Fatih T\u00fcrkmeno\u011flu<\/strong><\/p>\nBuras\u0131 sanki \u201ci\u00e7inden \u0130stanbul ge\u00e7en bir \u0130zmir\u201d. Baz\u0131 sokaklar\u0131 kalabal\u0131k, karma\u015f\u0131k; deniz kenar\u0131, hani neredeyse \u0130zmir. Eski us\u00fcl ma\u011fazalar, eski moda k\u0131yafetli ya\u015fl\u0131larla T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin 60\u2019lar\u0131n\u0131n hayat\u0131ndan esintiler, birden kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zda beliren Osmanl\u0131 izlerine kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Deniz, bildik deniz, p\u00fcf\u00fcr p\u00fcf\u00fcr Ege kokuyor. Sadece 330 bin n\u00fcfuslu Selanik merkezi, gezmekle bitmiyor.<\/p>\n
Bu \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc gidi\u015fim Selanik\u2019e. \u0130lk seyahatimi hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum da, pek etkilenmemi\u015ftim galiba. \u0130\u015fte, herhangi bir deniz kenar\u0131 \u015fehriymi\u015f gibi hissettim. Y\u00fczeysel kalm\u0131\u015f, bir iki iyi lokanta ve Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn Evi\u2019ni g\u00f6r\u00fcp d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcm.<\/p>\n
\u00dc\u00e7, be\u015f sene evvel bir \u015fans daha do\u011fdu; bu kez \u015fehrin kalbine dokundum. Sonra ge\u00e7enlerde bir Selanik gezisi daha; tamam, i\u015fte bu sefer \u015fehrin ruhu benli\u011fimi sarm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Magma tabakas\u0131na kadar inmi\u015f, M.\u00d6. 315\u2019te ilk kuruldu\u011fundan bu yana ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi t\u00fcm evreleri hissetmi\u015ftim. M\u00fcbadeleyle, b\u00fcy\u00fck yang\u0131nla, Nazi kamplar\u0131na g\u00f6nderilen Yahudilerle ac\u0131 \u00e7ekmi\u015ftim. Bizans, Roma ve Osmanl\u0131\u2019y\u0131 ya\u015fam\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Ben, Selanik olmu\u015ftum.<\/p>\n
Hen\u00fcz d\u00f6nd\u00fcm \u0130stanbul\u2019a. Hala \u201cSelanik \u00e7arpmas\u0131\u201d ya\u015f\u0131yorum. O basit g\u00f6r\u00fcnen ya\u015fam\u0131n sonsuz derinli\u011fini, o kap\u0131lar\u0131nda body-guardlar\u0131n beklemedi\u011fi \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131n gece hayat\u0131n\u0131, o f\u0131\u015ff\u0131\u015fl\u0131 olmayan c\u0131v\u0131lt\u0131y\u0131 hala i\u00e7imde ta\u015f\u0131yorum. Bir taraf\u0131yla hala masumiyet \u00e7a\u011f\u0131nda ya\u015fayan Selanik\u2019i hi\u00e7 akl\u0131mdan \u00e7\u0131kartam\u0131yorum. Sanki \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumun Tarabyas\u0131\u2019ndan bir sokak ge\u00e7ip, Dario Moreno\u2019nun \u0130zmir\u2019ine dal\u0131yorum\u2026<\/p>\n
YUNAN\u0130STAN\u2019IN \u0130K\u0130NC\u0130 B\u00dcY\u00dcK \u015eEHR\u0130<\/strong><\/p>\nSelanik, Yunanistan\u2019\u0131n ikinci b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehri. \u201cB\u00fcy\u00fck\u201d dediysem, akl\u0131n\u0131za iti\u015f kak\u0131\u015f bir kalabal\u0131k gelmesin sak\u0131n. \u015eehir merkezinin n\u00fcfusu 330 bin civar\u0131nda. Banliy\u00f6leri ve \u015fehir merkezinde olmayan il\u00e7eleriyle birlikte t\u00fcm n\u00fcfus ancak 1 milyona yakla\u015f\u0131yor. Buna ra\u011fmen, Atina siyasi merkezse, Selanik \u00fclkenin \u201ck\u00fclt\u00fcrel merkezi\u201d. Bir\u00e7ok \u00f6nemli festivale ev sahipli\u011fi yap\u0131yor. \u00d6zellikle Selanik Sinema Festivali ile, \u015fehir, her y\u0131l d\u00fcnyan\u0131n her k\u00f6\u015fesinden gelen film tutkunlar\u0131n\u0131 ve end\u00fcstrinin \u00f6nde gelen isimlerini a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131yor. T\u00fcm \u00f6nemli sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n konserleri, sergileri mutlaka burada ba\u015fl\u0131yor veya buradan da ge\u00e7iyor.<\/p>\n
