![\"\"](\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Kars-360x177.jpg\")
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Saffet Emre TONGU\u00c7<\/strong><\/p>\n Hayat bu sene bizi \u00f6nceliklerimizi g\u00f6zden ge\u00e7irmemiz i\u00e7in olduk\u00e7a zorlad\u0131. Ben her zaman kendi de\u011ferlerimizi anlaman\u0131n ve anlatman\u0131n i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fumuz zor s\u00fcre\u00e7lere derman oldu\u011funa inan\u0131r\u0131m. Mimarisi, tarihi, k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc ve mutfa\u011f\u0131yla \u00fclkemizin en ilgin\u00e7 \u015fehirlerinden olan Kars da bence o de\u011ferlerden biri. Kars\u2019\u0131 sadece Do\u011fu Ekspresi ile k\u0131\u015f\u0131n ya da hafta sonu i\u00e7in ziyaret edilen bir yer olarak g\u00f6rmekten \u00f6te ruhunu ya\u015faman\u0131z\u0131 \u00f6neririm. Koruyamad\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131z ne kadar \u00e7ok olsa da g\u00f6rd\u00fckleriniz sizi b\u00fcy\u00fcleyecek.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Kars ve civar\u0131ndaki yerle\u015fimin tarihi, milattan \u00f6nceye dayan\u0131yor ve \u015fehir ge\u00e7mi\u015fte sahip oldu\u011fu g\u00fcc\u00fc bug\u00fcn de hissettiriyor. Huriler, Urartular, \u0130skitler, Sasaniler, Sel\u00e7uklular, G\u00fcrc\u00fcler, Mo\u011follar, Akkoyunlular ve Karakoyunlular\u0131n da aralar\u0131nda bulundu\u011fu \u00e7ok say\u0131da devlete ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f Kars topraklar\u0131. M\u00fcthi\u015f bir k\u00fclt\u00fcrel zenginli\u011fin miras\u0131. Kars Osmanl\u0131 topraklar\u0131na 1535\u2019te kat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 1853-1856 Osmanl\u0131-Rus Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019nda \u015fehir halk\u0131 kahramanca savunmu\u015f topraklar\u0131n\u0131 ve 1855 Kars Zaferi nedeniyle devlet taraf\u0131ndan madalya verilerek onurland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00dcstelik Kars Zafer Madalyas\u0131, Anadolu\u2019da bir kente verilen ilk gazilik madalyas\u0131. \u015eehit askerlerin ailelerine da\u011f\u0131t\u0131lan ve bir y\u00fcz\u00fcnde Kars Kalesi, di\u011fer y\u00fcz\u00fcnde padi\u015fah tu\u011fras\u0131 olan madalyalar\u0131 Kars\u2019ta de\u011fil, \u0130stanbul Arkeoloji M\u00fczeleri\u2019nin koleksiyonunda g\u00f6rebilirsiniz. \u015eehir, 1878\u2019den 1918\u2019e kadar tam 40 y\u0131l Ruslar\u0131n i\u015fgalinde kalm\u0131\u015f ve ortaya inan\u0131lmaz bir sentez \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f. Izgara \u015fehir planl\u0131 sokaklar\u0131, o muhte\u015fem ta\u015f binalar\u0131yla Kars, ona Bat\u0131l\u0131 ve aristokrat bir hava veren kar \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fcyle size Rusya\u2019da bir \u015fehir gibi de gelebilir. Yeniden T\u00fcrkiye topraklar\u0131na kat\u0131lmas\u0131 30 Ekim 1920\u2019de Kaz\u0131m Karabekir idaresindeki T\u00fcrk ordusunun \u015fehre girmesiyle ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmi\u015f.<\/p>\n Kelle koltukta sava\u015f<\/strong><\/p>\n Kars\u2019a gitti\u011fimde, \u00f6nce \u015fehre h\u00e2kim tepeye kurulmu\u015f olan kaleye \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131m, \u00e7e\u015fitli i\u015fgallerde tahrip olup defalarca onar\u0131lan kalenin giri\u015findeki Celal Baba T\u00fcrbesi\u2019ni ziyaret ederim. Celal Baba, sava\u015f s\u0131ras\u0131nda kafas\u0131 kesilince kellesini koltu\u011funun alt\u0131na al\u0131p sava\u015fa devam etti\u011fine inan\u0131lan bir sava\u015f kahraman\u0131. Benim i\u00e7in \u015fehirde en ilgin\u00e7 yap\u0131lardan biri 12 kemerinde 12 