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Oray E\u011fin<\/strong><\/p>\n Serdar Turgut<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0bir s\u00fcredir T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin tan\u0131t\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7in\u00a0T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n\u00a0\u00f6n plana \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lmas\u0131 gerekti\u011fini yaz\u0131yor. Hakikaten de son y\u0131llarda \u00f6zellikle Netflix\u2019in \u00f6nc\u00fc oldu\u011fu belgeselleri ciddi bir ekonomi ve tan\u0131t\u0131m f\u0131rsat\u0131na i\u015faret ediyor. Ben bile yak\u0131nlarda\u00a0Meksiko\u2019ya yeniden sadece sokak yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in gidece\u011fim. YAZILI RE\u00c7ETELER YOK<\/strong><\/p>\n T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n d\u00fcnyaya a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131na bir ba\u015fka engel de re\u00e7etelerin yaz\u0131l\u0131 olmamas\u0131, ku\u015faklararas\u0131 sadece kulaktan kula\u011fa aktar\u0131lmas\u0131.\u00a0Herkes genellikle annesinden g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yeme\u011fi yap\u0131yor,<\/strong>\u00a0o y\u00fczden de ayn\u0131 yemek farkl\u0131 evlerde kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za bamba\u015fka \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. Genelde tarif soruldu\u011funda da iyi yemek yapan ev a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131ndan profesyonellere kilit bir malzemenin ya da teknik \u00f6zellikle gizleniyor. Sanki o s\u0131r ortaya \u00e7\u0131ksa yeme\u011fi yapan\u0131n de\u011feri d\u00fc\u015fecekmi\u015f gibi. YABANCILAR B\u0130ZDEN \u0130Y\u0130 B\u0130L\u0130YOR<\/strong><\/p>\n Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz g\u00fcnlerde T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 dendi\u011finde d\u00fcnyan\u0131n akl\u0131na gelen isimlerden biri olan\u00a0Musa Da\u011fdeviren\u2019in \u201cThe Turkish Cookbook\u201d<\/strong>\u00a0adl\u0131 kitab\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131 hem Amerika\u2019da hem de \u0130ngiltere\u2019de. Burada da edit\u00f6rle yazar\u0131n aras\u0131nda bir dil sorunu sayfalara yans\u0131m\u0131\u015f gibi. Bir\u00e7ok n\u00fcans ve teknik ya \u00e7eviride kaybolmu\u015f, ya da y\u00fczlerce tarif teker teker denenmeden \u00f6ylece yay\u0131na verilmi\u015f.\u00a0Musa Da\u011fdeviren\u2019in revani gibi kimi tarifleri \u00f6nerdi\u011fi kaplara uymuyor bile; o \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclere g\u00f6re kurabiye boyutunda revani yap\u0131labilir en \u00e7ok.<\/strong>\u00a0Burada da restoranc\u0131 olarak \u00e7ok ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 olan birinin i\u015f kitap yazmaya, profesyonel tarifleri ev a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131na uyarlamaya gelince yeterli kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. T\u00fcrkiye dahil Ortado\u011fu mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ok iyi bilen\u00a0Claudia Roden<\/strong>\u00a0bu konuda daha ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131, T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n T\u00fcrklere b\u0131rak\u0131lmayacak kadar \u00f6nemli oldu\u011funu g\u00f6steriyor adeta. ***<\/p>\n Evet, b\u00fcfeler y\u0131k\u0131lmal\u0131<\/p>\n Serdar Turgut benim Taksim\u2019deki b\u00fcfelerin y\u0131k\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 arzu etmeme de kar\u015f\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.\u00a0Birbirinin ayn\u0131s\u0131 tostu, \u0131slak hamburgeri ve ka\u015farl\u0131 d\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fc yapan o b\u00fcfeler g\u00fczelim kiliseyi kapat\u0131yor.<\/strong>\u00a0Y\u0131k\u0131lsalar meydan ferahlayacak, g\u00fczel \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f arkadaki kilise ortaya \u00e7\u0131kacak ve\u00a0yeni yap\u0131lacak camiyle T\u00fcrkiye mozai\u011fini yans\u0131tacak.<\/strong>\u00a0Caddenin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda baklava sat\u0131n alan Arap turistler ne der, bilmem. ***<\/p>\n Ar\u015fiv kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmak ne g\u00fczel bir zevktir<\/strong><\/p>\n Kanat Atkaya<\/strong>\u2019n\u0131n k\u00f6\u015fesinde okudum. Me\u011ferse her zaman tart\u0131\u015f\u0131lan Beyo\u011flu hakk\u0131nda zaman\u0131nda kimler neler demi\u015f\u2026\u00a0Bedrettin Talan\u2019<\/strong>\u0131n tarihi binalara ald\u0131rmadan buldozerle yol a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 tart\u0131\u015f\u0131l\u0131rken hi\u00e7 beklenmeyecek isimlerden gelen tepkilere bug\u00fcnden bak\u0131nca \u015fa\u015f\u0131rd\u0131m.
