u0131rada Mezme\u2019nin a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131ndan Samanda\u011fl\u0131 Elizabet odaya giriyor, bizi duymu\u015f belli ki. \u201cDomuz eti de vard\u0131r Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019da \u00e7ok\u201d diyor. B\u00f6ylece Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019ya ait baz\u0131 tarifleri anlatmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yorlar bana. Seta Han\u0131m, \u201cdomuz yabani, avlan\u0131yor. Herkesin dipfrizi doludur. Ama o domuzu i\u015fleme k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc yoktur mesela. Genellikle mangal yap\u0131l\u0131r. Normal \u015fi\u015flerimiz yoktur bizim. Defne dallar\u0131 \u015fi\u015f \u015feklinde haz\u0131rlan\u0131r, pi\u015ferken onun tad\u0131 da ge\u00e7iyor tabii ki, \u00e7ok daha g\u00fczel oluyor\u201d diye ekliyor. Iskuhi Han\u0131m tepsi kebab\u0131n\u0131n bile domuzdan yap\u0131labilece\u011fini hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor. Ama bal\u0131ktan kebap yapm\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n \u201cVak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019da \u0130stanbul\u2019dan farkl\u0131 olarak yap\u0131lan yemeklerden biri de ci\u011fer yahnidir\u201d diyor Iskuhi Han\u0131m: \u201cBeyaz\u0131 ile siyah\u0131n\u0131 beraber pi\u015firirdi annem so\u011fanl\u0131. Ben yapmam\u0131\u015f\u0131m ama annem yapard\u0131 lezzetli olurdu.\u201d Seta Han\u0131m da onu do\u011fruluyor: \u201cMamam buradayken karaci\u011feri dilim dilim kestirirdi, onu yahni yapard\u0131. Ben beyaz\u0131n\u0131 kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 hat\u0131rlam\u0131yorum ama annem ci\u011fer yahni bol so\u011fanl\u0131 \u00e7ok yapard\u0131. Bizde Arnavut ci\u011feri k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc yoktu mesela, daha sonra tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Bizde ci\u011fer yahni yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131.\u201d Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019da yap\u0131lan bir di\u011fer yemek de par\u00e7a par\u00e7a kesilen tavuktan yap\u0131lan so\u011fanl\u0131 \u201cdubbu\u201dymu\u015f. Seta Han\u0131m onun da \u0130stanbul\u2019da g\u00f6rmedi\u011fi yemeklerden, Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019ya ait bir \u201cmisafir yeme\u011fi\u201d oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n Gelelim sebze yemeklerine. Malum \u0130stanbul ile Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019y\u0131 ay\u0131ran sebzelerin farkl\u0131 oldu\u011fundan bahsettik. Sulak yerde ekilen\u00a0glugus<\/em>\u00a0dedikleri sebzeden bahsediyor Iskuhi Han\u0131m. Ben bizim k\u0131lkez dedi\u011fimiz Alanya taraflar\u0131nda g\u00f6levez olarak bilinen sebzeden bahsetti\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. \u201cT\u00fcrk\u00e7esi nedir bilmiyoruz, yer elmas\u0131na benzer. Elini yakar soyarken. T\u00fcyl\u00fc t\u00fcyl\u00fcd\u00fcr. K\u00f6k sebzedir, tatl\u0131 patatese benzer. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fckt\u00fcr. Zencefile benzer ama t\u00fcyleri vard\u0131r. Onu soyarken eldiven takacaks\u0131n eline. K\u00fcp k\u00fcp kesip onu nohutlu par\u00e7a etli yeme\u011fini yapars\u0131n. Onu da dedem, annemin babas\u0131, \u00e7ok ekerdi.\u201d diye tarif ediyor Iskuhi Han\u0131m. Ba\u015fka ne var diye soruyorum. \u201cOradaki otlar burada yok mesela. Orada bah\u00e7eden otlar toplard\u0131k.