\u0130ki yakal\u0131 \u015fehrin g\u00fcn i\u00e7erisinde en \u00e7ok misafiri a\u011f\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 semtiydi bir zamanlar. Pasajlar\u0131, tiyatrolar\u0131, sinemalar\u0131, pastaneleri ve elbette o me\u015fhur b\u00fcy\u00fck caddesiyle gezinti i\u00e7in ilk adresti. Anneannelerimizin me\u015fhur terzileri, annelerimizin ilk a\u015fklar\u0131yla gizli gizli bulu\u015ftu\u011fu d\u00fckk\u00e2nlar\u0131n, son filmi ka\u00e7\u0131rmadan izlemek i\u00e7in ko\u015ftu\u011fumuz Emek Sinemas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n semtiydi. Evet efendim, Pera\u2019dan bahsediyorum, nam-\u0131 di\u011fer Beyo\u011flu\u2019ndan.<\/p>\n
Ta\u015f\u0131 topra\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131n \u015fehrin yakutudur bu semt. Ne mutluluklar ne hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131klar\u0131 ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f, en b\u00fcy\u00fck ac\u0131lar\u0131n ard\u0131ndan bir kere daha do\u011fmu\u015f. Hali\u00e7\u2019in yukar\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan tarihi semt 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l itibariyle geli\u015fmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ve Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n nice kentine ta\u015f \u00e7\u0131karacak mimarisiyle \u0130stanbul\u2019un \u00e7ekim noktalar\u0131ndan bir olmu\u015ftur. Her g\u00fcn binlerce insan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7ti\u011fi pasajlar, sinemalar, ma\u011fazalar, kiliselerin hik\u00e2yeleriyle \u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc bu kentin en g\u00f6zde semti oldu Pera. Bug\u00fcn g\u00fczelli\u011fine biraz toz de\u011fse de hi\u00e7bir \u015fey de\u011fi\u015fmeyen bu semtte tarihi bir yolculuk ba\u015flat\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n
10 ya\u015f\u0131nda Beyo\u011flu ile tan\u0131\u015fan ve hala hayat\u0131n\u0131 orada s\u00fcrd\u00fcren \u00e7evirmen-yazar Ari \u00c7okona ile geziyoruz bu g\u00fczelim semti. Neredeyse t\u00fcm \u00f6mr\u00fcn\u00fc Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda ge\u00e7iren \u00c7okona, senenin alt\u0131, yedi ay\u0131n\u0131 semtten \u00e7\u0131kmadan ge\u00e7irdi\u011finden bahsediyor. \u201cRestoranlar, sinemalar, tiyatrolar, hep burada\u201d diyor \u00c7okana ve s\u00f6z\u00fc Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun Beyo\u011flu olmadan \u00f6nceki haline getiriyor:<\/p>\n
\u201c\u0130stanbul, fetihten \u00f6nce de surlarla \u00e7evriliydi. \u0130stanbul surlar\u0131 17 km bir topra\u011f\u0131 \u00e7evreliyor. Surlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda da bir hayat vard\u0131. Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda da \u00e7ok tanr\u0131l\u0131 d\u00f6nemden kalma tap\u0131naklar mevcuttu. Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun ad\u0131 \u0130ncir A\u011fac\u0131 idi. Muhtemelen \u00e7ok\u00e7a incir a\u011fac\u0131 vard\u0131.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\u0130stiklal Caddesi \/ Foto\u011fraf: Ara G\u00fcler<\/em><\/p>\nPera\u2019dan Bey\u2019in o\u011fluna<\/strong><\/p>\n14. y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar ba\u011fl\u0131k, bah\u00e7elik bir b\u00f6lge olan Pera\u2019da ilk yerle\u015fimler 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131nda in\u015fa edilen Galata Saray\u0131 Mektebi ve Galata Mevlevihanesi olarak biliniyor. Birbiri ard\u0131na a\u00e7\u0131lan el\u00e7iliklerin ard\u0131ndan semtte yerle\u015fim de yava\u015f yava\u015f geli\u015fmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yor ve me\u015fhur Pera i\u00e7in art\u0131k yeni bir isim do\u011fuyor. O y\u00fczy\u0131llarda Osmanl\u0131\u2019da Venedik El\u00e7isi olan Anrea Gritti\u2019nin o\u011flu Alvise Gritti i\u00e7in \u201cBey\u2019in o\u011flu\u201d denildi\u011fi ve bu yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131rman\u0131n zaman i\u00e7inde Beyo\u011flu olarak semtin ad\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n
