![\"\"](\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Bergama-360x204.png\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
G\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131nlar\u0131n\u0131n beyaz mermerlere vurmas\u0131yla Roma\u2019n\u0131n koca tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 par\u0131ld\u0131yor Akropol\u2019de. Bat\u0131 Anadolu\u2019nun k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, bu an\u0131n i\u00e7erisine bin y\u0131llar\u0131 s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn, gelmi\u015f ve ge\u00e7mi\u015f her inanc\u0131 ve insanlar\u0131n\u0131, mabetlerini. Koca tarihin bir ana s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir mekan Bergama.\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Fatih S\u0131nar*<\/strong><\/p>\n Anadolu\u2019nun bat\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken ihti\u015faml\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131l duvarlar\u0131yla bir M\u0131s\u0131r tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131na denk geldim. \u015eehrin i\u00e7inde ulu bir mabet. M\u0131s\u0131r inanc\u0131n\u0131n Anadolu\u2019da kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k buldu\u011fu zamanlardan bir tan\u0131k bug\u00fcne. Devasa duvarlardan olu\u015fan yap\u0131 tekrar elden ge\u00e7iriliyor. Etrafta mermer par\u00e7alar\u0131, restorasyon tozlar\u0131. Bug\u00fcn\u00fcn Bergamal\u0131 i\u015f\u00e7ileri, binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6ncesindeki i\u015f\u00e7iler gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck mabedin duvarlar\u0131 aras\u0131nda emek harc\u0131yor. K\u0131z\u0131l duvarlardan birinin \u00f6n\u00fcnde yeni yap\u0131lan heykel, uzunca boylu aslan ba\u015fl\u0131 bir M\u0131s\u0131r tanr\u0131\u00e7as\u0131 dikiliyor. Tanr\u0131\u00e7a Sekhmet\u2019in heykeli oldu\u011fu yaz\u0131yor \u00f6n\u00fcndeki ta\u015fta. M\u0131s\u0131r k\u00fclt\u00fcne inananlar\u0131n oldu\u011fu vakitlerde m\u00fcminleri selaml\u0131yordu belki de bu sava\u015f ve \u015fifa tanr\u0131\u00e7as\u0131\u2026 Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n, alt\u0131ndan akan \u00e7ay\u0131n \u00fczerinde kurulu oldu\u011fundan bahseder Nedim G\u00fcrsel, Derin Anadolu kitab\u0131nda. Sonras\u0131nda Anadolu\u2019da kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k bulan ba\u015fka bir inanc\u0131n mabedine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f, H\u0131ristiyanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ilk kiliselerinden olmu\u015f. Baz\u0131lar\u0131, \u0130ncil\u2019de ad\u0131 ge\u00e7en yedi kiliseden biri say\u0131lan Bergama kilisesinin, somut olarak bu yap\u0131 oldu\u011funu anlat\u0131r. Anadolu co\u011frafyas\u0131ndaki bir\u00e7ok mabet gibi her inanc\u0131 a\u011f\u0131rlam\u0131\u015f ba\u011fr\u0131nda anla\u015f\u0131lan.<\/p>\n \u015eehrin minarelerinden ezan sesleri y\u00fckseliyor. Ezan\u0131n notalar\u0131n\u0131 takip eder gibi ba\u015f\u0131m\u0131 g\u00f6\u011fe kald\u0131r\u0131yorum K\u0131z\u0131l Avlu\u2019da. G\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131nlar\u0131n\u0131n beyaz mermerlere vurmas\u0131yla Roma\u2019n\u0131n koca tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 par\u0131ld\u0131yor Akropol\u2019de. Bat\u0131 Anadolu\u2019nun k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, bu an\u0131n i\u00e7erisine bin y\u0131llar\u0131 s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn, gelmi\u015f ve ge\u00e7mi\u015f her inanc\u0131 ve insanlar\u0131n\u0131, mabetlerini. Koca tarihin bir ana s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir mekan Bergama.