\u201d diyor Seta Han\u0131m. Iskuhi Han\u0131m bu otlarla bazen kavurma ama \u00e7o\u011funlukla \u00e7orba yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Seta Han\u0131m ise bunu bizim anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00e7orbadan farkl\u0131 oldu\u011funu ana yemek olarak yendi\u011fini hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc diyor \u0130skuhi Han\u0131m \u201conun da i\u00e7ine bulgur at\u0131yorlard\u0131. Biraz \u00f6zde\u015fle\u015fsin diye. Bakliyat olurdu. Nohut, b\u00f6r\u00fclce konur.\u201d<\/p>\n Ba\u015fka bir yemek daha \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor anlat\u0131lar\u0131nda Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019y\u0131 \u0130stanbul yemek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnden farkl\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fckleri. Seta Han\u0131m anlat\u0131yor: \u201cBir de tarhana farkl\u0131d\u0131r bizde. Yo\u011furtla pi\u015firilir ve yumak yumak yap\u0131l\u0131r. Malatya falan da galiba \u00f6yle yap\u0131yor. O kurutulur, edilir. Tarhana \u00e7orbas\u0131 dedi\u011fimizde o bir gece \u00f6nceden \u0131slat\u0131l\u0131r. Ve ertesi g\u00fcn\u00fc pi\u015firildi\u011finde onun i\u00e7erisine sebze konulur. O da ana yemek gibidir. K\u0131\u015f\u0131n nohut, lahana gibi konur, yaz\u0131n kabak, ye\u015fil fasulye, patates gibi, domatesli \u00f6yle ana yemek gibi pi\u015fer, burada yoktur o.\u201d<\/p>\n Bulguru soruyorum bir de. Bu\u011fday\u0131n toplu al\u0131nma ve evde aile fertleri taraf\u0131ndan i\u015flenerek bulgur haline getirilmesi \u00e7o\u011fu yerde yok olmu\u015f bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr ne de olsa. \u0130skuhi Han\u0131m s\u00f6ze ba\u015fl\u0131yor \u201cAmbar\u0131m\u0131z vard\u0131. Bu\u011fday al\u0131rd\u0131k, ha\u015flard\u0131k onu. Has\u0131r derler sererdik, bizim oralar biliyorsun hep a\u00e7\u0131k alanlar. Onun \u00fczerine beyaz \u00e7ar\u015faflar sererdik. Ha\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kazandan \u00e7\u0131kan bu\u011fdaylar\u0131 onlar\u0131n \u00fczerine kuruturduk. Ondan sonra da el de\u011firmeniyle \u00e7ekerdik. \u015eimdi art\u0131k her \u015fey haz\u0131r.\u201d Seta Han\u0131m devam ediyor: \u201cEskiden k\u00f6yl\u00fclerin bu\u011fday tarlalar\u0131 vard\u0131, \u015fimdi kalmad\u0131 art\u0131k. Hepsi sat\u0131ld\u0131.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cPeki ya zeytin? Zeytin a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 bir dolu Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019da? Kendi zeytinya\u011f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 yap\u0131yor musunuz?\u201d diye soruyorum. Cevab\u0131 dinlerken aralar\u0131ndaki diyalo\u011fun i\u00e7erisinde kayboluyorum, oldu\u011fu gibi aktar\u0131yorum:<\/p>\n Seta Estukyan (SE):<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0Zeytinya\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kendimiz \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131rd\u0131k eskiden.<\/p>\n Iskuhi Demirba\u015f (\u0130D):<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0\u015eimdi hepsi toplat\u0131yor \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar\u0131na fabrikaya g\u00f6nderiyor. Teneke teneke al\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n SE:<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0Eskiden ta\u015f de\u011firmende \u00e7ekilirdi. Ben onu hayal meyal hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum o kokuyu. Biz bat\u00f6z deriz b\u00fcy\u00fck de\u011firmene.<\/p>\n \u0130D:<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0B\u00fcy\u00fck ta\u015f de\u011firmen.