{"id":56289,"date":"2019-12-30T01:52:55","date_gmt":"2019-12-30T06:52:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289"},"modified":"2019-12-30T01:52:55","modified_gmt":"2019-12-30T06:52:55","slug":"levon-bagis-ile-ermeni-mutfagi-bir-yeryuzu-soleni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289","title":{"rendered":"Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f ile Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131: Bir yery\u00fcz\u00fc \u015f\u00f6leni"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"Yemek ve \u015farap uzman\u0131 Agos Gazetesi yazar\u0131 Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f, Dr. Berken D\u00f6ner’e Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n lezzetlerini, sofra adab\u0131n\u0131 ve \u015farab\u0131n binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihini anlatt\u0131.<\/em><\/p>\n

Ermenilerin en \u00e7ok gurur duydu\u011fu mezesi topik. Bu nedenle eskiden gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar\u0131n \u00e7eyizine i\u015flenmi\u015f, nak\u0131\u015fl\u0131 topik bezleri konurmu\u015f ve topik yapmas\u0131n\u0131 bilmeyen k\u0131z kolay kolay evlenemezmi\u015f. Bug\u00fcn ise pek \u00e7ok yerde sat\u0131lmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen h\u00e2l\u00e2 en g\u00fczel topi\u011fin kim taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m Ermeni han\u0131mlar aras\u0131nda pop\u00fclerli\u011fini koruyan bir tart\u0131\u015fma. Zira topik yap\u0131m\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan so\u011fan, karamelize edilmeyip sadece ha\u015flan\u0131yorsa o tarifi veren ki\u015fiye bir daha s\u00f6z s\u00f6yleme hakk\u0131 d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fcyor. \u015eimdi gelin topi\u011fin yan\u0131na dolmalar\u0131, pilakileri, bal\u0131klar\u0131 da ekleyerek nefis bir sofra kural\u0131m. Bu sofraya iyi bir \u015farap da ekleyerek mezelerimizi kavalyesiz b\u0131rakmayal\u0131m, sohbet ise olmazsa olmaz! Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f\u2019\u0131 dinleyelim.<\/p>\n

Ermeni toplumunda mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn belirleyicileri olarak neler s\u00f6yleyebilirsiniz? Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc bir mutfak diyebilir miyiz?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kendine \u00f6zg\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7inde bar\u0131nd\u0131ran bir mutfak. Dini rit\u00fcellerin bask\u0131n oldu\u011fu da bir mutfak. Kutlamalardan anmalara, bayramlara kadar yemek hep ba\u015frolde. Fakat unutmamak gereken \u00f6nemli nokta \u015fu ki, mutfa\u011f\u0131 her ne kadar inan\u00e7 ya da toplum etkilese de belirleyen ana etken co\u011frafyad\u0131r. Anadolu\u2019nun her yerine da\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir topluluktan bahsediyoruz. \u0130stanbul\u2019daki ile Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019daki, Edirne\u2019deki ile \u0130zmir\u2019deki Ermeniler tabii ki ayn\u0131 yemekler ile beslenmiyorlar.<\/p>\n

Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131nda en \u00e7ok kullan\u0131lan baharatlar ve malzemeler nelerdir?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Yine b\u00f6lgesel olarak farklar olsa da tarihsel olarak \u2018Baharat-\u0130pek Yolu\u2019 \u00e7evresinde yerle\u015fmi\u015f Ermeniler baharat kullanmay\u0131 severler. Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019da sumak, sumak suyu \u00e7ok yayg\u0131nken genel olarak Ermenilerin baharat\u0131 nedir derseniz akl\u0131ma hemen tar\u00e7\u0131n gelir. K\u00f6ftesinden dolmas\u0131na, topi\u011finden past\u0131rmaya kadar her yerde karar\u0131nda ama epey bolca kullan\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u201cYEMEK YERKEN YEMEKTEN KONU\u015eUYORSA ERMEN\u0130D\u0130R\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130stanbullu Ermeniler en \u00e7ok hangi lezzetleri unuttular? Yap\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n zorlu\u011fundan veya malzeme temininden dolay\u0131 art\u0131k yap\u0131lmayan lezzetler nelerdir?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Asl\u0131na bakarsan\u0131z sosyal ya\u015fam de\u011fi\u015ftik\u00e7e yemekler de al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131klar da de\u011fi\u015fiyor. Eskinin sadece evin i\u015fleri ile ilgilenen kad\u0131nlar\u0131 art\u0131k \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131klar\u0131ndan, o zahmetli, haz\u0131rlamas\u0131 saatler s\u00fcren yemekler de epey az yap\u0131l\u0131r hale geldi. Ama neredeyse hi\u00e7 yap\u0131lmayan yemeklerin ba\u015f\u0131nda \u00f6zellikle \u2018dalak dolma\u2019 say\u0131labilir. Hem sa\u011fl\u0131kl\u0131 yemek ak\u0131mlar\u0131 hem sivri tad\u0131, bir de yap\u0131m\u0131nda istedi\u011fi ustal\u0131k nedeni ile neredeyse unutulmu\u015f bir yemek haline geldi. Ama ayr\u0131ca do\u011fay\u0131 yok etmemizden \u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fc art\u0131k yap\u0131lamayan yemekler var ki en ac\u0131s\u0131 bunlar.<\/p>\n