havarinin kabartmas\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan 12 Havari Kilisesi. Bu ilgin\u00e7 yap\u0131 camiye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcnce K\u00fcmbet ad\u0131 verilmi\u015f. Bu mevkiden g\u00f6r\u00fcnen Kars \u00c7ay\u0131 \u00fczerindeki Ta\u015f K\u00f6pr\u00fc, III. Murat taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Hemen yan\u0131nda Nam\u0131k Kemal\u2019in evi var. Ruslar d\u00f6neminden kalma Vali Kona\u011f\u0131, Defterdarl\u0131k, Belediye ve istasyon binas\u0131yla kal\u0131n ta\u015f duvarl\u0131, baz\u0131lar\u0131 bah\u00e7eli evler size ne kadar de\u011fi\u015fik bir co\u011frafyada oldu\u011funuzu hat\u0131rlatacak. \u015eehrin en g\u00f6rkemli ta\u015f yap\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri de Fethiye Camisi olarak bilinen eski Rus Ortodoks Kilisesi.<\/p>\n Kafkas Cephesi Harp Tarihi M\u00fczesi de korunan yap\u0131lardan. Buras\u0131 son y\u0131llarda Kars\u2019\u0131n kazand\u0131\u011f\u0131 en g\u00fczel k\u00fclt\u00fcr hizmeti. M\u00fczenin oldu\u011fu Kanl\u0131 Tabya binas\u0131, 1803\u2019te III. Selim d\u00f6neminde Yeni Tabya ad\u0131yla yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 1828\u2019de Ruslar\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir gece bask\u0131n\u0131nda tabyadaki askerlerin tamam\u0131 \u015fehit d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f ve o g\u00fcnden bu yana Kanl\u0131 Tabya olarak an\u0131l\u0131yor. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kadar mimari \u00f6zelliklerini koruyarak ula\u015fmas\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00f6nemli. Sava\u015f y\u0131llar\u0131 \u00e7ok etkileyici bi\u00e7imde canland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Bilgi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan da olduk\u00e7a doyurucu. Kars\u2019a gitti\u011finizde mutlaka g\u00f6r\u00fcn derim.<\/p>\n Ani ve Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f<\/strong><\/p>\n \u015eehir merkezine 45 kilometre uzakl\u0131ktaki Ani Harabeleri\u2019ni de g\u00f6r\u00fclecekler listenize ekleyin. Ermeni Bagrat Krall\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019na ba\u015fkentlik yapm\u0131\u015f olan, surlarla \u00e7evrili Ani\u2019de hayal g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fcz\u00fc kullan\u0131p buran\u0131n eski halini g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fczde canland\u0131r\u0131n. Yar\u0131s\u0131 halen ayakta olan Halask\u00e2r Kilisesi\u2019ni, B\u00fcy\u00fck Katedral\u2019i, Anadolu\u2019nun ilk Sel\u00e7uklu camisi Ebul Menu\u00e7ehr\u2019i g\u00f6r\u00fcnce buran\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcs\u00fc sizi de i\u00e7ine alacak. \u0130pek Yolu\u2019nun Anadolu\u2019ya giri\u015f noktas\u0131 \u0130pek Yolu K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019n\u00fc Arpa\u00e7ay Nehri\u2019nin iki yan\u0131nda g\u00f6rebilirsiniz. Marco Polo\u2019nun bu \u015fehirden ge\u00e7ti\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmek bile heyecan verici. Vadiden akan Arpa\u00e7ay, Ermenistan ile s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 olu\u015fturuyor. Buradan \u00c7\u0131ld\u0131r G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ne devam edin ve g\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00fczerinden atlar\u0131n \u00e7ekti\u011fi k\u0131zaklarla gezmenin keyfine var\u0131n. Sonra da Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f\u2019a ge\u00e7ebilirsiniz. Kars\u2019a 55 kilometre uzakl\u0131ktaki Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f\u2019a do\u011fru giderken 1915\u2019te Allahuekber Da\u011flar\u0131\u2019nda so\u011fuktan donarak hayat\u0131n\u0131 kaybeden on binlerce asker i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f an\u0131t\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7eceksiniz. Bir yandan Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f k\u0131\u015f turizminde \u00f6nemli bir yere sahip.