<\/p>\n SE:<\/strong><\/b>\u00a01980\u2019lere kadar vard\u0131 o. Onun kokusu hala vard\u0131. Burnuna gelirdi. Hat\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m s\u0131cak ekme\u011fi yeni \u00e7\u0131kan zeytinya\u011f\u0131na bat\u0131r\u0131p yerdik. Ablam s\u00f6yledi, biz\u00a0banruhutz<\/em>\u00a0diyoruz ya s\u00fcrkiyle yap\u0131lan ekme\u011fe. S\u00fcrkiyi bol so\u011fanla haz\u0131rlay\u0131p, ince lahmacundan biraz fazla kal\u0131n ekme\u011fin \u00fcst\u00fcne koyup pi\u015firiyorlard\u0131.<\/p>\n \u0130D:<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0Tand\u0131rda pi\u015firiyorlard\u0131 onu da.<\/p>\n SE:<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0K\u00fcspe mi denir? Hani zeytinya\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yorsun arta kalan\u0131.<\/p>\n \u0130D:<\/strong><\/b>\u00a0\u201cCif\u201d denir bizim dilimizde. Ta\u015f de\u011firmende \u00e7ekiyorsun ya zeytinleri. Onun \u00e7\u0131kan posas\u0131ndan bile ekme\u011fin i\u00e7ine kat\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131. \u00c7ekirdeklerini ay\u0131klard\u0131k, onu s\u00fcrkili ekmek gibi yapard\u0131k ama bu zeytinin posas\u0131yla yap\u0131l\u0131r. So\u011fanl\u0131 falan kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m yapard\u0131k, ekme\u011fin \u00fcst\u00fcne s\u00fcrerdik, tand\u0131ra vururduk. \u015eimdi her \u015fey fabrikaya gitti ve kalmad\u0131 onlar.<\/p>\n Seta Han\u0131m \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131 da evde yapt\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rl\u0131yor. Iskuhi Han\u0131m s\u00f6ze giriyor: \u201cBizim o zamanlar siyah \u00fcz\u00fcm asmam\u0131z vard\u0131. Onu toplard\u0131k. Onun suyunu s\u0131kard\u0131k, ondan \u015farap yapard\u0131 annem. Ve biz okula giderken biraz i\u00e7irirdi annem bize \u00fc\u015f\u00fcmeyelim, v\u00fccudumuz s\u0131cak olsun diye.\u201d Seta Han\u0131m ise k\u00f6yde okula sadece bir sene gidebilmi\u015f \u0130stanbul\u2019a gelmeden \u00f6nce: \u201cSabah gitmeden \u00f6nce biraz o \u015faraptan i\u00e7ip gitti\u011fimi hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Yani yedi ya\u015f\u0131mda i\u00e7iyorum (g\u00fclerek). Bunu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorum buradakilere \u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131p duruyorlar.\u201d \u00dcz\u00fcmden sirke yaparlar m\u0131yd\u0131 peki diye sorunca \u201ceskiden yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131 ancak art\u0131k her \u015fey haz\u0131r al\u0131n\u0131yor, ekmek bile yapm\u0131yorlar\u201d cevab\u0131n\u0131 al\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n Biraz da bayram yemeklerinden bahsedelim. Malum bug\u00fcn Paskalya. \u201cPaskalya\u2019ya, Noel\u2019e \u00f6zg\u00fc yemekler var m\u0131d\u0131r?\u201d diye soruyorum. \u201cMutlaka i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte olacak. \u0130\u00e7li k\u00f6fte yoksa tepside olacak. Tepside ama ayn\u0131 i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte harc\u0131. Mutlaka baklava olacak, ev baklavas\u0131\u201d diyor Seta Han\u0131m. Anneleri a\u00e7arm\u0131\u015f bayramlarda baklavay\u0131. Noel\u2019den bir g\u00fcn \u00f6nce \u00e7ocuklar kap\u0131 kap\u0131 dola\u015f\u0131p ak\u015fam\u00fcst\u00fc \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fu\u015funu haber verirlermi\u015f.