\n<\/em><\/strong>T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131na da bir ilgi oldu\u011fu kesin. Londra\u2019da Borsa ekibinin a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 R\u00fcya,\u00a0Civan Er<\/strong>\u2019in \u0130yi Lokantas\u0131 epey bas\u0131nda yer ald\u0131.\u00a0New York Times<\/strong>\u2019da menemen tarifi bile \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131.
\nAncak T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n d\u00fcnyada tan\u0131t\u0131m\u0131 konusunda \u015f\u00fcphelerim var. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc\u00a0hakikaten T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 nedir,<\/strong>\u00a0ger\u00e7ekten biliyor muyuz? Ya da daha k\u0131\u015fk\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 bir soru soray\u0131m:\u00a0Ger\u00e7ekten T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 diye bir \u015fey var m\u0131?<\/strong>
\nSaray\u2019a yurtd\u0131\u015f\u0131ndan getirilen a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar (Osmanl\u0131\u2019dan bahsediyorum) kendi k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerini, geleneklerini, baharatlar\u0131n\u0131 da beraberinde getirmi\u015fler. Zamanla kimi tatlar kayboldu, kimi de tarihe kald\u0131. T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 olarak \u00f6v\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz yemeklerin tamam\u0131 ne kadar T\u00fcrk?\u00a0\u0130ran, Ermeni, Yunan mutfaklar\u0131ndan uyarlamalar \u00e7ok var,<\/strong>\u00a0bir\u00e7ok yeme\u011fin izi bir ba\u015fka co\u011frafyaya dayan\u0131yor. Orta Asya\u2019dan g\u00f6\u00e7 ederken beraberinde getirilmi\u015f, yolda \u00f6\u011frenilmi\u015f lezzetler var. Hangisinin \u00f6zg\u00fcn, hangisinin uyarlama oldu\u011funu bilmek neredeyse imkans\u0131z.Yo\u011furdu icat etmi\u015fiz ama devam\u0131?<\/strong>\u00a0Bu tart\u0131\u015fmay\u0131 uzatmak i\u00e7in biraz daha ders \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmam gerekli.
\n\u015eimdilik sadece akl\u0131mdan ge\u00e7en ba\u015fka sorular\u0131 aktaray\u0131m.<\/p>\n
\nT\u00fcrklerin yaz\u0131l\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcre gecikmeli ge\u00e7mesinin (hala reddetmelerinin) sonucu mu?Hala bir pilav\u0131n nas\u0131l yap\u0131laca\u011f\u0131 ya da menemenin so\u011fan\u0131 konusunda bile uzla\u015fma yok.<\/strong>\u00a0Her \u015feyi b\u0131rakt\u0131m, \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclerin ne anlama geldi\u011fi bile belli de\u011fil.\u00a0\u201cBir su barda\u011f\u0131\u201d<\/strong>\u00a0demek? Herkesin evinde farkl\u0131 su bardaklar\u0131 var; bunu mililitre olarak aktarmak \u00e7ok mu zor?
\nYaz\u0131l\u0131 kurallar\u0131n\u0131n olmamas\u0131 T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n d\u00fcnyaya a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131na da engel. Bir\u00e7ok \u00fclke mutfa\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in ge\u00e7erli ama \u00f6zellikle\u00a0T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki T\u00fcrk lokantalar\u0131 bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc standard\u0131 tutturam\u0131yor,<\/strong>\u00a0memleketi arat\u0131yor. Bunda da tariflerin standartla\u015fmamas\u0131, yaz\u0131l\u0131 aktar\u0131lmamas\u0131 etkili. Yeme\u011fe kafay\u0131 obsesif derecede takm\u0131\u015f olan\u00a0Orhan Ye\u011fen<\/strong>\u2019in New York\u2019taki\u00a0\u015eip \u015eak<\/strong>\u00a0lokantas\u0131 gibi birka\u00e7 \u00f6rnek d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda milyonlarca dolar yat\u0131r\u0131mla d\u00fcnyan\u0131n farkl\u0131 \u015fehirlerinde a\u00e7\u0131lan T\u00fcrk lokantalar\u0131ndan hep h\u00fcsranla ayr\u0131ld\u0131m ben. (Bu arada \u015eip \u015eak hakikaten T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki T\u00fcrk lokantalar\u0131ndan bile iyi ve New York i\u00e7in bile pahal\u0131 say\u0131labilir.)