Son y\u0131llar\u0131n en pop\u00fcler turistik \u015fehirlerinden biri. Selanik\u2019in bir\u00e7ok b\u00f6lgesi, \u00e7ok say\u0131da imza yap\u0131s\u0131, UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde. 2014 y\u0131l\u0131nda Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n \u201cGen\u00e7lik Ba\u015fkenti\u201d se\u00e7ildi. Selanik yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki t\u00fcm \u00fclkenin en iyi ve en bakir sayfiye yerlerinden biri olan Halkidiki\u2019den olan b\u00fcy\u00fck filozof Aristo\u2019nun ad\u0131n\u0131 alan Aristo \u00dcniversitesi de, Yunanistan\u2019\u0131n ve Balkanlar\u2019\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00fcniversitelerinden.<\/p>\n
Selanik bug\u00fcn t\u00fcm Avrupa\u2019da \u201cmetrekareye d\u00fc\u015fen en y\u00fcksek oranda cafe ve bar\u201d olan \u015fehir. Evet, ekonomik kriz var; ama bunu gecelerde anlaman\u0131z m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. G\u00fcnd\u00fczleri kapanan i\u015fyerleri, iflas etmi\u015f d\u00fckkanlar g\u00f6ze \u00e7arpsa da, ak\u015famlarda gen\u00e7ler, e\u011flence, m\u00fczik ve kahkaha var. Bir\u00e7ok gezi sitesine, blogger\u2019a, hatta Lonely Planet\u2019a g\u00f6re, Selanik \u201cultimate party city\u201d, yani \u201csabah kadar dans!\u201d<\/p>\n
\u0130lk bak\u0131\u015fta birbirine \u00e7ok benzeyen iki toplum\u2026 Tamam \u00e7orba i\u00e7miyorlar, pek fazla bildi\u011fimiz tencere yemekleri yapm\u0131yorlar, ama lokantalarda yenen yemekler neredeyse ayn\u0131; kahve tepsileri ve sohbetleri, e\u015fiklerde saatlerce oturmalar, ac\u0131kl\u0131 ve yandan yandan \u015fark\u0131lar, dakikalarca s\u00fcren ve mide kramplar\u0131na sokan kahkahalar, sinirlendi\u011fimiz zamanki \u201cd\u00fcnyay\u0131 yakar\u0131mvari\u201d tav\u0131rlar\u2026 Ancak yine de bariz farkl\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 ke\u015ffediyorsunuz zamanla. \u00d6rne\u011fin sabahlar\u0131 art\u0131k \u201cYunan kahvesi\u201d dedikleri T\u00fcrk kahvesi, yan\u0131nda bir k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kurabiye, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir bardak su ve bir sigara i\u00e7meden g\u00fcne at\u0131lamayan Yunanl\u0131lar, saat 2 gibi evlerine \u00e7ekilmezlerse titremeye ba\u015fl\u0131yorlar neredeyse. Paraya ne kadar ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131 olursa olsun, potansiyel m\u00fc\u015fteriler kap\u0131 d\u0131\u015far\u0131 at\u0131l\u0131p d\u00fckkanlar\u0131n kap\u0131lar\u0131na kilit vuruluyor. \u00d6\u011flen 14.00, hayat duruyor. Belki bir sokak tavernas\u0131nda bir kadeh uzo e\u015fli\u011finde hafif mezeler yeniyor. Neredeyse be\u015f, hatta alt\u0131 saat \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmaktan yorgun