Dalak dolmas\u0131n\u0131 ya da topi\u011fi bir \u015fekilde tarifleri ya\u015fatarak yap\u0131labilir k\u0131lars\u0131n\u0131z ama ana malzemeleri kaybetti\u011finizde o yeme\u011fi kaybediyorsunuz. Marmara Denizi\u2019nin belki de en lezzetli bal\u0131klar\u0131ndan uskumru art\u0131k bu denizde avlanam\u0131yor. O nedenle art\u0131k \u201cuskumru dolmas\u0131\u201d yap\u0131lam\u0131yor ki bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n en lezzetli yemeklerinden biridir. Yok olan \u00e2detler baz\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnleri sahipsiz k\u0131l\u0131yor ve o \u00e2detler y\u00fcz\u00fcnden baz\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnler de yok oluyor. Yedikule\u2019deki hastanemiz \u00f6n\u00fcnde yap\u0131lan ve neredeyse b\u00fct\u00fcn \u0130stanbullu Ermenilerin pikni\u011fe gidip hatta \u2018marul g\u00fczeli\u2019\u2019 se\u00e7tikleri toplu kutlamalar bitti\u011fi gibi, \u2018Yedikule marulu\u2019 da unutuluyor. O, kutlamalar\u0131n ba\u015frol\u00fcndeyken b\u00f6yle bir \u015fey akla gelmezdi herhalde.<\/p>\n

Agos Gazetesi\u2019ndeki yaz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131zdan, geli\u015fmi\u015f bir damak tad\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7ine do\u011fdunuz anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. Aile b\u00fcy\u00fcklerinden yemek konusunda neler \u00f6\u011frendiniz?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Damak tad\u0131m\u0131n geli\u015fmi\u015f olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilmiyorum ama babam\u0131n bir s\u00f6z\u00fc vard\u0131, \u201cYemek yerken yemekten konu\u015fuyorsa Ermeni\u2019dir\u201d diye. Yemek hep hayat\u0131mda ba\u015frolde, bu nedenle kendimi \u2018obur\u2019 diye adland\u0131rmaktan utanm\u0131yorum. Asl\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fcklerden \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim en \u00f6nemli \u015fey yeme\u011fi takdir etmek. Evde konu\u015fulan soyk\u0131r\u0131m ve varl\u0131k vergisi hikayelerinde en \u00e7ok alt\u0131 \u00e7izilen hep a\u00e7l\u0131k ve yemeksiz kalmakt\u0131. Bu nedenle yeme\u011fe normalden fazla sayg\u0131 duyulurdu diye hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. \u00d6zellikle misafir i\u00e7in haz\u0131rlanan sofralarda yemekler en k\u0131ymetli olanlard\u0131. Mamam\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 dolmalardan \u00e7almaya bay\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131m. Ve babamdan, dolma \u00e7al\u0131p da yakalanmaman\u0131n yolunu \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015ftim. \u00c7ald\u0131n m\u0131 bir s\u0131ra \u00e7alacaks\u0131n ki \u00e7ald\u0131\u011f\u0131n belli olmas\u0131n. Ama bazen babam da, ben de birer s\u0131ra \u00e7al\u0131nca misafire kalmazd\u0131. \u015eaka bir yana babamdan yemek ile alakal\u0131 \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim en \u00f6nemli \u015fey al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yapmakt\u0131. Hangi mevsim ne al\u0131n\u0131r, tazeli\u011fi nas\u0131l anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r ondan \u00f6\u011frendim. Cumartesi g\u00fcnleri \u2018Bal\u0131k Pazar\u0131\u2019ndan al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f g\u00fcn\u00fcyd\u00fc. S\u0131rf o al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fi seyretmek i\u00e7in ve tabii ki sonras\u0131nda beraber yemek yiyebilmek i\u00e7in babam\u0131n i\u015f yerine giderdim. \u00d6nce \u015e\u00fctte\u2019den \u015fark\u00fcteri, sonra Co\u015fkun\u2019dan et, Re\u015fat\u2019tan bal\u0131k olarak ne laz\u0131msa al\u0131n\u0131r, pazarl\u0131k yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131. Babam hi\u00e7 yemek yapmasa da yemek malzemesini iyi bilir, ukalal\u0131k yapmaktan da geri durmazd\u0131. Mamam sadece ne yemek pi\u015firece\u011fini s\u00f6yler, babam b\u00fct\u00fcn malzemeyi al\u0131rd\u0131. Yemekle alakal\u0131 t\u00fcm ilgim ve merak\u0131m b\u00f6yle ba\u015flad\u0131 diyebiliriz.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ocuklu\u011funuzda ailenizin mutfa\u011f\u0131nda en \u00e7ok hangi yemekler yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Her \u015fey pi\u015ferdi diyebilirim ama sezonluk yemekler vard\u0131 ki onlar belki y\u0131lda bir yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131. Yolu g\u00f6zlenirdi o yemeklerin. K\u0131\u015f gelince \u2018pa\u00e7a\u2019, baharda \u2018kalkan\u2019 gibi\u2026 Ama onun d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda g\u00fcndelik ev sofras\u0131nda galiba en \u00e7ok hat\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m \u00e7orbalard\u0131. Her ne olursa olsun mutlaka bir \u00e7orba sofrada olurdu. Yo\u011furtlu \u00e7orba, bu\u011fdayl\u0131 \u00e7orba ve sulu k\u00f6fte h\u00e2l\u00e2 en sevdi\u011fim yemeklerdendir. Bir de h\u00e2l\u00e2 mamam\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bol baharatl\u0131 k\u00f6fteye yak\u0131n lezzette bir \u015fey yemedim hi\u00e7. Pazar g\u00fcnleri ise mutlaka evde bal\u0131k yenirdi. Ablam da ben de ufak bal\u0131k sevdi\u011fimizden daha \u00e7ok istavrit ya da tekir olurdu sofrada. Her pazar, devam etti\u011fimiz ibadethane Kad\u0131k\u00f6y\u2019de oldu\u011fundan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta bal\u0131k pazar\u0131na gidip bal\u0131k, ye\u015fillik ve \u015farap al\u0131n\u0131rd\u0131. Babam\u0131n elindeki torbadan eve misafir gelip gelmeyece\u011fini anlard\u0131m. E\u011fer biraz daha pahal\u0131 bir \u015farap al\u0131nd\u0131ysa kesin misafir gelecek demekti.<\/p>\n