19. y\u00fczy\u0131la gelindi\u011finde Avrupa kentleri boy \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc\u015fecek hale gelen semtte a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 olarak Levantenler ve gayrim\u00fcslimler ya\u015fard\u0131. \u00c7okana bu d\u00f6nemde Rum n\u00fcfusun oran\u0131n\u0131n fazlal\u0131\u011f\u0131na dikkat \u00e7ekiyor ve 1912 y\u0131llar\u0131nda n\u00fcfus say\u0131m\u0131na at\u0131f yap\u0131yor:<\/p>\n
\u201cAz\u0131nl\u0131k denilince \u00fc\u00e7 gruptan bahsedilir, en me\u015fhurlar\u0131 onlard\u0131r; Rumlar, Ermeniler, Museviler. Kemal Karpat\u2019\u0131n kitab\u0131na bakars\u0131n\u0131z Rumlar\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131 205 bin. Ayr\u0131ca Osmanl\u0131 vatanda\u015f\u0131 olmayan bir n\u00fcfus da vard\u0131 Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda.\u00a0 Bunlar\u0131 da katt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z zaman 1912 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130stanbul\u2019un Rum n\u00fcfusu 310 bin idi. Di\u011fer az\u0131nl\u0131klar\u0131n iki mislinden daha fazla. Bu rakam\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bir \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu Beyo\u011flu civar\u0131nda\u00a0<\/em>ya\u015f\u0131yordu.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\u00c7okana, eski kaynaklarda Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun, Kurtulu\u015f ile yekpare bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm oldu\u011fundan bahsedildi\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Fransa\u2019da ilk sineman\u0131n a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131ndan 2 y\u0131l sonra Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda sinema a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyen \u00c7okana, ayr\u0131ca ilk metrolardan birinin de yine bu semtte a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor ve semtin o d\u00f6nem Avrupa standartlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerinde oldu\u011funa vurgu yap\u0131yor. \u00c7okana\u2019ya g\u00f6re, bir\u00e7ok insan\u0131n Beyo\u011flu\u2019nu se\u00e7mesinin ba\u015fl\u0131ca nedenleri aras\u0131nda bu yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
\u00c7okana, Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n da iste\u011finin bu y\u00f6nde oldu\u011funa dikkat \u00e7ekiyor ve devam ediyor:<\/p>\n
\u201c\u0130nsanlar\u0131 milletlerine g\u00f6re ay\u0131r\u0131yordu ve birbirleriyle pek ili\u015fki i\u00e7erisinde olmalar\u0131n\u0131 istemiyordu. Bu y\u00fczden onlara devaml\u0131 ayr\u0131cal\u0131klar veriyordu, hak vermiyordu. Ayr\u0131cal\u0131k oldu\u011fu zaman kar\u015f\u0131ndakinden \u015f\u00fcphelenirsin, yak\u0131n\u0131nda istemezsiniz, uza\u011f\u0131nda tutars\u0131n\u0131z. Herhalde b\u00fct\u00fcn imparatorluklar \u00f6yle de yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n19. y\u00fczy\u0131l Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun mimari a\u00e7\u0131dan en \u00e7ok geli\u015fti\u011fi y\u00fczy\u0131l. \u201c\u0130stanbul\u2019da en g\u00fczel binalar\u0131n bulundu\u011fu yerdir Beyo\u011flu\u201d diyor \u00c7okana. Rum mimarlar\u0131n Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda asl\u0131nda \u00e7ok fazla eseri oldu\u011funu anlatan \u00c7okana, Yunan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131 ya da Yunan isyan\u0131n\u0131 hazmedemedi\u011fini ve bu ba\u015fkald\u0131rmay\u0131 \u00e7ok ac\u0131mas\u0131zca ezdi\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor ve bir\u00e7ok kilisenin tarihine i\u015faret ediyor:<\/p>\n
\u201cB\u00fct\u00fcn kiliselerin tarihine bak\u0131n. Hepsinde 1830 y\u0131l\u0131nda yeniden in\u015fa edildi yazar.\u00a0 Neden yeniden in\u015fa edildi? \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc y\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131. Ayakta hi\u00e7bir \u015fey kalmad\u0131. Ba\u015fkald\u0131r\u0131dan sonra \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131y\u0131m oldu Rumlara kar\u015f\u0131. Devlet dairelerinden kovuldular, uzakla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131lar\u2026 Onlar\u0131n yerine o zaman milet-i sad\u0131ka olan Ermeniler ge\u00e7ti.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\nBeyo\u011flu \/ Foto\u011fraf: Ara G\u00fcler<\/em><\/p>\nMezarl\u0131klardan kalan sokak isimleri<\/strong><\/p>\nPera. Eski \u0130stanbul\u2019un kar\u015f\u0131 yakas\u0131. Semtin Rum sakinleri Stavrodromi (D\u00f6rtyol) diye olarak and\u0131 y\u0131llarca. \u0130stikl\u00e2l Caddesi (Grand Rue de Pera), \u015ei\u015fhane, Galatasaray ve Asmal\u0131 Mescit\u2019ten olu\u015fan bu d\u00f6rt yol Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun merkezi oldu seneler boyunca. \u00c7okana,\u00a0 bir arkada\u015f\u0131n\u0131n ninesinin \u201cTalimhane\u2019ye kurtlar inerdi\u201d dedi\u011fini hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor sohbetimizde. Taksim taraf\u0131nda kalan yerlerin \u00e7o\u011funluk mezarl\u0131k oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor \u00c7okana ve teker teker sokak isimleriyle anlatmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yor:<\/p>\n
\u201c1860\u2019larda bir veba salg\u0131n\u0131 oluyor. Osmanl\u0131 bu konularda \u00e7ok titizdir. Bir emirle b\u00fct\u00fcn mezarl\u0131klar oradan ta\u015f\u0131n\u0131yor. Zapeion Lisesi ve Esayan Lisesi\u2019nin oldu\u011fu yerler Rum mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131yd\u0131. S\u0131raselviler Caddesi\u2019nin ad\u0131n\u0131n nereden geldi\u011fini hi\u00e7 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcn\u00fcz m\u00fc? Mezarl\u0131kta selvi olur. Onun i\u00e7in S\u0131raselviler. \u00d6te yandan Me\u015felik Soka\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ismi de oradan gelir. Ermeni mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 Divan Oteli taraf\u0131ndayd\u0131. M\u00fcsl\u00fcman mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 da Atat\u00fcrk K\u00fclt\u00fcr Merkezi\u2019nin oradayd\u0131. Nereye gitti o mezarlar. M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar Zincirlikuyu\u2019ya, Hristiyan mezarl\u0131klar\u0131 da \u015ei\u015fli\u2019ye ta\u015f\u0131nd\u0131.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\nSohbetimiz boyunca tarih h\u0131zla ilerlerken Ari \u00c7okana\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7ocuklu\u011funa geldik. 10 ya\u015f\u0131nda ailesiyle Beyo\u011flu\u2019na ta\u015f\u0131nan \u00c7okana, liseye kadar t\u00fcm e\u011fitimini yine bu semtte g\u00f6rd\u00fc. O zamanlar g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Beyo\u011flu annesinin anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan biraz daha farkl\u0131yd\u0131. Art\u0131k bakkala bile \u015fapkayla giden beyler, makyajs\u0131z evden \u00e7\u0131kmayan han\u0131mlar yoktu. Onlar\u0131n yerine gelenleri \u00c7okana anlat\u0131yor:<\/p>\n