d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f Selanikli, sohbet ve hafif i\u00e7kiyle rahatl\u0131yor. Sonras\u0131nda siesta zaman\u0131. \u015eehir k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ya, hemen evlere ka\u00e7\u0131labiliyor. Odalar\u0131n panjurlar\u0131, perdeleri s\u0131k\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131 kapan\u0131yor. Telefonlar kapat\u0131l\u0131yor. En az bir saatlik uyku sonras\u0131, g\u00fcn\u00fcn ikinci du\u015fu al\u0131n\u0131yor. Di\u015fler tekrar f\u0131r\u00e7alan\u0131yor, kremler s\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcyor, sa\u00e7lar taran\u0131yor. Yeni g\u00f6mlekler ve jilet gibi \u00fct\u00fclenmi\u015f jeanlerle, \u201cfrappe\u201d dedikleri buzlu haz\u0131r kahve veya yeni icat \u201cbuzlu cappucino\u201d i\u00e7menin zaman\u0131n\u0131 yakal\u0131yorlar. Tabii ya\u011fs\u0131z s\u00fctl\u00fc, \u015fekersiz veya tatland\u0131r\u0131c\u0131l\u0131. Saat 5 dediniz mi de, cafeler doluyor. Kad\u0131nlar\u0131n g\u00fczellikleri, can yak\u0131c\u0131 k\u0131yafetleri, i\u015fvelerini anlatmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil\u2026<\/p>\n
Ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi ya evde ya d\u0131\u015far\u0131da, m\u00fcmk\u00fcn oldu\u011funca ge\u00e7 saatte yeniyor. Orta karar kazanan bir Selanikli, haftada en az iki gece de \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. \u201cGece \u00e7\u0131kmak\u201d, genellikle 23.00\u2019dan sonra d\u0131\u015far\u0131larda olmak anlam\u0131nda kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. Baz\u0131 Yunan m\u00fczi\u011fi yapan gece kul\u00fcpleri, kap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 ancak gece yar\u0131s\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131yorlar. Bizim eski us\u00fcl gazinolarda, sabaha kar\u015f\u0131 02.00, mek\u00e2nlar\u0131n en hit \u015fark\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 sahneye \u00e7\u0131kartt\u0131klar\u0131 zaman. O tarz yerlerde inan\u0131lmaz g\u00fczel \u015fovlar, sabah 07.00\u2019a kadar konuklara bir hayal d\u00fcnyas\u0131 ya\u015fat\u0131yor. G\u00fcl yapra\u011f\u0131 sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131, yasak olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen herkesin elinde yanan sigaralar, sanat\u00e7\u0131ya \u015fampanya g\u00f6nderme, pe\u00e7ete atma ve kendinden ge\u00e7erek \u015fark\u0131lara kat\u0131lma\u2026 \u00c7a\u011fda\u015f Yunan tragedyalar\u0131n\u0131n ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerler sanki. \u201cK\u00f6pek havlamas\u0131\u201d anlam\u0131na gelen, ama son y\u0131llarda m\u00fczik kalitesinde \u201ctop\u201d olan \u201cSkiladiko\u201dlar, bence Selanik gece hayat\u0131n\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmez bir rengi.<\/p>\n
Yunanl\u0131lar\u2019\u0131, Yunanistan\u2019\u0131 sevmemek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Truva Sava\u015flar\u0131 sonras\u0131nda s\u00f6ylenen \u201cBir Yunanl\u0131\u2019ya asla g\u00fcvenme\u201d bence bo\u015f laf. Nas\u0131l sevmezsin, nas\u0131l g\u00fcvenmezsin, nas\u0131l daha iyi olmalar\u0131n\u0131 istemezsin ki? Aynada g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn aksin kadar sana yak\u0131n. Ama senin biraz daha Akdeniz\u2019lin, daha bir z\u0131p\u0131r, daha tembel, daha fl\u00f6rt\u00f6z, daha y\u00fcksek sesli ve \u00e7ok konu\u015fan yan\u0131n\u2026<\/p>\n
