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ARDA EK\u015e\u0130G\u0130L<\/strong><\/p>\n \u0130stanbullu Rum Skarlatos Byzantios\u2019un 1851-1869 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131\u00a0\u2018Constantinople\u2019\u00a0isimli eserin 826 sayfal\u0131k Suri\u00e7i\u2019ni anlatan ilk cildi ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz aylarda Haris Theodorelis-Rigas\u2019\u0131n titiz \u00e7evirisi ve ayd\u0131nlat\u0131c\u0131 notlar\u0131yla \u0130ngilizce olarak \u0130stos Yay\u0131nlar\u0131\u2019ndan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131.\u00a0<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n \u2018Constantinople\u2019 Haris Theodorelis-Rigas\u2019\u0131n titiz \u00e7evirisi \u0130ngilizce olarak \u0130stos Yay\u0131nlar\u0131\u2019ndan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131.<\/p>\n \u0130stanbul\u2019u d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcnce yoruluyorum, g\u00f6zlerim kapan\u0131yor. Emin\u00f6n\u00fc kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131, Tahtakale yap\u0131\u015f yap\u0131\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131, d\u00fckkanlar, tezgahlar, ba\u011f\u0131r\u0131\u015flar, Mahmutpa\u015fa yoku\u015fu, Ayasofya kuyru\u011fu, incik boncuk, Topkap\u0131 kuyru\u011fu, tekrar incik boncuk, Yerebatan kuyru\u011fu \u2013 yine incik boncuk\u2026 Sultanahmet meydan\u0131, Japon kafilesi, Japon kafilesini izleyen yerliler, geni\u015f Arap aileleri, geni\u015f Arap ailelerine laf atan yerli Araplar, yerli Araplardan hazzetmeyen yerliler, s\u0131ra s\u0131ra nargile kafeler, tramvay kornas\u0131, haritalara g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ya\u015fl\u0131 Alman \u00e7iftler, Sirkeci\u2019de kar\u015f\u0131dan kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7emeyen, kime yand\u0131\u011f\u0131 belli olmayan \u0131\u015f\u0131klarda mahsur kalm\u0131\u015f mutsuz, bitkin bir ulus. Ortalama \u0130stanbullunun i\u00e7ine i\u015fleyen Suri\u00e7i a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 yukar\u0131 bu olsa gerek. Foto\u011fraf\u0131 her a\u00e7\u0131dan binlerce kez \u00e7ekilmi\u015f, y\u00fcz\u00fc eskitilmi\u015f, s\u00fcng\u00fcs\u00fc d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f, selfie \u00e7ubuklar\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda di\u015flerini s\u0131karak, sessizce inleyen bir \u015fehir.<\/p>\n Tela\u015fla y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz sokaklar\u0131n \u0130stanbullu Rum Skarlatos Byzantios\u2019un 1851-1869 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131\u00a0\u2018Constantinople\u2019\u00a0<\/strong>isimli eserin 826 sayfal\u0131k Suri\u00e7i\u2019ni anlatan ilk cildi ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz aylarda Haris Theodorelis-Rigas\u2019\u0131n titiz \u00e7evirisi ve ayd\u0131nlat\u0131c\u0131 notlar\u0131yla \u0130ngilizce olarak \u0130stos Yay\u0131nlar\u0131\u2019ndan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Antik Yunanca, Latince, T\u00fcrk\u00e7e ve bir\u00e7ok Bat\u0131 diline hakim olan Skarlatos 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l ayd\u0131nlar\u0131na \u00f6zg\u00fc, tak\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 bir \u00f6zveriyle \u0130stanbul\u2019la ilgili ne yaz\u0131ld\u0131ysa s\u00fcnger gibi emmi\u015f, y\u00fczlerce seyyah\u0131n, \u015fairin, tarih\u00e7inin yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ke\u015fmeke\u015ften \u00e7ekip \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131klar\u0131yla \u015fehri ba\u015ftan in\u015fa etmi\u015f. Her ta\u015f\u0131n alt\u0131n\u0131 kald\u0131rm\u0131\u015f, topra\u011f\u0131 e\u015felemi\u015f, bug\u00fcn izi kalmam\u0131\u015f manast\u0131rlar\u0131, doldurulmu\u015f limanlar\u0131, kurumu\u015f ayazmalar\u0131, koca mahallelere isimlerini veren unutulmu\u015f saray b\u00fcrokratlar\u0131n\u0131 bir bir diriltmi\u015f. Dedikodular\u0131, efsaneleri, \u015fehri bin t\u00fcrl\u00fc musibetten korudu\u011funa inan\u0131lan t\u0131ls\u0131ml\u0131 heykellerin, kiliseden kiliseye ta\u015f\u0131nan emanetlerin \u2013 Meryem anan\u0131n kutsal ba\u015f\u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc, \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n k\u0131rba\u00e7land\u0131\u011f\u0131 kutsal kaz\u0131k par\u00e7as\u0131 \u2013 hikayelerini derleyip toplam\u0131\u015f (\u00f6rne\u011fin inan\u0131\u015fa g\u00f6re bug\u00fcn Fatih\u2019te bulunan K\u0131zta\u015f\u0131, \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7en kad\u0131nlar\u0131n bakire olup olmad\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 saptayabilen bir \u2018ahlak s\u00fctunuymu\u015f\u2019). Yar\u0131 \u00f6l\u00fc bir \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fe su verir gibi \u0130stanbul\u2019u canlad\u0131rm\u0131\u015f, tela\u015fla y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz sokaklar\u0131n\u00a0\u2018ge\u00e7mi\u015f tela\u015flar\u0131n\u0131\u2019<\/strong>\u00a0\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze sermi\u015f.<\/p>\n Renkli birka\u00e7 \u00f6rnek verelim: me\u015fhur din adam\u0131 Arianus (ki o da bir k\u0131s\u0131m ruhban taraf\u0131ndan\u00a0\u2018Hocaefendi\u2019<\/strong>\u00a0muamelesi g\u00f6r\u00fcp daha sonra Hristiyan ulema taraf\u0131ndan\u00a0\u2018FET\u00d6\u2019<\/strong>c\u00fc ilan edilecektir) y\u00fcr\u00fcrken aniden rahats\u0131zlan\u0131r. Tela\u015f i\u00e7inde, bug\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00c7emberlita\u015f civar\u0131nda bir umumi tuvalete ko\u015far, \u015fiddetli ishalden can verir (rivayete g\u00f6re ba\u011f\u0131rsaklar\u0131 bile \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131r). Kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131\u00a0\u2018delik\u2019\u00a0<\/strong>bir daha kullan\u0131lmaz, hatta\u00a0\u2018halk u\u011fursuz suretine t\u00fck\u00fcr\u00fcp i\u015feyebilsin diye\u2019\u00a0<\/strong>helan\u0131n i\u00e7inde bir yer mozai\u011fi yapt\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n \u0130stanbul\u2019un ilk Hezarfen\u2019inin Bir di\u011fer anlat\u0131ya g\u00f6re, 1161 y\u0131llar\u0131 civar\u0131nda Sel\u00e7uklu Sultan\u0131 K\u0131l\u0131\u00e7arslan, Rum \u0130mparatoru Manuel Komnenos\u2019u \u0130stanbul\u2019da ziyaret eder. Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc At (Sultanahmet) Meydan\u0131\u2019ndaki dev hipodromda sultan\u0131n onuruna d\u00fczenlenen g\u00f6steriler esnas\u0131nda heyecanl\u0131 bir vatanda\u015f u\u00e7aca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 iddia ederek takma kanatlar takar ve stadyumun tepesine \u00e7\u0131kar. \u0130mparator \u0130stanbul\u2019un bu ilk Hezarfen\u2019ini durdurmaya kalksa da adam kendinden emindir, sab\u0131rs\u0131zl\u0131kla atlamas\u0131n\u0131 isteyen halk\u0131 bir s\u00fcre bekletse de sonunda uygun