Biraz da ada y\u0131llar\u0131n\u0131zdan bahsedelim. Heybeliada\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc ortam\u0131nda \u00e7ocuklu\u011funuzun ge\u00e7ti\u011fini biliyoruz. Adal\u0131 olmak yeme-i\u00e7me merak\u0131n\u0131za katk\u0131da bulundu mu?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Her \u015feyden \u00f6nce adada b\u00fcy\u00fcmek b\u00fcy\u00fck bir \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck hissi verir orada yeti\u015fenlere. Hi\u00e7bir yeri sahiplenmedi\u011fin kadar \u00e7ok sahiplenirsin aday\u0131. Adal\u0131lar, adalar\u0131na isimleriyle seslenmezler. Yani Heybeli\u2019ye gidilmez, \u2018Bizim Ada\u2019ya gidilir. Adal\u0131 olmak adan\u0131n b\u00fct\u00fcn nimetlerinden faydalanmay\u0131 da getirir yan\u0131na. Yava\u015f yava\u015f akl\u0131n erdik\u00e7e etraf\u0131ndakilerin fark\u0131na var\u0131rs\u0131n. Deniz kestanesinin yenilecek bir \u015fey oldu\u011funu adal\u0131 oldu\u011fun i\u00e7in \u00f6\u011frenirsin. Sonbahara do\u011fru \u2018k\u0131ra\u00e7a\u2019 zaman\u0131 ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda t\u00fcm arkada\u015flar\u0131nla bal\u0131\u011fa gidip evine ilk yeme\u011fini getirirsin mesela. Ya da ilk gen\u00e7li\u011finde b\u00fct\u00fcn paran\u0131 biraya yat\u0131r\u0131p karn\u0131n\u0131 doyurmak i\u00e7in midye toplay\u0131p teneke \u00fczerinde pi\u015firir yersin. Ama adan\u0131n co\u011frafi katk\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrel katk\u0131s\u0131 oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yleyebilirim \u00fcst\u00fcmde. Rum kom\u015fumuzun \u2018\u00e7evirme tatl\u0131s\u0131\u2019, Musevi arkada\u015f\u0131m\u0131n annesinin yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u2018b\u00f6rekitas\u2019lar, kurban bayram\u0131nda pi\u015firilen \u2018sakatat\u2019lar, yeme-i\u00e7me merak\u0131m\u0131 besleyen unsurlar olmu\u015ftur hep.<\/p>\n

Ermeni evlerinde sofra adab\u0131 nas\u0131ld\u0131r?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sofra adab\u0131 herhangi bir \u0130stanbullu aileden farkl\u0131 de\u011fildir \u0130stanbul Ermenileri i\u00e7in. Di\u011fer co\u011frafyalarla ayn\u0131d\u0131r. Ama genel olarak s\u00f6ylemek gerekirse bizde iki kap yemekle yemek ge\u00e7i\u015ftirilmez\u2026<\/p>\n

Ermeni evlerinde misafir nas\u0131l a\u011f\u0131rlan\u0131r? Neler ikram edilir?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mutlaka zor yemekler yap\u0131l\u0131r. \u00d6nce g\u00f6ze hitap eden, masada bo\u015fluk b\u0131rak\u0131lmayacak kadar \u00e7ok yeme\u011fin konuldu\u011fu bir sofrad\u0131r. Zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 ve sakatat olmadan bir sofra olmaz. Topik, zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 dolma, beyin, dil s\u00f6\u011f\u00fc\u015f, tarama ve past\u0131rma olmazsa olmazlar denilebilir, en az\u0131ndan benim sofram i\u00e7in\u2026<\/p>\n

Oru\u00e7 ve bayram g\u00fcnleri men\u00fcs\u00fcnden bahseder misiniz? Nas\u0131l bir haz\u0131rl\u0131k yap\u0131l\u0131r bu d\u00f6nemlerde?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Oru\u00e7 yemekleri Ermeniler i\u00e7in hayvansal \u00fcr\u00fcnlerden uzak durulan zamanlar\u0131 i\u015faret eder. Bu nedenle neredeyse \u2018vegan\u2019 bir beslenme i\u00e7ine girer imanl\u0131 Ermeniler. Sadece hayvansal olmayan besinlerin yenildi\u011fi oru\u00e7 sofralar\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kan yemekler, hem lezzetleri hem hafiflikleri ve de tabii ki neredeyse t\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn alkoll\u00fc i\u00e7kilerle iyi gidiyor olmas\u0131, g\u00fcnl\u00fck sofralarda da eksik edilmez olmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015f bu yemeklerin. Zeytinya\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u2018i\u00e7inde y\u00fczen\u2019 yalanc\u0131 dolmalar, pilakiler ve hatta topik, bu sofralardan meyhane masalar\u0131na transfer olan lezzetlerden sadece birka\u00e7\u0131. Her ne kadar hayvansal g\u0131da yememek gerekiyorsa da hafta sonlar\u0131 bal\u0131k yenilebiliyor. \u0130sa Mesih\u2019in mucizelerinde bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir yeri olmas\u0131 sebebi ile herhalde bal\u0131\u011fa, daha do\u011frusu bal\u0131kseverlere bir k\u0131yak ge\u00e7ilmi\u015f gibi. Bal\u0131\u011f\u0131n bu kadar lezzetli oldu\u011fu bir \u015fehirde gayet orucu kolayla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 bir adet. Zaten orucun son g\u00fcn\u00fc olan cumartesi de bal\u0131k yemek adettendir.<\/p>\n