<\/p>\n Bir de Surp Sarkis\u2019te (Ocak ay\u0131n\u0131n son veya \u015eubat\u2019\u0131n ilk haftasonunda kutlanan yortu) yap\u0131lan,\u00a0kumbu<\/i><\/em>dedikleri pekmezle yo\u011frulan bir \u00e7\u00f6rekten bahsediyor Seta Han\u0131m: \u201cSurp Sarkis, isim g\u00fcnlerinin bayram\u0131d\u0131r. Hazreti H\u0131z\u0131r. Mutlaka bu \u00e7\u00f6rek yap\u0131l\u0131r ve o \u00e7\u00f6rek k\u00fclde pi\u015fer. Hafif tatl\u0131ms\u0131d\u0131r. Mutlaka o yap\u0131l\u0131r. Hazreti H\u0131z\u0131r\u2019\u0131n, yani Surp Sarkis\u2019in, nal\u0131n\u0131n izi \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131l\u0131r. Surp Sarkis ayn\u0131 zamanda St. Valentine\u2019a e\u015fde\u011ferdir ve gen\u00e7lerin h\u0131z\u0131r\u0131d\u0131r o.\u201d<\/p>\n Ufak o\u011flunun ad\u0131n\u0131 koyarken esinlendikleri Vartanants\u2019ta (Ermenilerin Perslere kar\u015f\u0131 kimliklerini koruduklar\u0131 sava\u015f\u0131n an\u0131s\u0131na kutlan\u0131r) da mutlaka i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte yapt\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 anlat\u0131yor Seta Han\u0131m. Bir de an\u0131s\u0131 var: \u201cBiz ufak o\u011flumuzun ad\u0131n\u0131 Vartan koyaca\u011f\u0131z dedi\u011fimizde, anam\u00a0\u00a0\u2018ben \u00f6l\u00fcnceye kadar Vartanants nas\u0131l kutlan\u0131rsa \u00f6yle kutlayaca\u011f\u0131z isim g\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fc\u2019 dedi. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc isim g\u00fcnleri kutlan\u0131r bizde. Ve Vartanants\u2019ta bug\u00fcne kadar, annem \u00f6leli 11 y\u0131l oluyor, mutlaka i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte yap\u0131l\u0131r tabii ki. Ve i\u015fte bayram yemekleri, k\u00f6yde mutlaka etli dolma olurdu. Etli dolma misafir yeme\u011fi \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc. Genelde patl\u0131can dolmas\u0131 olurdu.\u201d Iskuhi Han\u0131m bir de yaprak sarmas\u0131 yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n Ben yine duram\u0131yorum, Samanda\u011f\u2019da tarhana ve etle yap\u0131lan i\u00e7ine i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte konan ki\u015fk \u00e7orbas\u0131n\u0131 bilip bilmediklerini soruyorum, biraz da tarif ediyorum. Seta Han\u0131m \u201cbizde i\u00e7li k\u00f6fteyi pi\u015fmi\u015f yo\u011furt \u00e7orbas\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7ine koyarlar.\u201d diyor. \u00d6zellikle Paskalya \u00f6ncesi yap\u0131lan ve tuzlu yo\u011furtla yap\u0131lan lebeniye \u00e7orbas\u0131na koydu\u011fumuz i\u00e7i so\u011fanl\u0131 i\u00e7li k\u00f6ftelerden bahsetti\u011fimde de onu b\u00fcy\u00fck oru\u00e7 zaman\u0131nda yapt\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011freniyorum.<\/p>\n Paskalya\u2019ya \u00f6zel rit\u00fcellerden bahsetmeden, Meryem Ana Bayram\u0131 ve ba\u011f bozumunun bir arada kutland\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00fcne (15 A\u011fustos\u2019a en yak\u0131n pazar) dair konu\u015fuyoruz biraz da. En son 2018 y\u0131l\u0131nda gitti\u011fimde kazan kazan h\u0131risi yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fc s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorum. \u201c7 kazan\u201d diye hakl\u0131 olarak d\u00fczeltiyor beni Seta Han\u0131m, \u201c7 k\u00f6y\u00fc temsilen. 39\u2019da gidip bo\u015faltm\u0131\u015flar ya. Ondan \u00f6nce Frans\u0131zlar\u0131n d\u00f6neminde \u2018ha\u00e7\u2019ta (Surp Ha\u00e7 Yortusu) yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f, Eyl\u00fcl\u2019\u00fcn \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc pazar\u0131nda. B\u00fcy\u00fck bayramlardan biridir bizim. Ahali gittikten sonra, ba\u011f bozumunu Asdvadzadzin\u2019e (Meryem Ana\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6\u011fe y\u00fckseli\u015fi) alm\u0131\u015flar. Ayn\u0131 zamanda Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019daki kilisenin isim g\u00fcn\u00fc. Kiliselerin de isim g\u00fcnleri vard\u0131r. Bizde 15 A\u011fustos\u2019a en yak\u0131n gelen pazar g\u00fcn\u00fc kutlan\u0131r. Rumlarda 15\u2019idir.