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Saffet Emre TONGU\u00c7<\/strong><\/p>\n Bir \u015fehrin ruhunun par\u00e7as\u0131d\u0131r o \u015fehrin mimarisi, insanlar\u0131n ileti\u015fimi, gelenekleri hatta mutfa\u011f\u0131\u2026 \u201cNe olursan ol gel\u201d diyen Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi\u2019nin \u015fehri Konya \u00f6nce \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131r sizi, sonra da ruhunuzun bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olur. Ama bu co\u011frafyada bir kez ziyaret ettikten sonra hayat\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olacak bir\u00e7ok g\u00fczellik var. Onlardan biri de Kilistra\u2026<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Konya\u2019ya yap\u0131lan ve \u00e7o\u011fu ki\u015finin kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 h\u0131zl\u0131 turlar sadece Mevlana\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131ran turkuvaz kubbeli t\u00fcrbesini ve bilemediniz bir ya da iki yerel m\u00fczeyi gezmelerine olanak sa\u011flar. E\u011fer zamanlama do\u011fruysa Kapadokya\u2019ya ge\u00e7meden ya da sahile do\u011fru inmeden \u00f6nce profesyonel dervi\u015fler taraf\u0131ndan sunulan bir sema g\u00f6sterisini izleme \u015fans\u0131n\u0131 da yakalayabilirler. \u00d6te yandan birka\u00e7 g\u00fcnl\u00fck zaman\u0131 olanlar i\u00e7in \u015fehrin \u00e7ok ho\u015f s\u00fcrprizler bar\u0131nd\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, \u015fehrin civar\u0131nda gezilesi harika yerler oldu\u011funu belirtmek isterim. \u00dcstelik bu yerleri o kadar az insan geziyor ki kendinizi sessizli\u011fin ortas\u0131nda ger\u00e7ek bir k\u00e2\u015fif gibi hissedece\u011finiz garanti.<\/p>\n Konya\u2019n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken en ilgin\u00e7 yerlerden biri Kilistra\u2026 \u015eehrin a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 yukar\u0131 50 kilometre kadar g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131nda. Kilistra, Lystra veya G\u00f6kt\u00fcrk isimleriyle bilinse de yerel halk\u0131n verdi\u011fi ismi Gilis\u0131ra. Konya\u2019dan Kilistra\u2019ya do\u011fru giderken, etrafa serpi\u015ftirilmi\u015f g\u00f6steri\u015fsiz k\u00f6yleri ve oradan oraya z\u0131playan hayvanlar\u0131yla kendinizi bir tablonun i\u00e7inde yolculuk ederken bulacaks\u0131n\u0131z. Kayal\u0131k bir platoya oyulmu\u015f evleri ve kiliseleriyle bu antik kente vard\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda, kendisine g\u00f6re daha \u00fcnl\u00fc olan Kapadokya\u2019n\u0131n k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ve orijinal bir versiyonu kar\u015f\u0131layacak sizi. Uzaktan bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda birbirinin \u00fczerine yaslanm\u0131\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck tepeleri and\u0131r\u0131yor. Platonun d\u0131\u015f k\u0131sm\u0131nda g\u00f6ze \u00e7arpan b\u00fcy\u00fck ve tuhaf ma\u011fara, i\u00e7eride sizi nelerin bekledi\u011fine dair bir fikir veriyor. Kiliseler ve di\u011fer yap\u0131lar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu devasa bir kayadan meydana gelmi\u015f duvar\u0131n arkas\u0131na saklanm\u0131\u015f. Romal\u0131lar d\u00f6neminde H\u0131ristiyanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 kabul etmeleri Lystra halk\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na i\u015f a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f belki ama bize \u015faheserler b\u0131rakmalar\u0131na da neden olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n \u00c7oktanr\u0131l\u0131 inan\u0131\u015fa sahip olanlar\u0131n sald\u0131r\u0131lar\u0131ndan ka\u00e7abilmek amac\u0131yla t\u00fcm ya\u015fam alanlar\u0131n\u0131 kayalar\u0131n i\u00e7ine kurmu\u015flar. \u00d6yle ki buras\u0131 gizlili\u011fin esas oldu\u011fu, d\u0131\u015far\u0131ya tamamen kapal\u0131 ve d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan bakanlar\u0131n g\u00f6rd\u00fckleri kayalar\u0131n i\u00e7inde \u00e7e\u015fitli hayatlar\u0131n oldu\u011funu anlamad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir sakl\u0131 kent. Evlerini de yama\u00e7taki kayalar\u0131n i\u00e7ine yapm\u0131\u015flar. Kilistra\u2019n\u0131n kuruldu\u011fu g\u00fcnlerden y\u00fczy\u0131llar sonra \u00fcstelik \u00e7o\u011fu ki\u015finin \u2018\u00e7a\u011fda\u015f\u2019 olarak tan\u0131mlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir d\u00f6nemde bile insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayn\u0131 g\u00fcvenlik kayg\u0131s\u0131yla i\u00e7e kapand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve \u2018\u00f6teki\u2019nden h\u00e2l\u00e2 korktu\u011funu g\u00f6rmek ne ac\u0131.