\u2018YEME\u011e\u0130N M\u0130LL\u0130YET\u0130 OLMAZ, YEME\u011e\u0130N CO\u011eRAFYASI OLUR\u2019<\/strong><\/p>\n

Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 sofras\u0131nda olmazsa olmaz dedi\u011finiz lezzetler nelerdir? Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 sofras\u0131 nas\u0131l haz\u0131rlan\u0131r?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 geldi\u011finde herkesin akl\u0131na hediyeler, Noel Baba falan gelse de, benim akl\u0131ma kalabal\u0131k ev ve ku\u015f s\u00fct\u00fc eksik sofralar gelir. Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131nda t\u00fcm ailenin ge\u00e7irece\u011fi evi anlamak hi\u00e7 zor olmaz. E\u011fer ki b\u00fcy\u00fck sofra kurulacaksa ilk ve vazge\u00e7ilmez i\u015f, so\u011fan kavurmak. Bir Ermeni evinin y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 sofras\u0131n\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmezlerinin ba\u015f\u0131nda gelen zeytinya\u011fl\u0131 yaprak dolma, topik, midye dolma hepsinde bol bol so\u011fan var. Bunun i\u00e7in de en g\u00f6z ya\u015fart\u0131c\u0131 i\u015f bu so\u011fanlar\u0131 do\u011framak. Bu bol miktarda do\u011franan ve k\u0131s\u0131k ate\u015fte \u201ckendi suyunu \u00e7ekene kadar\u201d ya da \u2018rengi karamele d\u00f6nene kadar\u2019 pi\u015firilen so\u011fan\u0131n kokusu, de\u011fil evi b\u00fct\u00fcn mahalleyi sarar. Kimilerine rahats\u0131z edici gelse de bence g\u00fczel bir sofraya yakla\u015fman\u0131n sevin\u00e7li habercisidir o koku. Her ne kadar ortak yemeklerden ve sofran\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmezlerinden bahsetsek de, homojen bir Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan bahsetmek pek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Unutmamak gerekir ki yeme\u011fin milliyeti olmaz, yeme\u011fin co\u011frafyas\u0131 olur. Yani ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z co\u011frafyada ne yeti\u015fiyorsa onu pi\u015firmek zorundas\u0131n\u0131z. Bu nedenle Adanal\u0131 Ermeni\u2019nin mutfa\u011f\u0131 ile Yozgatl\u0131 Ermeni\u2019nin mutfa\u011f\u0131, t\u00fcm bunlar ile \u0130stanbullu Ermeni\u2019nin mutfa\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck farkl\u0131l\u0131k g\u00f6sterir. Bu farklar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda da bal\u0131k gelir.<\/p>\n

\u0130stanbul Ermenilerinde bol bol ve olmazsa olmaz yemeklerin ba\u015f\u0131nda bal\u0131k gelir. Bunun nedeni asl\u0131nda co\u011frafidir. \u0130stanbul\u2019un bal\u0131k ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131layan en \u00f6nemli bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 k\u00f6y\u00fc Kumkap\u0131; bir Ermeni mahallesidir. Ermenilerin \u0130stanbul\u2019da ilk yerle\u015ftikleri bu yer hakk\u0131ndaki bilgileri Ara G\u00fcler\u2019in \u2018Kumkap\u0131 Bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131\u2019 kitab\u0131nda g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcz. Kitapta, \u0130stanbul\u2019un son Ermeni bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 reisleri, Dacat Reis, Husig Reis, Kevork Reis; b\u00fcy\u00fck bal\u0131k teknelerine yard\u0131mc\u0131 olan goygoycular, a\u011f onaran meramet\u00e7i kad\u0131nlar, sahil yolunun yap\u0131lmas\u0131yla ortadan kalkan bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 semti Acemda\u011f, g\u00f6zlerimizin \u00f6n\u00fcne serilir. Kumkap\u0131\u2019dan biraz ilerleyince ba\u015fka bir Ermeni mahallesinde ise durumlar epey farkl\u0131d\u0131r. Anadolu\u2019nun \u00e7e\u015fitli yerlerinden ama \u00f6zellikle \u0130\u00e7 Anadolu\u2019dan gelen Ermenilerin yerle\u015fti\u011fi Samatya\u2019da ise ba\u015frolde hamur ve eti daha \u00e7ok g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. Sofran\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmezlerinden birisi de lakerdad\u0131r. Lakerda genelde erkekler taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131l\u0131r. Herhalde \u0130stanbul\u2019un en k\u0131ymetli yiyeceklerinden biridir. 500 sene \u00f6nce Malaga\u2019dan Museviler taraf\u0131ndan getirilen bu lezzetin h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayn\u0131 keyifle t\u00fcketiliyor olmas\u0131 bile ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 sofralar\u0131n\u0131 sevmeye yeter.<\/p>\n