\u201cSerseriler, esrake\u015fler, sarho\u015flar, hayat kad\u0131nlar\u0131\u2026 Biz okula gidip gelirken korka korka giderdik. Benim \u00e7ocukluk zamanlar\u0131m Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun k\u00f6t\u00fc y\u0131llar\u0131yd\u0131.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cEskiyi herkes sever, yeniyi kimse be\u011fenmez\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n1960-1970\u2019li y\u0131llar gelip \u00e7att\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Rum n\u00fcfusunun en b\u00fcy\u00fck g\u00f6\u00e7\u00a0 verdi\u011fi semtlerden birisiydi Beyo\u011flu. Bu semtten giden sadece bir n\u00fcfustan ibaret de\u011fildi, beraberinde bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr de \u00e7ekip gitmi\u015fti. \u201cYerine gelen ba\u015fka bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr olsa eyvallah. Yerine gelen k\u00fclt\u00fcrs\u00fczl\u00fck\u201d diye anlat\u0131yor \u00c7okona, seneler i\u00e7inde meydana gelen k\u00fclt\u00fcrel yozla\u015fmay\u0131 ve devam ediyor:<\/p>\n
\u201c\u0130stanbul\u2019da \u015fu anda ya\u015fanan kasaba k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc. K\u00f6y olsa iyi. K\u00f6y insan\u0131 do\u011faya yak\u0131nd\u0131r. Kasaba insan\u0131 k\u00f6yden uzakla\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r ama k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc bir insana da d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fememi\u015ftir.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\u201cBeyo\u011flu\u2019na \u00e7\u0131kmak\u2026\u201d \u00c7ok da uzak de\u011fil bu c\u00fcmle ne bana ne de \u00c7okana\u2019ya. Anneannem, ne zaman al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f zaman\u0131 gelse b\u00f6yle ba\u015flard\u0131 c\u00fcmleye. Bug\u00fcn bana miras kalan bu c\u00fcmleyi benden duyanlar birka\u00e7 dakika durup anlamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. \u015eimdilerde unutulan bu basit c\u00fcmlenin kula\u011fa bir o kadar anlams\u0131z bir o kadar nostaljik geldi\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorlar. Ben ve \u00c7okana ise sadece k\u00fclt\u00fcrel aktar\u0131m oldu\u011fu fikrindeyiz. Ayr\u0131ca bug\u00fcn nostalji ad\u0131na bile Beyo\u011flu\u2019nda bir \u015fey kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fcndeyiz. \u00c7okana, bunun basit bir mant\u0131\u011fa dayand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor:<\/p>\n
\u201cHerkes, eskiyi \u00f6zler, yeniyi pek be\u011fenmez. Bu konuda biraz mutlak\u0131yet var. Eskiden bir merkez lisesi vard\u0131. Taksim \u0130lk Yard\u0131m Hastanesi\u2019nin arkas\u0131nda kal\u0131rd\u0131. Daha \u00e7ok ev han\u0131mlar\u0131 yeti\u015ftirirdi. O ortaokulun sene sonunda klasik yunanca oyunlar\u0131 sergilenirdi. \u0130\u015fte b\u00f6yle birikmi\u015f bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr vard\u0131. Art\u0131k 15-20 y\u0131lda bir sil ba\u015ftan yap\u0131yoruz.