<\/p>\n Kilistra\u2019ya ilk yerle\u015fimin M\u00d6 2\u2019nci y\u00fczy\u0131lda oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Antik kent, M\u00d6 5\u2019inci y\u00fczy\u0131lda Pers kral\u0131 I. Darius\u2019un g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz \u0130zmir yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki Sardis kentiyle yazlar\u0131n\u0131 ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi ba\u015fkent olan Persopolis\u2019i (g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde \u0130ran\u2019da) ba\u011flamak \u00fczere yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Kral Yolu\u2019nun iki taraf\u0131na kurulmu\u015f. Kilistra\u2019n\u0131n da \u00fczerinde oldu\u011fu bu yol Konya\u2019dan Yalva\u00e7 yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki Antiocheia-in-Pisdia\u2019ya kadar uzan\u0131yor. Kimi biliminsanlar\u0131 Aziz Pavlus\u2019un\u00a0 MS 47-49 y\u0131llar\u0131nda Anadolu\u2019ya yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ilk yolculukta buray\u0131 da ziyaret etti\u011fine inan\u0131yor. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde \u0130ncil\u2019in bir par\u00e7as\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturan mektuplar\u0131 yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Timothy ile Kilistra\u2019da kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131 da kuvvetle muhtemel, ancak yine de bu bilginin hen\u00fcz onaylanmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7izmek gerek. Kilistra\u2019da kaz\u0131lar 1998\u2019de ba\u015flad\u0131. \u015eimdiye kadar kiliseler, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir Bizans sarn\u0131c\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda bir de \u015f\u0131rahane bulundu. \u015e\u0131rahanenin giri\u015findeki 1\u2019inci y\u00fczy\u0131la ait yaz\u0131tta kentin ad\u0131 ge\u00e7iyor. Arkeolojik \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar h\u00e2l\u00e2 devam ediyor ve k\u00f6y sit alan\u0131.<\/p>\n Ge\u00e7mi\u015f zaman kiliseleri<\/strong><\/p>\n K\u00f6ye vard\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda etrafa yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ma\u011fara evleri ve kiliseleri bulabilmek i\u00e7in bir par\u00e7a yard\u0131ma ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131z olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 akl\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n bir k\u00f6\u015fesinde tutun. Yerli halk\u0131n ilk i\u015faret edece\u011fi yap\u0131n\u0131n tamamen tek par\u00e7a kayadan oyulmu\u015f, ha\u00e7 \u015feklinde s\u0131rad\u0131\u015f\u0131 bir bina olan Sar\u0131kaya Kilisesi olaca\u011f\u0131na bahse girerim. Kilise, Kapadokya\u2019n\u0131n ilerisinde So\u011fanl\u0131 Vadisi\u2019ndeki Belli Kilisesi\u2019ni \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor. Di\u011fer taraftan yap\u0131 Etiyopya Lalibela\u2019daki gizli kaya kiliselerini de akla getirmiyor de\u011fil.\u00a0Sand\u0131kkaya Kilisesi\u2019nin M\u00fcsl\u00fcman ve H\u0131ristiyanlar\u0131n yan yana bir uyum i\u00e7inde ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 zamanlarda yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclse de bu konuda tart\u0131\u015fmalar devam ediyor. Kilise kendisiyle ayn\u0131 zamanda yap\u0131lan di\u011fer kiliselerden farkl\u0131 bir tarzda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. O d\u00f6nemde kiliseler ta\u015ftan yap\u0131lan g\u00f6rkemli binalarm\u0131\u015f. Halbuki Sand\u0131kkaya yekpare bir kayan\u0131n i\u00e7ine oyulmu\u015f. Ayn\u0131 zamanda kilisenin yan\u0131ndaki mezarlarda \u00f6l\u00fclere ait e\u015fyalara rastlanmas\u0131 ancak bu \u00e2detin H\u0131ristiyanl\u0131kta yer almamas\u0131 da \u015f\u00fcpheleri onaylar nitelikte. Bu nedenlerle de kilisenin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00f6nemle ilgili tart\u0131\u015fmalar bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc sona ermiyor. Kilisenin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda Kilistra\u2019n\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle ilgili bilgiler sunan ba\u015fka yap\u0131lar da var. Bunlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck sarn\u0131\u00e7lar\u0131, \u00fcz\u00fcm depolama odalar\u0131n\u0131, antik\u00e7a\u011f mezarlar\u0131n\u0131 ve bir\u00e7ok ma\u011fara evi sayabiliriz.