\u201d<\/p>\n E\u011flenceler iki g\u00fcn s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc diye hat\u0131rlat\u0131yorum. \u201cO da medyatik bir k\u00f6y olduktan sonra\u201d diyor Seta Han\u0131m, \u201cYoksa cumartesi ak\u015fam\u0131 olurdu e\u011flence. \u00c7ocuklu\u011fumdan yaln\u0131zca bir kutlamay\u0131 hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Cumartesi ak\u015fam\u00fcst\u00fc olan bir \u015feydi. Kad\u0131nlar ak\u015fam\u00fcst\u00fc giderler bu\u011fday\u0131 ay\u0131klarlar, y\u0131karlar, haz\u0131rlarlar. Eskiden kurbanlar da orada kesilirdi. \u015eimdi g\u00fczel bir \u015fey yapt\u0131lar, kurbanlar orada kesilmiyor. O ak\u015fam da orada h\u0131risi pi\u015ferken e\u011flence yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131, \u015fark\u0131lar s\u00f6ylenirdi, oynarlard\u0131. Gece 12\u2019den sonra faland\u0131. Sabaha kadar ba\u015f\u0131nda beklerlerdi.<\/p>\n harsi trak<\/p>\n Paskalya arifesinde yumurtalar boyan\u0131yor. \u201cYumurtalar Paskalya\u2019da so\u011fan kabuklar\u0131yla boyan\u0131r. Paskalya sabah\u0131 kiliseye yumurtalarla gidilir, ayinden sonra kilisenin avlusunda \u00e7ocuklar birbirlerinin yumurtalar\u0131n\u0131 k\u0131rarlar. Bayramla\u015f\u0131rlar. Ayin pazar sabah\u0131d\u0131r. Kazanan da kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndakinin yumurtas\u0131n\u0131 al\u0131r\u201d diye aktar\u0131yor Seta Han\u0131m. Bayram sofras\u0131nda ise topik olurmu\u015f ama bunu \u0130stanbul\u2019da \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor Seta Han\u0131m. \u201cTopik Anadolu\u2019da yok ama Adana\u2019da var. Ke\u015fi\u015f yeme\u011fi deniyor orada. Bir papaz\u0131n gezi kitab\u0131nda okudum.\u201dAyr\u0131ca i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte, baklava,\u00a0banruhutz<\/em><\/i>\u00a0(s\u00fcrkili ekmek) ve r\u00f6portaj s\u0131ras\u0131nda f\u0131r\u0131nda pi\u015fmekte olan\u00a0tsiti pigi\u011f<\/em><\/i>\u00a0(zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 simit) ve\u00a0gatni pigi\u011f<\/em><\/i>\u00a0(s\u00fctl\u00fc simit) mutlaka olurmu\u015f sofrada. Bu arada, tsiti pigi\u011fin ba\u015fka bir \u00f6zel hikayesi de var.\u00a0 Bu simidin hamuruyla yap\u0131lan ancak\u00a0harsi trak\u00a0<\/em><\/i>denilen bir ekmek oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyorum. B\u00fcy\u00fck Oru\u00e7 d\u00f6neminin ortas\u0131nda damat taraf\u0131 ni\u015fanl\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131n ailesini ziyarete i\u00e7i \u00e7e\u015fitli yiyecek ve hediyeler dolu sepetle ziyarete gitti\u011finde, k\u0131z taraf\u0131 da kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k olarak erkek taraf\u0131na haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7e\u015fitli hediyelerle birlikte gelin ekme\u011fi olarak da adland\u0131r\u0131lan bu ekme\u011fi takdim edermi\u015f. Tsiti pigi\u011fden farkl\u0131 olarak harsi trak, yuvarlak ve d\u00fcz bir hamur haline getiriliyor, kenarlar\u0131na \u015fekil veriliyor ve \u00fczerine ha\u00e7 izi \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n R\u00f6portaj sonuna geliyoruz, ayn\u0131 anda f\u0131r\u0131ndan simitler \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. Biz tad\u0131na bak\u0131yoruz. Tariflerini de burada sizlerle payla\u015f\u0131yoruz.