Ve bir arkada\u015f\u0131m\u0131n babas\u0131n\u0131n s\u00f6yledi\u011fi bir laf\u0131, her f\u0131rsatta hat\u0131rlad\u0131m, her defas\u0131nda da kendi kendime g\u00fcl\u00fcmsedi: \u201cYunanl\u0131 kimdir? Yunanl\u0131, kendini \u0130talyan zanneden T\u00fcrk\u2019t\u00fcr!\u201d<\/p>\n
Sonra da \u0130talyanlar\u0131n s\u00f6yledi\u011fi \u201cuna faccia, una razza\u201d laf\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlad\u0131m. Sanki daha do\u011fru. T\u00fcrk, \u0130talyan, Yunanl\u0131; o kadar benzer, o kadar birbirine girmi\u015f ki. S\u00f6z\u00fcn \u00f6z\u00fc, biz asl\u0131nda ayn\u0131 denizin, ayn\u0131 r\u00fczgar\u0131n, ayn\u0131 topra\u011f\u0131n insan\u0131y\u0131z\u2026<\/p>\n
NE YAPILIR?<\/p>\n
\n- Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn do\u011fdu\u011fu evi mutlaka ziyaret edin. Y\u0131llard\u0131r restorasyon \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 devam ediyor, ama bu yaz ortas\u0131na art\u0131k tamamlanaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6ylediler. G\u00f6revliler son derece kibar ve sevecenler. T\u00fcrk Konsoloslu\u011fu\u2019nun hemen yan\u0131nda.<\/li>\n
- Aristo Meydan\u0131, \u015fehrin kalbinin att\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer. \u00c7ok geni\u015f, \u00e7ok canl\u0131 bir meydan.<\/li>\n
- Deniz boyunca y\u00fcr\u00fcmeyi ihmal etmeyin. Harika bir yol ve \u015fehri a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 yukar\u0131 anlay\u0131p kafan\u0131zda adresleri i\u015faretleyebiliyorsunuz.<\/li>\n
- \u00c7ok say\u0131da Osmanl\u0131 eseri kalmam\u0131\u015f ne yaz\u0131k ki. Yang\u0131n, bombalar, biraz da ilgisizlikle, \u015fehrin Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminin izleri bir d\u00f6nem \u201ckasten\u201d unutulmu\u015f. Ama Yeni Cami, inan\u0131lmaz g\u00fczel bir yap\u0131. Posellini\u2019nin eseri. \u0130n\u015fas\u0131 1903\u2019te tamamlanm\u0131\u015f. Sonradan M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 se\u00e7enlerin camisi oldu\u011fundan \u201cd\u00f6nme cami\u201d ad\u0131yla da an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/li>\n
- Alaca \u0130maret, bence Selanik\u2019teki en g\u00fczel Osmanl\u0131 yap\u0131s\u0131. 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. \u0130badet yerleri olmayan Selanikli T\u00fcrk az\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131n arzusu, oran\u0131n tekrar cami olarak a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131.<\/li>\n
- Gene Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminden kalan Yahudi Hamam\u0131, g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer.<\/li>\n
- \n
\n- y\u00fczy\u0131lda, 2. Mehmet taraf\u0131ndan in\u015fa ettirilen Bezesten, o d\u00f6nemlerde \u015fehrin tek pazar\u0131. Yap\u0131 yang\u0131nlarda \u00e7ok zarar g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f, restore edilmi\u015f. Mutlaka g\u00f6r\u00fclmeli.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n
- Bizans K\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc M\u00fczesi mutlaka gezilmeli.<\/li>\n