<\/p>\n \u0130zmir\u2019den belediyeye ait bir otob\u00fcsle yol al\u0131yorum buraya. Ege\u2019nin Anadolu\u2019ya sokulan berrak koylar\u0131n\u0131 Alia\u011fa\u2019n\u0131n dev fabrikalar\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kan dumanlar bo\u011fuyor. Zeytin bah\u00e7elerinden bacalar y\u00fckseliyor civarda. Homeros\u2019un anlatt\u0131klar\u0131ndan, Do\u011fu Roma ve Osmanl\u0131 zamanlar\u0131ndan \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 bu Ege. \u00c7andarl\u0131\u2019ya do\u011fru mavi Ege\u2019yi buluyorum yeniden. Yol boyunca Bak\u0131r\u00e7ay\u2019\u0131n, eski ismiyle Kaikos\u2019un verimli tarlalar\u0131nda \u00e7ift\u00e7iler \u00fcr\u00fcnlerinin ba\u015f\u0131nda. Birka\u00e7 ki\u015finin oldu\u011fu otob\u00fcs ad\u0131m ad\u0131m yakla\u015f\u0131yor Bergama\u2019ya. Yaln\u0131z yola d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015fseniz e\u011fer, do\u011fan\u0131n nefesiyle, co\u011frafyan\u0131n hikayesiyle ve \u015fehirlerin g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcs\u00fcyle ba\u015f ba\u015fas\u0131n\u0131z demektir ve de kendinizle. Albert Camus\u2019n\u00fcn 22\u2019sindeyken notlar\u0131na d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc gibi \u201c\u0130nsan kendi kendisiyle kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131yad\u0131r art\u0131k. Hadi mutlu olsun da g\u00f6relim! Gene de yolculuk bu yan\u0131yla ayd\u0131nlat\u0131r insan\u0131.\u201d<\/p>\n Bak\u0131r\u00e7ay\u2019\u0131n kenar\u0131nda y\u00fcksek\u00e7e bir tepenin ete\u011finde kurulu kadim memlekete var\u0131yorum sonunda. \u015eehirler m\u00fczik gibidir asl\u0131nda, sokaklar\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken hayat\u0131n notalar\u0131 daha kolay girer ruha. Kald\u0131r\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131 ad\u0131mlarken belki duyar diye \u00f6yk\u00fcn\u00fcz\u00fc anlat\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z, dertlerinize ortak yapars\u0131n\u0131z ta\u015flar\u0131, panjurlar\u0131, a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131. Dilsiz duvarlar da \u015fehri f\u0131s\u0131ldar size. Ba\u011f kurars\u0131n\u0131z. Yolculuklar kitab\u0131nda Antonio Tabucchi\u2019nin bahsetti\u011fi gibi \u201cBir yer hi\u00e7bir zaman yaln\u0131z oras\u0131 de\u011fildir, oras\u0131 biraz da biziz\u201d\u2026 Bergama sokaklar\u0131nda biraz dola\u015ft\u0131ktan sonra \u015ead\u0131rvan Camisi\u2019nin avlusuna ge\u00e7iyorum bu s\u00f6z\u00fc zihnimde tekrarlayarak. Anadolu\u2019yu dola\u015f\u0131yorsa yolcu, ulu \u00e7\u0131narlar\u0131n alt\u0131nda soluklanmal\u0131 biraz. Mekan\u0131 sindirmeli. \u00c7\u0131nar\u0131n alt\u0131nda dinlenirken, Bergama\u2019n\u0131n eski bir masal\u0131 d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc akl\u0131ma; iki ihtiyar Philemon ile Baukis\u2019in hikayesi. Halikarnas Bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 \u201c\u0130nsan\u0131n insanc\u0131l yan\u0131n\u0131 ortaya koyan mitlerden biri\u201d olarak bahseder bu \u00f6yk\u00fcden, Anadolu Efsaneleri kitab\u0131nda.<\/p>\n Zeus, Olimpos\u2019ta s\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda eski p\u00fcsk\u00fc elbiseler giyip s\u0131radan bir insan gibi halk\u0131n aras\u0131na kar\u0131\u015f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Yan\u0131nda da Hermes olurmu\u015f. Bir g\u00fcn Misya dolaylar\u0131nda bir \u015fehre gelmi\u015fler, kap\u0131 kap\u0131 dola\u015f\u0131p kendilerini a\u011f\u0131rlayacak bir aile aram\u0131\u015flar. Her \u00e7ald\u0131klar\u0131 kap\u0131 y\u00fczlerine kapanm\u0131\u015f. Dilenci san\u0131l\u0131p horlanan Zeus insanlar\u0131n bencilce yakla\u015f\u0131m\u0131na iyiden iyiye sinirlenmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. Sonunda derme \u00e7atma bir kul\u00fcbede ya\u015fayan ya\u015fl\u0131 \u00e7iftin kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7alm\u0131\u015f Olimposlu iki tanr\u0131. Birbirilerini \u00e7ok seven Baukis ile Philemon imi\u015f bu ihtiyarlar. Dilenci sand\u0131klar\u0131 Zeus ve Hermes\u2019i, fukara evlerinde \u015feref konu\u011fu gibi a\u011f\u0131rlam\u0131\u015flar. Zeus bu misafirperverli\u011fe pek sevinmi\u015f, ya\u015fl\u0131 \u00e7ifte kendini a\u00e7\u0131k etmi\u015f. \u201cEy iyi insanlar! Konukseverli\u011finiz m\u00fckafats\u0131z kalmayacak. Dileyin benden ne dilerseniz\u201d diyerek onlar\u0131 onurland\u0131rmak istemi\u015f. Birbirlerini \u00e7ok seven ya\u015fl\u0131 \u00e7ift, birbirlerinin yoklu\u011funu