Agos Gazetesi\u2019nde d\u00fczenli olarak yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z \u2018Obur\u2019 adl\u0131 k\u00f6\u015fenizde \u015farap k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc konusunda \u00e7ok de\u011ferli bilgiler veriyorsunuz. Ayn\u0131 zamanda \u2018\u015earab\u0131n ABC\u2019si adl\u0131 kitab\u0131n da yazar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131z. Yaz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131zda \u015farab\u0131n do\u011fdu\u011fu yerin Anadolu oldu\u011funuzu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorsunuz. Bize biraz Anadolu\u2019nun \u015farap ge\u00e7mi\u015finden bahseder misiniz?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n belgelere dayal\u0131 ger\u00e7ek tarihi Anadolu uygarl\u0131klar\u0131 ile i\u00e7 i\u00e7edir. M\u00d6 2000 y\u0131llar\u0131nda Anadolu\u2019da 600 y\u0131ll\u0131k b\u00fcy\u00fck bir uygarl\u0131k yaratan Hititler i\u00e7in, bu\u011fday ve arpa yeti\u015ftiricili\u011fi ile birlikte ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u00f6nemini anlatan \u00e7ok say\u0131da arkeolojik buluntu g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ula\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Konya, \u0130vriz kabartmas\u0131 belki de tarihin ilk tar\u0131m an\u0131t\u0131d\u0131r. Hitit Tanr\u0131s\u0131\u2019na en k\u0131ymetli mallar, yani arpa ve \u00fcz\u00fcm sunulmaktad\u0131r. Ankara\u2019da Anadolu Medeniyetleri M\u00fczesi\u2019nde, bu d\u00f6neme ait alt\u0131n i\u00e7ki kaplar\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra, \u00e7e\u015fitli hayvan fig\u00fcrlerinden olu\u015fturulmu\u015f toprak ve seramik i\u00e7ki kaplar\u0131 \u00e7ok de\u011ferli \u00f6rneklerdir. Ayr\u0131ca, bu d\u00f6neme ait kaya resimleri ve heykellerde \u00fcz\u00fcm ve \u015farapl\u0131 fig\u00fcrlerin yer almas\u0131, Hitit Kanunlar\u0131\u2019nda ba\u011flar\u0131n ve \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn korunmas\u0131na y\u00f6nelik \u00f6zel h\u00fck\u00fcmlere yer verilmesi, Bo\u011fazk\u00f6y metinlerinde kuru \u00fcz\u00fcmden bahsedilmesi sosyal ve ekonomik a\u00e7\u0131dan Anadolu ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemini g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ta\u015f\u0131yan di\u011fer belgeler olarak kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Hititlerin ard\u0131ndan Anadolu, \u00e7e\u015fitli uygarl\u0131klara yurt olmaya devam etmi\u015ftir. Bunlardan Frigya ve Pers uygarl\u0131klar\u0131 ile Helenistlik d\u00f6nem boyunca ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k \u00f6nemini korumu\u015ftur. Ankara\u2019n\u0131n tarihi isimlerinden \u2018Ancyra\u2019, eski Yunanca\u2019da \u2018koruk\u2019, Fars\u00e7a\u2019da ise \u2018eng\u00fcr\u00fc\u2019 \u00fcz\u00fcm anlam\u0131na gelmektedir. Ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn Anadolu\u2019nun bat\u0131s\u0131ndaki yay\u0131l\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, Anadolu\u2019dan Girit ve Ege adalar\u0131na g\u00f6\u00e7 ederek Minos Uygarl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n (M\u00d6 2200-1400) kurulmas\u0131nda \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fck eden Hititlerin b\u00fcy\u00fck etkisi olmu\u015ftur. Ba\u011f ve zeytin yeti\u015ftiricili\u011finde ileri olduklar\u0131 kabul edilen Minos Uygarl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n Girit\u2019te ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k, daha sonra Mora Yar\u0131madas\u0131 ve Trakya\u2019ya yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Pagan d\u00f6nemi Ermenileri, yeni y\u0131l\u0131n A\u011fustos\u2019un ikinci haftas\u0131 ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131rlarm\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcn ayr\u0131ca, B\u00fcy\u00fck Tanr\u0131\u00e7a Anahit\u2019in g\u00fcn\u00fcym\u00fc\u015f ve o g\u00fcn \u00fcz\u00fcm kutsan\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Anahit\u2019e sayg\u0131 olarak \u00fcz\u00fcmler, p\u0131narlara, \u00e7e\u015fmelere b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r ve ancak bu rit\u00fceller ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftikten sonra, o sene yeni olgunla\u015fm\u0131\u015f olan \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden yenebilirmi\u015f. Anlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z, \u00fcz\u00fcmlerin okunmadan yenmesi yasakm\u0131\u015f. Bu \u00e2det bug\u00fcn ayn\u0131 tarihlerde ve ayn\u0131 \u00e2detler ile \u2018Meryem Ana Yortusu\u2019 olarak kutlan\u0131yor. \u015earap ticareti en \u00f6nemli gelir kaynaklar\u0131ndan olan bir millet i\u00e7in \u00e7ok anla\u015f\u0131labilir bir \u00e2det\u2026 \u00c2detin nereden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 tahmin etmek pek g\u00fc\u00e7 de\u011fil. Devasa arazilerde g\u00f6z alabildi\u011fince uzanan ba\u011flardaki \u00fcz\u00fcmler, b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle herkesin i\u015ftah\u0131n\u0131 kabart\u0131yordu ve \u015farap yap\u0131lacak olgunlu\u011fa gelmeden yenilmemeleri gerekiyordu. Gelip ge\u00e7enin, can\u0131 \u00e7ekenin, \u015farap olacak c\u00e2n\u0131m \u00fcz\u00fcmleri dal\u0131ndan kopartmas\u0131n\u0131n, sofrada t\u00fcketmesinin \u00f6n\u00fcne ge\u00e7menin en kolay yolu olarak yasaklamay\u0131 se\u00e7mi\u015f \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn k\u0131ymetini bilenler. Yasak, dini olunca daha kolay uygulan\u0131yor demek ki\u2026 Olgunla\u015fmam\u0131\u015f \u00fcz\u00fcmden \u015farap yapmak pek iyi sonu\u00e7lar \u00e7\u0131karmaz.<\/p>\n