\u00a0 Mutlu Paskalyalar! \u015enorhavor Surp Zadig!<\/p>\n Malzemeler<\/strong><\/b> Malzemeler<\/strong><\/b> https:\/\/nehna.org\/seta-estukyan-ve-iskuhi-demirbasin-anlatisiyla-vakifli-mutfagi-ve-paskalya-tarifleri\/\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Yemek r\u00f6portajlar\u0131ma T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de bug\u00fcn kalan son Ermeni k\u00f6y\u00fc Vak\u0131fl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n yemek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcyle devam ediyorum. Bu r\u00f6portaj fikri, \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki haftalarda yay\u0131nlayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bir s\u00f6yle\u015fi i\u00e7in gitti\u011fim ve asl\u0131nda m\u00fcdavimi oldu\u011fum Mezme\u2019de do\u011fdu. Men\u00fcs\u00fc \u0130stanbul ve Antakya mutfaklar\u0131n\u0131n klasiklerinden olu\u015fan Mezme\u2019nin ortaklar\u0131ndan ve \u015fefi Sasun Estukyan\u2019\u0131n Vak\u0131fl\u0131l\u0131 annesi ve teyzesinin o g\u00fcn orada olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenince bu r\u00f6portaj\u0131 yapmadan edemedim. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":68046,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-68045","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-mutfak"],"yoast_head":"\nGatni Pigi\u011f (S\u00fctl\u00fc Simit)<\/h3>\n
\nUn| 500 gr
\nTereya\u011f\u0131| 100gr eritilmi\u015f
\n\u015eeker| su barda\u011f\u0131 \u015feker
\nMaya | 10 gr toz maya
\nS\u00fct| 300ml (s\u0131ca\u011fa yak\u0131n \u0131l\u0131k)
\nRezene|1,5 tatl\u0131 ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00f6v\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f
\nMahlep|1,5 tatl\u0131 ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131
\nMuskat| 1 \u00e7ay ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131
\nTarif<\/strong><\/b>
\n1) Un, \u015feker, s\u00fct maya ve tereya\u011f\u0131n\u0131, mahlep, muskat ve d\u00f6v\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f rezeneyi yo\u011furup hamur haline getirin. Yumu\u015fak bir hamur olmal\u0131. Bir saat mayalanmaya b\u0131rak\u0131n.
\n2) Yakla\u015f\u0131k 40 graml\u0131k par\u00e7alara ay\u0131r\u0131n. Her par\u00e7ay\u0131 uzun \u00e7ubuk haline getirin, kenarlar\u0131ndan birle\u015ftirip simitten b\u00fcy\u00fck, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck simitlerden de b\u00fcy\u00fck yuvarlak \u015fekil verin.
\n3) 180 derecelik f\u0131r\u0131nda alt\u0131 k\u0131zarana kadar pi\u015firin.<\/p>\nTsiti Pigi\u011f (Zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 Simit)<\/h3>\n
\nUn| 500gr
\nZeytinya\u011f\u0131|2 \u00e7ay barda\u011f\u0131
\nSu|ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 kadar
\nMaya | 10gr
\nTuz |1 tatl\u0131 ka\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131
\n\u00c7\u00f6rekotu| i\u00e7ine serpmek i\u00e7in
\nTarif<\/strong><\/b>
\n1) Un, 1 \u00e7ay barda\u011f\u0131 zeytinya\u011f\u0131, maya, tuz ve ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 kadar su ile bir hamur yap\u0131n, yakla\u015f\u0131k 1 saat mayalanmaya b\u0131rak\u0131n.
\n2) Hamuru e\u015fit par\u00e7alara b\u00f6l\u00fcn ve yufka inceli\u011finde a\u00e7\u0131n. \u00dczerine zeytinya\u011f\u0131 s\u00fcr\u00fcn. \u00c7\u00f6rek otu serpin ve sar\u0131p kenarlardan birle\u015ftirip simit \u015feklini verin.
\n3) \u00dczerine zeytinya\u011f\u0131 s\u00fcr\u00fcn. Kenarlar\u0131 \u00e7atal ile ezin.
\n4) 180 derecelik f\u0131r\u0131nda alt\u0131 k\u0131zarana kadar pi\u015firin.<\/p>\n