ya\u015famamak i\u00e7in ayn\u0131 anda \u00f6lmeyi ve \u00f6ld\u00fckten sonra da birlikte olmay\u0131 dilemi\u015fler. Dilekleri kabul olmu\u015f. Bir g\u00fcn avluda otururlarken kollar\u0131ndan yapraklar\u0131yla dallar filizlenmeye, g\u00f6vdeleri kabuklanmaya ve yere k\u00f6k salmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. El ele tutu\u015furlarken tek k\u00f6kten iki g\u00f6vdeli a\u011faca d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f sevgililer. Bug\u00fcn o a\u011fa\u00e7 yar\u0131s\u0131 \u0131hlamur yar\u0131s\u0131 \u00e7\u0131nar olarak Bak\u0131r\u00e7ay\u2019\u0131n yelinde yapraklar\u0131n\u0131 h\u0131\u015f\u0131rdat\u0131yor h\u00e2l\u00e2. D\u00fcnya var olduk\u00e7a Philemon ve Baukis\u2019in sevgisi ya\u015fayacak b\u00f6ylece.<\/p>\n Bergama ya da antik kaynaklardaki ismiyle Pergamon, vaktiyle d\u00fcnyan\u0131n say\u0131l\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezlerinden biriydi. Filozoflar\u0131, hekimleri, mimarlar\u0131 \u00e7ekiyordu kendine. \u0130skenderiye ile rekabette, par\u015f\u00f6menin mucidi ki hatta ona ismini vermi\u015f \u015fehirdi. Eski, bak\u0131ms\u0131z yap\u0131la\u015fmayla ge\u00e7mi\u015fteki o al\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 kaybetmi\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnse de, sokaklar\u0131na gizlenmi\u015f ipu\u00e7lar\u0131 sayesinde zaman yapbozu tamamlan\u0131yor ad\u0131m ad\u0131m. Hayallere d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyorum, sorularla birlikte. Acaba Bergama\u2019n\u0131n kral\u0131 ki vaktiyle t\u00fcm Bat\u0131 Anadolu\u2019ya h\u00fckmetmi\u015f Attalos, \u015fehrinin iki bin y\u0131l sonra nas\u0131l g\u00f6r\u00fcnece\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f m\u00fcyd\u00fc? Sonra, bin y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde de\u011fi\u015fen Bergamal\u0131lara bak\u0131yorum. \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131da, Yeni Cami\u2019nin \u00e7apraz\u0131ndaki esnaf\u0131n Attalos\u2019tan haberi var m\u0131yd\u0131, \u00f6mr\u00fcn\u00fc ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi \u015fehri d\u00fcnyan\u0131n merkezlerinden biri yapan b\u00fcy\u00fck kraldan? Ya da dokumac\u0131 Fatma Teyze \u015fifan\u0131n memleketinde ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 biliyor muydu, hekimlerin babas\u0131 Bergamal\u0131 Galen\u2019i duymu\u015f muydu? Peki ya tepeden t\u00fcm par\u0131lt\u0131s\u0131yla \u015fehre yans\u0131yan tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n adand\u0131\u011f\u0131 imparator Trajan\u2019\u0131 ne kadar tan\u0131yordu Bergamal\u0131lar? Ac\u0131 ama co\u011frafyan\u0131n kaderi burada da h\u00fckm\u00fcn\u00fc vermi\u015f anla\u015f\u0131lan. Say\u0131s\u0131z par\u015f\u00f6menle dolu k\u00fct\u00fcphaneden, g\u00f6rkemli saraydan, Attalos\u2019un y\u00fcceltti\u011fi Bergama\u2019dan geriye pek bir \u015fey kalmam\u0131\u015f. Sadece ta\u015flar ve izler.<\/p>\n Bir \u015fehre u\u011fran\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda e\u011fer varsa y\u00fcksek\u00e7e bir yere \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p o memleket izlenmeli. Ben de \u015fehrin tepesine, en korunakl\u0131 merkezine, Pergamon\u2019un akropol\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum ikindi saatleri. Tepeyi dolana dolana bir yol ula\u015f\u0131yor buraya. Y\u00fcr\u00fcmekten pek ho\u015flanmayan modern turistler i\u00e7inse elbette alternatif \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm bulmu\u015flar, teleferik ile Akropol\u2019e \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f sa\u011flan\u0131yor. Tepeye var\u0131nca, kal\u0131n surlar\u0131ndan i\u00e7eriye, Trajan Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\u2019na do\u011fru ilerliyorum. Sol taraf\u0131mda Zeus Suna\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 b\u0131rak\u0131yorum. Sunak, Berlin\u2019de m\u00fczede bug\u00fcn. Yerinde ulu bir a\u011fac\u0131n yapraklar\u0131n\u0131 sall\u0131yor esen yel. Mesleklerini yapan eski d\u00fckkanlar\u0131 ge\u00e7iyorum hayal