\u2018ERMEN\u0130STAN VE G\u00dcRC\u0130STAN\u2019I \u0130\u00c7\u0130NE ALAN B\u00d6LGE, \u015eARABIN ANAVATANI KABUL ED\u0130L\u0130YOR\u2019<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00dcstelik yap\u0131lan \u015farap ticareti de \u00f6yle pek yabana at\u0131lacak miktarlarda da de\u011fildi, tarihin babas\u0131 Heredot, tarihinde yap\u0131lan \u015farap ticaretini \u015f\u00f6yle anlat\u0131yor:
\n\u201cNehir ak\u0131m\u0131 ile Babil\u2019e gelen tekneler tamamen deriden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r ve yuvarlakt\u0131r. Bunlar\u0131, nehrin (Dicle) yukar\u0131 k\u0131sm\u0131nda, Asur\u2019un \u00fczerinde yer alan Armenya\u2019da (Armenia) yaparlar. \u00d6nce s\u00f6\u011f\u00fct a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131ndan teknenin iskeletini \u00e7atar, sonra bunun \u00fczerini sanki bir gemi ambar\u0131 olu\u015fturur gibi kaplayacak \u015fekilde derileri gererler. Her teknede bir, daha b\u00fcy\u00fcklerinde daha fazla e\u015fek bulunur. Babil\u2019e ula\u015f\u0131p y\u00fcklerini bo\u015falt\u0131nca gemi iskeletini ve t\u00fcm karg\u0131y\u0131 satarlar, derileri e\u015fek s\u0131rt\u0131na y\u00fckleyip karadan Armenya\u2019ya geri d\u00f6nerler. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc nehrin ak\u0131m h\u0131z\u0131 nehir yukar\u0131 yolculu\u011fa izin vermez. Teknelerini tahta yerine deriden yapmalar\u0131n\u0131n sebebi budur. E\u015fekleriyle Armenya\u2019ya ula\u015f\u0131r, yeni tekneler yaparlar.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ayn\u0131 ticareti, Heredot\u2019tan esinlenen Amin Maalouf daha edebi bir \u015fekilde anlat\u0131yor: \u201cDicle, ak\u0131nt\u0131yla inilen ya da yelkenliyle \u00e7\u0131k\u0131lan Nil\u2019in tersine, tek y\u00f6nl\u00fc akar. Mezopotamya\u2019da r\u00fczg\u00e2rlar, t\u0131pk\u0131 sular gibi, i\u00e7erilere do\u011fru de\u011fil, da\u011fdan denize eser; o kadar ki, s\u00fckl\u00fcm p\u00fckl\u00fcm geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015flerinde, \u00e7orak yollar \u00fczerindeki k\u00f6ylerine onlar\u0131 \u00e7ekecek olan e\u015fek ve kat\u0131rlar\u0131 da gidi\u015flerinde ta\u015f\u0131mak zorunda kal\u0131r sandallar.Uzak kuzeyde do\u011fan, kayalar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan f\u0131\u015fk\u0131ran Dicle ile ba\u015f etmeyi sadece birka\u00e7 Ermeni kay\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 g\u00f6ze alabilir. Yolcular\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmad\u0131\u011f\u0131, birbirini ge\u00e7medi\u011fi, birbirine selam ve i\u015faret vermedi\u011fi garip bir yoldur Dicle yolu. Koruyucu mele\u011fi olmayan, k\u0131y\u0131daki hurma a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131ndan ba\u015fka e\u015flik edeni bulunmayan gemicinin \u00e7ekti\u011fi yaln\u0131zl\u0131k duygusu, bu y\u00fczdendir.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ermenilerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu b\u00fcy\u00fck ticaretin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 co\u011frafya yani Do\u011fu Anadolu, Ermenistan ve G\u00fcrcistan\u2019\u0131 i\u00e7ine alan b\u00f6lge, \u015farab\u0131n anavatan\u0131 olarak kabul ediliyor.<\/p>\n

\u2018T\u00dcRK\u0130YE\u2019DEK\u0130 BA\u011eLARIN YALNIZCA Y\u00dcZDE 3\u2019\u00dc \u015eARAPLIK \u00dcZ\u00dcM BA\u011eI\u2019<\/strong><\/p>\n

2012 y\u0131l\u0131n\u0131n Ocak ay\u0131nda Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n Yeghegnadzor \u015fehrinin yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda ki \u2018Areni-1\u2019 ma\u011faras\u0131nda antik bir \u015faraphane kal\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131 bulundu ve 6000 y\u0131ll\u0131k kal\u0131nt\u0131 bilinen en eski \u015faraphane olarak kay\u0131tlara ge\u00e7ti. Bug\u00fcn bu miras\u0131n izleri h\u00e2l\u00e2 ya\u015famakta. Bir\u00e7ok dilde \u015farap anlam\u0131na gelen \u2018wine-vin-oneo\u2019 kelimelerinin k\u00f6k\u00fc, Hitit\u00e7e \u015farap kenti anlamana gelen \u2018wiyanawanda\u2019 dan gelmektedir. Deniz ticaretinin \u00f6nde gelen toplumlar\u0131 olan Yunanl\u0131lar ve \u00f6zellikle Finikeliler, ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc Akdeniz\u2019in bat\u0131s\u0131na (Kuzeybat\u0131 Afrika, Sicilya, G\u00fcney \u0130talya, \u0130spanya ve Fransa) ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131lar. Fransa\u2019da ilk ba\u011flar M\u00d6 500 y\u0131llar\u0131nda, G\u00fcney Fransa\u2019ya yerle\u015fen Yunanl\u0131 g\u00f6\u00e7menler taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015fsa da, bu \u00fclkede ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n geli\u015fmesinde Romal\u0131lar daha etkili olmu\u015ftur (M.\u00d6. 1. y\u00fczy\u0131l).<\/p>\n