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\u00c7okana\u2019ya g\u00f6re Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun kimli\u011fini kaybetti\u011fi zamanlar onun \u00e7ocukluk ve gen\u00e7lik y\u0131llar\u0131na denk geliyor. 1970\u2019li y\u0131llarda birden bire k\u00fclt\u00fcrs\u00fczle\u015fmenin ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyen \u00c7okana, sonraki s\u00fcre\u00e7te sil ba\u015ftan her \u015feyin yeniden ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 dile getiriyor. 2000\u2019li y\u0131llar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda \u0130slami versiyonla yeniden ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ifaden eden \u00c7okana, \u201c\u0130slami versiyon da k\u00f6t\u00fc de\u011fil. O \u0130slami versiyona da ya\u015fama da izni verelim. \u00dc\u00e7 nesil \u0130stanbullu olsunlar ne kadar rafine olacaklar. \u015eimdi onlar\u0131 kovup yerine ba\u015fka bir \u015fey koyarsak, i\u015fte o k\u00f6t\u00fc\u201d diyor.<\/p>\n
Beyo\u011flu, her soka\u011f\u0131nda, her kap\u0131s\u0131nda, her ta\u015f\u0131nda bir miras b\u0131rak\u0131yor. Me\u015fhur sinemalar\u0131 ve tiyatrolar\u0131yla bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr semti, leziz pastaneleriyle \u0130stanbul\u2019un tad\u0131 tuzu olurken, Taksim ve Beyo\u011fluspor kul\u00fcpleriyle sahalar\u0131n tozunu att\u0131r\u0131yordu. Lefter\u2019den Sabri Dino\u2019ya, Garbis Zakaryan\u2019dan David Kumru\u2019ya bir\u00e7ok alanda nice sporcu yeti\u015ftiren kul\u00fcpler bug\u00fcn ayn\u0131 semtte varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrse de ne adlar\u0131 ne varl\u0131klar\u0131 eskisi kadar biliniyor. \u00c7okana, bu durumu k\u00f6kenlerden kopmak olarak de\u011ferlendiriyor. \u201cBiz k\u00f6kenlerimizden koptuk, o y\u00fczden g\u00fczel \u015feyler geli\u015ftiremedik\u201d diyor.<\/p>\n
Sohbet sona do\u011fru yakla\u015f\u0131rken \u00c7okona\u2019ya 5 sene sonra nas\u0131l bir Beyo\u011flu tahayy\u00fcl etti\u011fini sordum. Yan\u0131t\u0131 benim tahayy\u00fcll\u00fcmden \u00e7ok da farkl\u0131 de\u011fildi ancak yine de \u00fcz\u00fcld\u00fcm. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu bizim yakla\u015fan ger\u00e7e\u011fimizdi:<\/p>\n
\u201c\u0130nsanlar\u0131n binalarla, sokaklarla ili\u015fkisi vard\u0131. \u00c7ocuklar sokaklarda oynarlard\u0131. \u0130nsanlar bilgisayarlar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na ge\u00e7ti\u011finden beri kentle fiziksel temas\u0131 yok. Fiziksel temas olmay\u0131nca da sevmezsin, kendine yak\u0131n bulmazs\u0131n. Bu konuda biraz umutsuzum. Birbirinin k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne benzemek iyi bir \u015fey de\u011fil. \u00d6zg\u00fcnl\u00fckler kayboluyor. \u015eu anda Vietnam ile Los Angeles\u2019da ya\u015fayan \u00e7ocuk hemen hemen ayn\u0131 \u015feyleri g\u00f6r\u00fcp ya\u015f\u0131yor. O yeni bir \u015fey \u00f6\u011fretemez art\u0131k. Gelene\u011finden kopmu\u015ftur. Tektiple\u015fme \u00e7ok k\u00f6t\u00fc bir \u015fey.\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\nBu sohbette di\u011ferleri gibi sonlanacak ancak ben bitirme niyetinde de\u011filim. O y\u00fczden bu f\u0131rsat\u0131 \u00c7okana\u2019ya veriyorum. O ise noktay\u0131 Beyo\u011flu\u2019nu kendi i\u00e7in \u00f6zel k\u0131lan \u015feyle koyuyor: \u00e7ocuklu\u011fu.<\/p>\n
\u201cBir insan\u0131n \u00e7ocuklu\u011fu g\u00fczel ge\u00e7tiyse \u015fayet ve o \u00e7ocukluk nerede ge\u00e7tiyse oray\u0131 y\u00fcceltir\u201d diyor \u00c7okana. \u201cBeyo\u011flu benim bir par\u00e7am\u201d diye devam ediyor:<\/p>\n