- Selanik Arkeoloji M\u00fczesi\u2019ni de g\u00f6rmeden d\u00f6nmeyin.<\/li>\n
- Selanik\u2019te \u00e7ok say\u0131da kilise var. Ama inan\u0131lmaz g\u00f6steri\u015fli olan Ayios Dimitrios Kilisesi ve Osmanl\u0131lar d\u00f6neminde cami olarak da kullan\u0131lan Aya Sofya\u2019n\u0131n yerleri apayr\u0131. Her ikisi de \u00e7ok ayr\u0131cal\u0131kl\u0131 yap\u0131lar.<\/li>\n
- Beyaz Kule veya Lefkos Pirgos, Selanik\u2019in simgesi. Kanuni d\u00f6neminde in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Rengi beyaza d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclerek bir nevi \u201cvaftiz\u201d edilmi\u015f. \u015eehrin en g\u00fczel noktalar\u0131ndan birinde.<\/li>\n
- 300l\u00fc y\u0131llarda in\u015fa edilen Rotonda, mutlaka g\u00f6r\u00fclmeli.<\/li>\n
- Roma d\u00f6nemi saray kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131, \u015fehrin ortas\u0131nda.<\/li>\n
- Yine 300lerde, Sezar Galerious\u2019a atfen yap\u0131lan ark, Selaniklilerin bulu\u015fma noktalar\u0131ndan.<\/li>\n
- Selanik belediye binas\u0131, bir mimari dehan\u0131n eseri. Mutlaka gezin; kap\u0131da kontrol falan yok. Ayr\u0131ca ben belediye ba\u015fkan\u0131 Yiannis Boutaris\u2019le de tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. 78 ya\u015f\u0131nda, d\u00f6vmeli, k\u00fcpeli, yoga yapan, bisiklete binen bir T\u00fcrk dostu. Kahve i\u00e7tik ve birbirimize sar\u0131larak vedala\u015ft\u0131k.<\/li>\n
- Halkidiki, mutlaka g\u00f6r\u00fclmeli. Selanik otob\u00fcs gar\u0131ndan kalkan otob\u00fcslerle, nereye gidece\u011finize ba\u011fl\u0131 olarak 2-4 saatte ula\u015fabilirsiniz. \u00dc\u00e7 parmakl\u0131 bir ele benzetilen bu yar\u0131mada, t\u00fcm Yunanistan\u2019\u0131n en bozulmam\u0131\u015f tatil beldesi. \u00dc\u00e7 parmaktan biri Aynaroz, sadece ke\u015fi\u015flerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 manast\u0131rlar var. Kad\u0131nlar giremiyor. Orada yap\u0131lan \u015faraplar \u00e7ok lezzetli, Halkidiki\u2019nin di\u011fer b\u00f6lgelerinde sat\u0131l\u0131yor. Yar\u0131madan\u0131n \u201cBodrum\u201du Kassandra. Asl\u0131nda apayr\u0131 bir yaz\u0131 konusu, \u015fimdi \u00f6zellikle detaya girmiyorum.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f: T\u00fcm \u015fehir y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek rahatl\u0131kla ke\u015ffediliyor. Tsimiski ve Proxanou Caddeleri, tam \u015f\u0131k ma\u011fazalar\u0131n g\u00fczel kafelerin oldu\u011fu yerler. Ni\u015fanta\u015f\u0131 gibi diyebiliriz. T\u00fcm markalar oralarda. Tabii Benizelous ve Solomou caddelerinin kesi\u015fti\u011fi yerdeki \u201cBezesteni\u201d de es ge\u00e7ilmemeli. Peynir \u00e7e\u015fitleri ve iyi bala merakl\u0131ysan\u0131z, civardaki d\u00fckk\u00e2nlarda \u00e7ok uygun fiyatlara bulacaks\u0131n\u0131z. Bir de Selanik, daha do\u011frusu t\u00fcm Yunanistan, bir kahve memleketi. Her t\u00fcr kahve bulmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Sadece kahve satan d\u00fckkanlar var; tiryakilerin ho\u015funa gidecek\u2026 Son olarak da uzo, \u015farap ve sak\u0131z lik\u00f6r\u00fc derim. Bence Yunanistan gezilerinin vazge\u00e7ilmezleri.<\/p>\n