Roma \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun geni\u015flemesiyle birlikte ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k Almanya\u2019n\u0131n Ren Vadisi\u2019ne ula\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bu d\u00f6nemde, \u00fclkeler aras\u0131 \u015farap ticareti Romal\u0131lar\u0131n hakimiyetinde kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u0130mparatorlu\u011fun \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f\u00fc ile birlikte, \u015farap ticaretinde \u00f6nemli bir gerileme ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015f olsa da, bu d\u00f6nemde b\u00fct\u00fcn Avrupa\u2019da h\u0131zla yay\u0131lmakta olan Hristiyanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n etkisi ile \u015farap ticaretinin yeniden geli\u015fti\u011fi g\u00f6zleniyor. Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u2019da (MS 500-1000) ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k ve \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n manast\u0131rlar\u0131n himayesinde oldu\u011fu g\u00f6r\u00fclmektedir. T\u00fcrkiye ya\u015f \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00fcretimi alan\u0131nda d\u00fcnyada be\u015f ya da alt\u0131nc\u0131 s\u0131rada yer almaktad\u0131r. Ancak, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde mevcut ba\u011flar\u0131n yaln\u0131zca y\u00fczde 3\u2019\u00fc \u015farapl\u0131k \u00fcz\u00fcm olarak de\u011ferlendirilmektedir. Bunun sebebi olarak Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6nemindeki i\u00e7ki yasaklar\u0131 ve bu nedenle ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131ktaki gerileme g\u00f6sterilebilir. \u00dcz\u00fcm yeti\u015ftirilmesi kaderinde yaz\u0131l\u0131 olan bereketli Anadolu topraklar\u0131, Osmanl\u0131 hakimiyetine girdi\u011finde, ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k ve \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131kta gerileme ba\u015flad\u0131. Bu d\u00f6nemden itibaren sadece Rum ve Ermeni topluluklar\u0131n\u0131n temsil etti\u011fi etnik az\u0131nl\u0131k gruplar\u0131 \u015farap ve hatta \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00fcretimiyle ilgilendiler. D\u00f6rt y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131 a\u015fk\u0131n bir yasaklama d\u00f6nemi s\u00fcresince, binlerce hektarl\u0131k ba\u011f rekoltesi, yerel \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn sofrada t\u00fcketimi veya kuru \u00fcz\u00fcm yap\u0131lmas\u0131yla t\u00fcketildi. Ancak, bu noktada Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n i\u00e7ki k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc yabana atmamak gerekmektedir. Kanuni, I. Ahmed, IV. Murad, Avc\u0131 Mehmed, III. Selim d\u00f6nemlerinde her ne kadar i\u00e7ki yasa\u011f\u0131 konulsa da, \u00f6rne\u011fin Evliya \u00c7elebi\u2019ye g\u00f6re \u0130stanbul\u2019da 160 meyhane ve 6 bin civar\u0131nda i\u00e7ki satan d\u00fckkan oldu\u011fu belirtiliyor. Tanzimattan sonra bat\u0131l\u0131la\u015fma hareketleri \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 canland\u0131r\u0131yor ve 1900\u2019lerin ba\u015f\u0131nda Avrupa ba\u011flar\u0131 filoksera hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile k\u0131vran\u0131rken, Osmanl\u0131 300 milyon litre \u015farap \u00fcretip, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 ihra\u00e7 ediyor.<\/p>\n

\u2018EN \u0130Y\u0130 \u015eARAP, EN SEVD\u0130\u011e\u0130N\u0130Z \u015eARAPTIR\u2019<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015earap ve yemek ili\u015fkisi konusunda neler s\u00f6ylersiniz? Bu ili\u015fki bazen abart\u0131l\u0131yor ve ba\u015fka anlamlar y\u00fckleniyor mu?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bazen \u00e7ok abart\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 olsa da yemek-\u015farap uyumu \u00f6nemli bir detay. Yemekler zaten herkese farkl\u0131 lezzetler sunsa da yemek pi\u015firmek, yemekleri birbiri ile e\u015fle\u015ftirmek ya da \u015farapla beraber sunmak; asl\u0131nda hepsi i\u00e7inde kimya bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r. Yemek pi\u015firmek ve lezzeti yakalamak da asl\u0131nda kimyad\u0131r. Mamam, zeytinya\u011fl\u0131lar\u0131 pi\u015firirken mutlaka \u00e7ok az da olsa \u015feker kullan\u0131rd\u0131. Neden yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bilmez ama mamas\u0131ndan \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fi gibi yapard\u0131 ki b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle yayam da kendi mamas\u0131ndan \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fi i\u00e7in \u00f6yle yapard\u0131 ve o da bilmezdi neden yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131. Asl\u0131nda zeytinya\u011fl\u0131lara \u015feker koymak \u00e7ok basit bir kimyasal reaksiyonu sa\u011fl\u0131yor. Zeytinya\u011f\u0131n\u0131n ve zeytinya\u011fl\u0131lar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funda kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z limonun sahip oldu\u011fu asidi dengeliyor. Hem yemekler yap\u0131l\u0131rken lezzeti ortaya \u00e7\u0131karmak i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lan malzemeler, pi\u015firme y\u00f6ntemleri, yeme\u011fin ham maddesi kadar yeme\u011fin lezzetinde etkilidir. Kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z baharat ya da pi\u015firme y\u00f6nteminiz yeme\u011fin lezzetini b\u00fcy\u00fck oranda olu\u015fturur ve bu ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan lezzeti g\u00f6z \u00f6n\u00fcnde bulundurarak yemekler ile \u015faraplar\u0131 e\u015fle\u015ftirmeniz gerekir. Yemek ile \u015farab\u0131n uyumu i\u00e7in \u201cevlilik\u201d deyimi \u00e7ok kullan\u0131l\u0131r. Yemek ile \u015farab\u0131n kusursuz bir armoniyi yakalay\u0131p birbirini bask\u0131lamadan lezzetlerini yans\u0131tmalar\u0131n\u0131n metaforudur bu evlilik laf\u0131 ama ne kadar do\u011frudur bilemiyorum. Bazen \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 karakterdeki insanlar da \u00e7ok mutlu evliliklere sahip olabiliyorlar. T\u0131pk\u0131 \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 lezzetteki yemek ve \u015faraplar\u0131n birbirleri ile ender de olsa iyi uyum yakalamas\u0131 gibi. Ama \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir nokta var o da \u015fu: En iyi \u015farap, en sevdi\u011finiz \u015farapt\u0131r. En iyi uyum da sizin en \u00e7ok ho\u015funuza gidendir\u2026<\/p>\n