r\u00fczgar\u0131 yakalad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek kendisini bo\u015flu\u011fa b\u0131rak\u0131r, hipodromun ortas\u0131na \u00e7ak\u0131l\u0131r. Ayn\u0131 noktada, Osmanl\u0131 devrinde saray\u0131n i\u00e7 o\u011flanlar\u0131n\u0131n \u2013 t\u0131pk\u0131 Bizans devrinde\u00a0\u2018Maviler\u2019<\/strong>\u00a0ve\u00a0\u2018Ye\u015filler\u2019<\/strong>\u00a0diye iki ezeli rakibe d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen at yar\u0131\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131 gibi \u2013\u00a0\u2018bamyac\u0131lar\u2019<\/strong>\u00a0ve\u00a0\u2018lahanac\u0131lar\u2019<\/strong>\u00a0diye isimlendirilen iki tak\u0131ma ayr\u0131larak cirit oynad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011freniyoruz.<\/p>\n Devaml\u0131l\u0131k i\u00e7inde daireler \u00e7izen bir \u015fehir hissi<\/strong><\/p>\n Ger\u00e7ekten de Byzantios\u2019un eserinin hissettirdi\u011fi, b\u00fcy\u00fck, hazin, hatta g\u00f6rkemli alt \u00fcst olu\u015flar\u0131n sonunda beklenen dramatik kopu\u015flar\u0131n bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc gelmedi\u011fi, de\u011fi\u015fimden \u00e7ok devaml\u0131l\u0131k i\u00e7inde daireler \u00e7izen bir \u015fehir hissidir \u2013 d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm de\u011fil, devinim i\u00e7inde bir \u015fehir. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar ge\u00e7se de inatla ayn\u0131 ayazmadan ayn\u0131 mucizeleri bekleyen halklar, ayn\u0131 kubbelere do\u011fru y\u00fckselen dualar, imparatorlar\u0131n \u00fczerine g\u00f6m\u00fclen sultanlar\u2026 Bu devinim yorucudur da, dur durak bilmez. Depremlerin zay\u0131flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 surlar kilise y\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131yla, y\u0131k\u0131lan kiliseler harabe olmu\u015f surlarla in\u015fa edilir. Bir delik kapan\u0131rken di\u011feri a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r, bir d\u00fc\u015fman\u0131n g\u00f6z\u00fcne mil \u00e7ekilirken di\u011ferinin han\u00e7eri belinden \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f, s\u0131rt\u0131n\u0131zda gezinir. Rakiplerin burunlar\u0131 do\u011fran\u0131r, karde\u015flerin boyunlar\u0131 vurulur, yang\u0131n\u0131 veba, vebay\u0131 s\u0131tma takip eder. Yine de Yeni Roma kurulmu\u015ftur bir kere, vazge\u00e7ilemez, elde bir \u015fey kalmasa da sonuna kadar \u00e7eki\u015ftirilir, imparatorlar, asilzadeler, tacirler, devasa ordular \u015fehrin bir tepesinden di\u011ferine yuvarlan\u0131r, bo\u011fu\u015fup dururlar. K\u00f6\u015fke \u00e7evrilen bir kilise tekrar kiliseye \u00e7evrilir, devran d\u00f6ner y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131r, yerini yeni bir k\u00f6\u015fke b\u0131rak\u0131r, k\u00f6\u015fk g\u00fcn gelir manast\u0131ra d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcr \u2013 sizin zihniniz allak bullak olmu\u015ftur bile, ge\u00e7mi\u015fin h\u0131z\u0131na yeti\u015femezsiniz. Fakat ad\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 yava\u015flat\u0131r, yorulmay\u0131 da biraz g\u00f6ze al\u0131rsan\u0131z, nefesi t\u00fckenmeyen bu \u015fehrin y\u0131lmadan pe\u015finden ko\u015fan Skarlatos durup sizi bekleyecektir.<\/p>\n
\n\u2018ge\u00e7mi\u015f tela\u015flar\u0131n\u0131\u2019 \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze sermi\u015f<\/strong><\/p>\n
\nAt Meydan\u0131\u2019naki u\u00e7u\u015f denemesi<\/strong><\/p>\n