\u201c\u00c7irkinle\u015fse de,\u00a0 k\u00f6t\u00fcle\u015fse de yine sevmeye devam edece\u011fim. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc her soka\u011f\u0131nda bir an\u0131m var. Yolda y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck\u00e7e duvarlar, ta\u015flar tan\u0131d\u0131k geliyor. Binalar ya\u015flansa da ben onlar\u0131n gen\u00e7liklerini biliyorum. Onlar benim arkada\u015f\u0131m. Benim onlar\u2026\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\u00a9 The Independentturkish<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\nhttps:\/\/www.indyturk.com\/node\/373321\/haber\/i\u0307stanbul-semtleri-ah-beyo\u011flu-vah-beyo\u011flu-1<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Her \u015fey de\u011fi\u015fir. Zaman ge\u00e7er. Kimi buna geli\u015fmek der. Ben hala ne diyece\u011fini bilemeyenlerdenim. Beyo\u011flu da de\u011fi\u015fti. Kimisine g\u00f6re geli\u015fti. Bense d\u00fcnden bug\u00fcne bu semti Salah Birsel\u2019in tek bir c\u00fcmlesi ile anlatabiliyorum: Ah Beyo\u011flu vah Beyo\u011flu. Melike \u00c7apan \u0130ki yakal\u0131 \u015fehrin g\u00fcn i\u00e7erisinde en \u00e7ok misafiri a\u011f\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 semtiydi bir zamanlar. Pasajlar\u0131, tiyatrolar\u0131, sinemalar\u0131, pastaneleri ve […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":63304,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,34,70],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-63303","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-istanbul","category-makaleler"],"yoast_head":"\n
\u0130stanbul semtleri: Ah Beyo\u011flu vah Beyo\u011flu (1) - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=63303\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u0130stanbul semtleri: Ah Beyo\u011flu vah Beyo\u011flu (1) - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Her \u015fey de\u011fi\u015fir. Zaman ge\u00e7er. Kimi buna geli\u015fmek der. Ben hala ne diyece\u011fini bilemeyenlerdenim. Beyo\u011flu da de\u011fi\u015fti. Kimisine g\u00f6re geli\u015fti. Bense d\u00fcnden bug\u00fcne bu semti Salah Birsel\u2019in tek bir c\u00fcmlesi ile anlatabiliyorum: Ah Beyo\u011flu vah Beyo\u011flu. Melike \u00c7apan \u0130ki yakal\u0131 \u015fehrin g\u00fcn i\u00e7erisinde en \u00e7ok misafiri a\u011f\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 semtiydi bir zamanlar. 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Zaman ge\u00e7er. Kimi buna geli\u015fmek der. Ben hala ne diyece\u011fini bilemeyenlerdenim. Beyo\u011flu da de\u011fi\u015fti. Kimisine g\u00f6re geli\u015fti. Bense d\u00fcnden bug\u00fcne bu semti Salah Birsel\u2019in tek bir c\u00fcmlesi ile anlatabiliyorum: Ah Beyo\u011flu vah Beyo\u011flu. Melike \u00c7apan \u0130ki yakal\u0131 \u015fehrin g\u00fcn i\u00e7erisinde en \u00e7ok misafiri a\u011f\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 semtiydi bir zamanlar. 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![\"\"](\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/Beyo\u011flu-360x240.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"istiklal](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.indyturk.com\/sites\/default\/files\/styles\/800xauto\/public\/thumbnails\/image\/2021\/06\/14\/686611-690647134.jpg?ssl=1\" "\\"istiklal")
<\/figure>\n![\"beyo\u011flu](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.indyturk.com\/sites\/default\/files\/styles\/800xauto\/public\/thumbnails\/image\/2021\/06\/14\/686606-1651775558.jpg?ssl=1\" "\\"beyo\u011flu")
<\/figure>\n