Kaynaklar
\nHerodot, Istoriai, \u0130\u015f Bankas\u0131 Yay\u0131nlar\u0131, \u00e7ev. M\u00fcntekim \u00d6kmen
\nAmin Maalouf, I\u015f\u0131k Bah\u00e7eleri, Yap\u0131 Kredi Yay\u0131nlar\u0131, \u00e7ev. Esin Talu \u00c7elikkan<\/p>\n

LEVON BA\u011eI\u015e K\u0130MD\u0130R?<\/strong><\/p>\n

1980 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130stanbul\u2019da do\u011fdu. Kamu Y\u00f6netimi e\u011fitimi al\u0131rken \u015faraba merak duymaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Bu merak, zamanla profesyonel hayat\u0131 haline geldi. WSET, London Wine Academy, Ecole du Vin gibi e\u011fitim kurumlar\u0131nda sertifika programlar\u0131na kat\u0131larak ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 sertifikalar ile bilgilerini peki\u015ftirdi. 2003-2008 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda ba\u011fbozumu d\u00f6neminde ba\u011fda ve kavda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma \u015fans\u0131na sahip oldu. 13 y\u0131ld\u0131r en sevdi\u011fi \u015feyi, yani \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 profesyonel bir meslek olarak y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fcyor. H\u00e2len Kavakl\u0131dere \u015earaplar\u0131 E\u011fitim Koordinat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc\u2019ne ve haftal\u0131k Agos Gazetesi\u2019nde k\u00f6\u015fe yazarl\u0131\u011f\u0131na devam ediyor.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.gazeteduvar.com.tr\/hayat\/2019\/12\/29\/levon-bagis-ile-ermeni-mutfagi-bir-yeryuzu-soleni\/<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yemek ve \u015farap uzman\u0131 Agos Gazetesi yazar\u0131 Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f, Dr. Berken D\u00f6ner’e Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n lezzetlerini, sofra adab\u0131n\u0131 ve \u015farab\u0131n binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihini anlatt\u0131. Ermenilerin en \u00e7ok gurur duydu\u011fu mezesi topik. Bu nedenle eskiden gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar\u0131n \u00e7eyizine i\u015flenmi\u015f, nak\u0131\u015fl\u0131 topik bezleri konurmu\u015f ve topik yapmas\u0131n\u0131 bilmeyen k\u0131z kolay kolay evlenemezmi\u015f. Bug\u00fcn ise pek \u00e7ok yerde sat\u0131lmas\u0131na […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":56291,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,71,18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-56289","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-mulakatlar","category-mutfak"],"yoast_head":"\nLevon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f ile Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131: Bir yery\u00fcz\u00fc \u015f\u00f6leni - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f ile Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131: Bir yery\u00fcz\u00fc \u015f\u00f6leni - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Yemek ve \u015farap uzman\u0131 Agos Gazetesi yazar\u0131 Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f, Dr. Berken D\u00f6ner’e Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n lezzetlerini, sofra adab\u0131n\u0131 ve \u015farab\u0131n binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihini anlatt\u0131. Ermenilerin en \u00e7ok gurur duydu\u011fu mezesi topik. Bu nedenle eskiden gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar\u0131n \u00e7eyizine i\u015flenmi\u015f, nak\u0131\u015fl\u0131 topik bezleri konurmu\u015f ve topik yapmas\u0131n\u0131 bilmeyen k\u0131z kolay kolay evlenemezmi\u015f. 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Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f ile Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131: Bir yery\u00fcz\u00fc \u015f\u00f6leni - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","og_description":"Yemek ve \u015farap uzman\u0131 Agos Gazetesi yazar\u0131 Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f, Dr. Berken D\u00f6ner’e Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n lezzetlerini, sofra adab\u0131n\u0131 ve \u015farab\u0131n binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihini anlatt\u0131. Ermenilerin en \u00e7ok gurur duydu\u011fu mezesi topik. Bu nedenle eskiden gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar\u0131n \u00e7eyizine i\u015flenmi\u015f, nak\u0131\u015fl\u0131 topik bezleri konurmu\u015f ve topik yapmas\u0131n\u0131 bilmeyen k\u0131z kolay kolay evlenemezmi\u015f. Bug\u00fcn ise pek \u00e7ok yerde sat\u0131lmas\u0131na […]","og_url":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289","og_site_name":"Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","article_published_time":"2019-12-30T06:52:55+00:00","og_image":[{"width":736,"height":457,"url":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/12\/s\u00f6yle\u015fii\u00e7.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"admin","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"admin","Est. reading time":"20 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289"},"author":{"name":"admin","@id":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/#\/schema\/person\/096f1d38a12cce57fb855b485ed24c9e"},"headline":"Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f ile Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131: Bir yery\u00fcz\u00fc \u015f\u00f6leni","datePublished":"2019-12-30T06:52:55+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289"},"wordCount":4028,"commentCount":0,"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/12\/s\u00f6yle\u015fii\u00e7.jpg","articleSection":["Haberler","M\u00fclakatlar","Mutfak"],"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289","url":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=56289","name":"Levon Ba\u011f\u0131\u015f ile Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131: Bir yery\u00fcz\u00fc \u015f\u00f6leni - 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