Yeme \u2013 i\u00e7me: Selanik, bir yeme i\u00e7me ba\u015fkenti. \u0130nan\u0131lmaz \u00e7ok say\u0131da lokanta ve kafe var. Deniz \u00fcr\u00fcnleri ve bal\u0131k lokantalar\u0131 bence bir numara. Glikanisos, Frutti di Mare ve 7 Seas, m\u00fcthi\u015f mutfaklar\u0131yla ba\u015f d\u00f6nd\u00fcr\u00fcyor. 7 Seas\u2019de havyarl\u0131 levrek tartar, pesto soslu karides, incir tatl\u0131l\u0131 bal\u0131k yumurtas\u0131, \u015fehriyeli yenge\u00e7 baca\u011f\u0131 ve alabal\u0131k ve dil fileto yedim. \u0130nan\u0131lmazd\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n
Yunan mutfa\u011f\u0131, hani bolca meze ve beyaz peynirli \u00e7oban salatas\u0131, kalamar, karides, anneanne usul\u00fc patates k\u0131zartmas\u0131 ve k\u00f6fte, susuz cac\u0131k yemek isterseniz, Panellinion, Plaisir veya Myrsini\u2019yi \u00f6neririm.<\/p>\n
Ayr\u0131ca \u00e7ok say\u0131da barbek\u00fc lokantas\u0131, Arjantin mutfa\u011f\u0131, Frans\u0131z f\u00fczyon lokantalar\u0131 da var. Ben onlar\u0131 g\u00f6rmedim, merakl\u0131 olanlar nas\u0131lsa listelerden bulacaklar.<\/p>\n
Kafe: Her yer cafe! Terkendis, i\u00e7lerinde en \u00fcnl\u00fc olanlar\u0131ndan. Benim bildi\u011fim iki \u015fubesi var. Tatl\u0131lar\u0131, so\u011fuk kahveleri, frappeleri, b\u00f6rekleri ve dondurmas\u0131 \u00e7ok g\u00fczel. Garsonlar da \u00e7ok g\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc. Hemen Aristo Meydan\u0131\u2019nda, ve biraz daha ileride iki ayr\u0131 Terkendis\u2019i denedim.<\/p>\n
Bir de yeni bir modadan bahsedeyim: Beyaz Kule\u2019nin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndan cafe-botlar\u0131n demirlemi\u015f oldu\u011funu g\u00f6receksiniz. Bir kahve i\u00e7imlik zamanda, kesinlikle normal kahve paras\u0131na, Selanik sahilinde turlay\u0131p geri geliyorlar. Yanl\u0131\u015f hat\u0131rlam\u0131yorsam bir saat i\u00e7inde. Harika bir tecr\u00fcbe.<\/p>\n
Otel: Excelsior, Hyatt Regebcy, The Bristol, \u00e7ok say\u0131daki iyi otelden birka\u00e7 tanesi. Bu kez \u201cThe Met\u201dte kald\u0131m. Eski limanda, biraz hip, baya\u011f\u0131 tarz bir otel. En \u00fcst kat\u0131ndaki havuz, sanki bulutlarla birle\u015fiyor. \u0130nternet sitesinden rahatl\u0131kla ula\u015fabilirsiniz: www.themethotel.gr<\/p>\n
GECE HAYATI<\/strong><\/p>\nLadhadika b\u00f6lgesi, gece hayat\u0131n\u0131n kalbi. Her yer birbirine \u00e7ok yak\u0131n. \u00c7ok iddias\u0131z g\u00f6r\u00fcnen \u00e7ok say\u0131da bar var; ama her biri \u00e7ok \u00f6zellikli. \u015eahane bir elektronik m\u00fczik performans\u0131 seyrettim. Rock barlar muhte\u015fem. Bizim Nevizade usul\u00fc d\u0131\u015far\u0131da oturup yenen, ayn\u0131 zamanda da canl\u0131 m\u00fczikle co\u015fulan yerler de \u00e7ok keyifli. Bulgar ve Romanya\u2019dan gelen Romenler, T\u00fcrk oldu\u011funuzu anlarlarsa hemen T\u00fcrk\u00e7e birka\u00e7 \u015fark\u0131 patlat\u0131yorlar\u2026 Ama ille de Yunan m\u00fczi\u011fi diyorsan\u0131z, \u00e7ok hakl\u0131s\u0131n\u0131z. Bir kere rebetiko mekanlar\u0131na mutlaka u\u011fray\u0131n. \u00d6zellikle bir adres vermeme gerek yok, nas\u0131lsa hepsini g\u00f6receksiniz. Anadolu\u2019dan Yunanistan\u2019a m\u00fcbadeleyle gidenlerin m\u00fczi\u011fi. \u00dcstelik Selanik rembetikosu, farkl\u0131 enstr\u00fcmanlar\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan, \u00e7ok \u00f6zellikli. Bunun yan\u0131s\u0131ra, Buzuki mekanlar\u0131, \u00e7ok e\u011flenceli. Mutlaka