<\/p>\n \u00dclkemizde kayak sporu i\u00e7in en kaliteli kar burada. Sadece \u2018kar\u2019\u0131 de\u011fil peyniri de dillere destan. Kars yaylalar\u0131nda 1.500\u2019den fazla bitki yeti\u015fiyormu\u015f. Bu m\u00fcthi\u015f zenginli\u011fin lezzete yans\u0131mamas\u0131 m\u00fcmk\u00fcn m\u00fc? T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de \u00fcretilen 300\u2019\u00fc a\u015fk\u0131n peynir var. Bunlar\u0131n 30\u2019dan fazlas\u0131 Kars\u2019a ait. Ama AB G\u0131da kodeksi standardizasyonuyla birlikte Kars\u2019taki peynir \u00e7e\u015fidi \u00fc\u00e7e indi; ka\u015far, gravyer ve tel peynir. Bunlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda kalan ve 4-5 bin y\u0131ll\u0131k bir \u00fcretim k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc olan peynirlerse evlerde \u00fcretiliyor ve s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 say\u0131da insana ula\u015f\u0131yor. Yerel tatlar\u0131n kaybolmamas\u0131 i\u00e7in g\u00f6sterilen her \u00e7aba \u00e7ok k\u0131ymetli. \u0130\u015fte o u\u011fra\u015f\u0131n en g\u00fczel sonu\u00e7lar\u0131ndan biri; Kars Gravyer, Ka\u015far ve K\u00fclt\u00fcr Festivali. Bir di\u011feri de Bo\u011fatepe K\u00f6y\u00fc\u2019nde kurulan \u00fclkemizin ilk ekom\u00fczesi. Bu m\u00fczede hem yerel-geleneksel peynirlere hem de yerel tohumlara sahip \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n Yerel tekniklerle yap\u0131l\u0131yor<\/strong><\/p>\n Bo\u011fatepe\u2019de peynircili\u011fin tarihi 1880\u2019lere uzan\u0131yor. Kars, Ruslar\u0131n eline ge\u00e7ince Rus, Alman ve \u0130svi\u00e7reli giri\u015fimciler kente gelmi\u015f. Buradaki ilk mand\u0131ray\u0131 kurup bug\u00fcn Kars gravyeri dedi\u011fimiz peynirin \u00f6nc\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc \u00fcreten \u0130svi\u00e7reli David Moser olmu\u015f. Sava\u015fmay\u0131 reddederek Rusya\u2019dan ka\u00e7\u0131p Kars\u2019a yerle\u015fen Malakanlar ile peynir \u00fcretimi \u00e7ok geli\u015fmi\u015f. Kars ka\u015far\u0131 ve gravyeri yerel \u00fcretim teknikleriyle yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Her a\u015fama do\u011fal olunca ne koruyucu ne renklendirici kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. Olgunla\u015fma s\u00fcresi de peynir i\u00e7in \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli. Bir tekerin yemeye haz\u0131r hale gelmesi 3 ile 9 ay aras\u0131nda de\u011fi\u015fiyor. 70 kilo gravyer i\u00e7in 1.5 ton s\u00fct kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n NOT: G\u00fcncel demek bug\u00fcn\u00fcn d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda h\u0131z ve de\u011fi\u015fimin e\u015fanlaml\u0131s\u0131. Bu nedenle yaz\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131 referans al\u0131p seyahat plan\u0131 yaparken de\u011fi\u015fken bilgileri kontrol etmeyi unutmay\u0131n. Benim gibi \u2018bilgi payla\u015ft\u0131k\u00e7a g\u00fczel\u2019 diyenlerdenseniz, yaz\u0131lar\u0131 zenginle\u015ftirece\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcz detaylar\u0131 bana e-posta ile iletin.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/hyetert.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/5fe58fe6d3806c260cf515eb.jpeg?resize=423%2C635&ssl=1\")
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