<\/p>\n \u00dc\u00e7 b\u00f6l\u00fcml\u00fc b\u00fcy\u00fck sarn\u0131\u00e7 Kad\u0131n\u0131 kurban eden yar\u0131\u015fma<\/strong><\/p>\n Kilistra\u2019ya yakla\u015f\u0131k 4 kilometre mesafedeki Alisumas Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n dik yama\u00e7lar\u0131 ve tam tepesinde kurulmu\u015f antik bir kente ait kal\u0131nt\u0131lar var. Hakk\u0131nda gereken oranda bilimsel ara\u015ft\u0131rman\u0131n yap\u0131lmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu antik kent, g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc surlar\u0131 ve devasa giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131yla dikkat \u00e7ekiyor. Da\u011fda, ortas\u0131nda bir ma\u011fara olan kayal\u0131klar\u0131nsa ilgin\u00e7 bir efsanesi var. Hik\u00e2ye bu ya, birbirine \u00f6lesiye d\u00fc\u015fman bir k\u0131z ve bir erkek, kendi in\u015fa ettikleri yap\u0131y\u0131 daha \u00f6nce bitirmek konusunda iddiaya girer. Erkek da\u011f\u0131n g\u00fcney taraf\u0131na bir bina, k\u0131zsa da\u011f\u0131n eteklerine kayal\u0131klardan bir ma\u011fara yapmaya ba\u015flar. \u0130ddiay\u0131 erkek kazan\u0131nca en ba\u015fta konu\u015fuldu\u011fu gibi k\u0131z\u0131 kendi yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde kurban eder. O g\u00fcn bu g\u00fcnd\u00fcr, da\u011f\u0131n yamac\u0131nda k\u0131z taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131lan bu sarp kayal\u0131klar \u2018K\u0131z Yap\u0131s\u0131\u2019 olarak isimlendiriliyor. Ma\u011faran\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcndeki koyu renk lekenin de k\u0131z\u0131n kan\u0131 oldu\u011funa inan\u0131l\u0131yor. Erke\u011fin yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 binan\u0131n da g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze sadece duvarlar\u0131 ula\u015fan kilise oldu\u011fu \u00f6ne s\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n<\/figure>\n
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\n<\/strong>
\nYerli halk\u0131n g\u00f6sterdi\u011fi bir ba\u015fka yap\u0131 da MS 8\u2019inci y\u00fczy\u0131la tarihlenen S\u00fcmb\u00fcl Kilisesi\u2026 Bu kilise b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde Aziz Pavlus\u2019un ziyaretiyle ili\u015fkilendiriliyor. S\u00fcmb\u00fcl Kilisesi ve etraf\u0131ndaki b\u00f6lgeye halk, Aziz Pavlus\u2019u unutmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6stermek i\u00e7in olsa gerek, Pol\u00f6n\u00fc ad\u0131n\u0131 takm\u0131\u015f.
\nK\u00f6y\u00fcn i\u00e7inde gezmeye devam ederseniz, Sand\u0131kkaya Kilisesi\u2019ni ge\u00e7tikten sonra s\u0131ras\u0131yla g\u00f6zc\u00fc kulesi, karakol ve sarn\u0131\u00e7 \u00e7\u0131kar kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za. En son Kap\u00e7\u0131 \u0130ni\u2019ne var\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z. Kap\u00e7\u0131 \u0130ni\u2019nde bir zamanlar ev i\u015flerinde kullan\u0131lacak \u00e7anak \u00e7\u00f6mlek tarz\u0131 e\u015fya yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f. \u00dc\u00e7 b\u00f6l\u00fcml\u00fc b\u00fcy\u00fck sarn\u0131\u00e7 da ziyaret\u00e7ilerin ilgisini \u00e7eken yerlerden. Buran\u0131n bir di\u011fer ad\u0131 da Kat\u0131r \u0130ni\u2026 Antik kentte bundan ba\u015fka irili ufakl\u0131 sarn\u0131\u00e7lar ve onlar\u0131 ba\u011flayan suyollar\u0131 da var. \u201cYoruldum, soluklanmak istiyorum\u201d diyorsan\u0131z K\u00f6y Kona\u011f\u0131\u2019ndan daha iyi bir yer bulamazs\u0131n\u0131z.
\nT\u00fcm bu yap\u0131lar\u0131n \u00fczerinde ve \u00e7evresinde g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn modern G\u00f6kyurt\u2019una ait binalar duruyor. \u00c7o\u011funun insan ruhunu ok\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6ylenemez ama her \u015feye ra\u011fmen aralar\u0131nda ta\u015f ve ah\u015fap malzeme kullan\u0131larak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f birka\u00e7 eski zaman evini bulmak \u00e7ok \u015f\u00fck\u00fcr ki m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n