gidilmeli. Hele zeybekiko ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 zaman, mekanlarda keyif tavan yap\u0131yor. Gene buralarda da hemen T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u015fark\u0131lar, t\u00fcrk\u00fcler \u00e7al\u0131n\u0131yor\u2026 Bizim eski us\u00fcl gazinolar\u0131n \u00e7ok iyi ses d\u00fczenine sahip olanlarsa, biraz daha \u015fehir d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda. Ben otelin yan\u0131nda bir tane vard\u0131, \u00e7ok da me\u015fhur sanat\u00e7\u0131lar sahne al\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f, oraya gittim. Ne yaz\u0131k ki kapal\u0131yd\u0131, me\u011fer bayram g\u00fcn\u00fcne denk gelmi\u015fim. Ama daha evvel \u00e7ok gitmi\u015fli\u011fim var; kesinlikle bir r\u00fcya ortam\u0131.<\/p>\n
\nCumhuriyet Gazetesi<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Deniz, bildik deniz, p\u00fcf\u00fcr p\u00fcf\u00fcr Ege kokuyor. Sadece 330 bin n\u00fcfuslu Selanik merkezi, gezmekle bitmiyor. Fatih T\u00fcrkmeno\u011flu Buras\u0131 sanki \u201ci\u00e7inden \u0130stanbul ge\u00e7en bir \u0130zmir\u201d. Baz\u0131 sokaklar\u0131 kalabal\u0131k, karma\u015f\u0131k; deniz kenar\u0131, hani neredeyse \u0130zmir. Eski us\u00fcl ma\u011fazalar, eski moda k\u0131yafetli ya\u015fl\u0131larla T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin 60\u2019lar\u0131n\u0131n hayat\u0131ndan esintiler, birden kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zda beliren Osmanl\u0131 izlerine kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Deniz, bildik deniz, p\u00fcf\u00fcr p\u00fcf\u00fcr […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":61135,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,33],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-61134","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-izmir"],"yoast_head":"\n
\u0130\u00e7inden \u0130stanbul ge\u00e7en bir \u0130zmir: Selanik - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=61134\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u0130\u00e7inden \u0130stanbul ge\u00e7en bir \u0130zmir: Selanik - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Deniz, bildik deniz, p\u00fcf\u00fcr p\u00fcf\u00fcr Ege kokuyor. Sadece 330 bin n\u00fcfuslu Selanik merkezi, gezmekle bitmiyor. Fatih T\u00fcrkmeno\u011flu Buras\u0131 sanki \u201ci\u00e7inden \u0130stanbul ge\u00e7en bir \u0130zmir\u201d. Baz\u0131 sokaklar\u0131 kalabal\u0131k, karma\u015f\u0131k; deniz kenar\u0131, hani neredeyse \u0130zmir. Eski us\u00fcl ma\u011fazalar, eski moda k\u0131yafetli ya\u015fl\u0131larla T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin 60\u2019lar\u0131n\u0131n hayat\u0131ndan esintiler, birden kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zda beliren Osmanl\u0131 izlerine kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. 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Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=61134","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"\u0130\u00e7inden \u0130stanbul ge\u00e7en bir \u0130zmir: Selanik - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","og_description":"Deniz, bildik deniz, p\u00fcf\u00fcr p\u00fcf\u00fcr Ege kokuyor. 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