ederek. \u00d6tedeki tepeden \u015fehre su ta\u015f\u0131yan y\u0131k\u0131k kemerler g\u00f6z\u00fcme \u00e7arp\u0131yor. Dev u\u00e7uruma kurulu, s\u0131rt\u0131n\u0131 tepeye yaslam\u0131\u015f, tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde yer alan tiyatroya var\u0131yorum. Arka s\u0131ralar\u0131nda bir koltukta yerimi al\u0131yorum, \u00f6n\u00fcmde sahne, \u00f6tesinde ovaya do\u011fru kabaca, bi\u00e7imsiz yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bug\u00fcn\u00fcn Bergama\u2019s\u0131. Say\u0131s\u0131z hik\u00e2yenin co\u011frafyas\u0131 Anadolu \u015fehrinin bug\u00fcn betona bo\u011fulmu\u015f bu h\u00e2li \u00fcz\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n \u00dcniversiteli \u00fc\u00e7 gen\u00e7 oturuyor yan\u0131ma tiyatroda. \u0130zmir\u2019den otob\u00fcse binerek gelmi\u015fler. G\u00fcn\u00fcbirlik zaman yolculu\u011funa \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015flar anla\u015f\u0131lan, solu\u011fu akropolde tiyatronun arka s\u0131ralar\u0131nda alm\u0131\u015flar benim gibi. Gen\u00e7lerden birinin Anadolu\u2019yu ke\u015ffetme hayali var. Co\u011frafyay\u0131 tan\u0131mak istiyor; inan\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131, halklar\u0131n\u0131, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel katmanlar\u0131n\u0131, siyasi \u00e7\u0131kmazlar\u0131n\u0131, y\u00f6netenlerini, y\u00f6netilenlerini. As\u0131rlar\u0131n yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 toprak ne de olsa diyoruz.<\/p>\n Mabetlerin aras\u0131nda, iki bin y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinin k\u00fclt\u00fcr metropol\u00fcnden bug\u00fcn\u00fcn kendi halinde bir \u015fehrine zaman yolculu\u011fuydu Bergama\u2019daki g\u00fcn\u00fcm. Kadim mekan\u0131n uyumsuz beton vaziyeti buruk bir duygu b\u0131raksa da co\u011frafyan\u0131n ruhu her zaman kendini hissettiriyor.<\/p>\n *Sosyolog\/Seyahat yazar\u0131<\/em><\/p>\n https:\/\/hyetert.org\/2021\/02\/11\/bergama-zamanin-sahnesi\/\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" G\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131nlar\u0131n\u0131n beyaz mermerlere vurmas\u0131yla Roma\u2019n\u0131n koca tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 par\u0131ld\u0131yor Akropol\u2019de. Bat\u0131 Anadolu\u2019nun k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, bu an\u0131n i\u00e7erisine bin y\u0131llar\u0131 s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn, gelmi\u015f ve ge\u00e7mi\u015f her inanc\u0131 ve insanlar\u0131n\u0131, mabetlerini. Koca tarihin bir ana s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir mekan Bergama.\u00a0 Fatih S\u0131nar* Anadolu\u2019nun bat\u0131 k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken ihti\u015faml\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131l duvarlar\u0131yla bir M\u0131s\u0131r tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131na denk geldim. \u015eehrin i\u00e7inde ulu […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":61470,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-61469","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler"],"yoast_head":"\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/i.gazeteduvar.com.tr\/storage\/files\/images\/2021\/02\/10\/kizil-avlu-akropol-qlal.jpg?ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/i.gazeteduvar.com.tr\/storage\/files\/images\/2021\/02\/10\/tanrica-sekhmet-JgIH.jpg?ssl=1\")
ZEYT\u0130NL\u0130KLERDEN Y\u00dcKSELEN BACALAR<\/h2>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/i.gazeteduvar.com.tr\/storage\/files\/images\/2021\/02\/10\/bergama-Wp0H.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\nEBED\u0130 SEVG\u0130N\u0130N MASALI<\/h3>\n
TA\u015eLAR VE \u0130ZLER<\/h4>\n
TAPINA\u011eIN G\u00d6LGES\u0130NDE D\u00dc\u015eLEMEK<\/h5>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/i.gazeteduvar.com.tr\/storage\/files\/images\/2021\/02\/10\/zeus-sunagi-yeri-Iv1S.jpg?ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/i.gazeteduvar.com.tr\/storage\/files\/images\/2021\/02\/10\/tiyatro-2SI0.jpg?ssl=1\")