\nVe ne yaz\u0131k ki T\u00fcrk mutfa\u011f\u0131 dendi\u011fin et pornosunun y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131 Nusret geliyor akla son y\u0131llarda, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc yeme\u011fi de\u011fil \u015fovu sat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
\nKonu daha dallan\u0131p budaklan\u0131r gibi. Belki meyhaneciler denize atmazsa\u00a0Vedat Milor<\/strong>\u00a0da kat\u0131l\u0131r aram\u0131za.<\/p>\n
\nBa\u015fta Bambi olmak \u00fczere y\u0131llard\u0131r s\u0131k s\u0131k gitti\u011fim bu b\u00fcfeler kentin en k\u0131ymetli meydan\u0131nda estetik d\u0131\u015f\u0131 bir g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fc veriyor.\u00a0Sokak yeme\u011fine kar\u015f\u0131 de\u011filim, bay\u0131l\u0131r\u0131m.<\/strong>
\nAma b\u00fcfelerin bu kadar k\u0131ymetli bir yeri i\u015fgal etmeye haklar\u0131 yok. Ta\u015f\u0131nabilirler, kamyon ya da stant olarak faaliyet g\u00f6sterebilirler, yeniden tasarlanacak meydanda daha farkl\u0131 bir yer ayarlanabilir bu b\u00fcfelere. Benim 20\u2019li ya\u015flar\u0131mda oldu\u011fu gibi gen\u00e7ler hala sabah kar\u015f\u0131 evden \u00f6nceki son durak olarak buralara u\u011frayabilirler elbette.
\nB\u00fcfelerin yerinden kald\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131 kenti ferahlatacakt\u0131r, ayn\u0131 zamanda simgesel bir anlam\u0131 da olur bu de\u011fi\u015fimin.<\/strong>
\nY\u0131llard\u0131r ayn\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc sunan ve kalite lezzet olarak birbirinden farkl\u0131 olmayan bir s\u00fcr\u00fc b\u00fcfenin neden yan yana durdu\u011fu da benim i\u00e7in gizemini korur.\u00a0Ufuk G\u00fcldemir \u201cB\u00fcfeci \u0130slam\u0131\u201d<\/strong>\u00a0kavram\u0131n\u0131 ortaya att\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Taksim\u2019deki bu b\u00fcfelerden yola \u00e7\u0131karak kavram\u0131 yorumlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. B\u00fcfeci vizyonu geni\u015flemek istedi\u011finde yeni \u015fubeyi \u00f6nce iki d\u00fckkan a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya, sonra da yolun tam kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na a\u00e7m\u0131\u015ft\u0131. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin dinamikleriyle ilgili pek \u00e7ok i\u015fareti bu k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck b\u00fcfenin kapitalizmle s\u0131nav\u0131ndan anlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.
\nO y\u00fczden yeni bir meydanda eskinin \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc b\u00fcfelerin kalkmas\u0131ndan yanay\u0131m.<\/p>\n
\nAttila \u0130lhan:<\/strong>\u00a0\u201cEski \u0130stanbul y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor, mahvoluyor, diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnenler var. Mahvolan Pera\u2019d\u0131r. Pera\u2019n\u0131n da T\u00fcrkl\u00fck ile alakas\u0131 yoktur. Y\u0131k\u0131lmas\u0131nda hi\u00e7 sak\u0131nca yoktur. Zaten buralar\u0131n tamam\u0131 Ermeni mimarlar taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.\u201d
\n\u0130lhan Berk:<\/strong>\u00a0\u201cEski Beyo\u011flu dedi\u011fimiz bir az\u0131nl\u0131k kompradorlu\u011fu, bir talan, hara\u00e7 dukal\u0131\u011f\u0131d\u0131r. Bu ise hi\u00e7bir \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fi b\u00fcy\u00fctemez.\u201d
\nPeki ya\u00a0Erkek\u00e7e<\/strong>\u00a0dergisi?
\n\u201cBeyo\u011flu y\u0131k\u0131lmal\u0131d\u0131r\u2026 Bu pisli\u011fi temizlemenin tek yolu Beyo\u011flu\u2019nun o \u00e7irkefinin \u00fczerinden buldozerle ge\u00e7ip geni\u015f caddeler a\u00e7mak, \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f yap\u0131lar, i\u015fyerleri ve meskenlerle\u00a0\u00e7irkefin bar\u0131nmas\u0131n\u0131n ve saklanmas\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne ge\u00e7mektir.\u201d<\/strong>
\nErkek\u00e7e\u2019deki yaz\u0131y\u0131 kimin yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 Kanat s\u00f6ylememi\u015f, ama benim bir tahmin var. Hadi bir bilmece vereyim: O zamanlar\u00a0Sean Connery<\/strong>\u2019e benzerdi. O yazmad\u0131ysa bile onun ruhu, etkisi sinmi\u015f \u015fu sat\u0131rlara bile.
\nBeyo\u011flu hakk\u0131nda s\u00f6ylenenler kadar eski kup\u00fcrleri bulup \u00e7\u0131karmak da ilgimi \u00e7ekti.\u00a0Bir zamanlar evimin bir odas\u0131n\u0131 b\u00f6yle bir ar\u015five d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcm.<\/strong>\u0130nternet\u2019te olmayan bir s\u00fcr\u00fc dergi, gazete kup\u00fcr\u00fc, hatta gazete o odada dururdu. Bazen saatlerce Milliyet ar\u015fivine giriyorum, eski sayfalara bak\u0131yorum. (Demir\u00f6ren\u2019in ay\u0131racak paras\u0131 kalmad\u0131 san\u0131r\u0131m,\u00a0 sitenin bak\u0131m\u0131 o kadar k\u00f6t\u00fc ki bir \u015fey okumak giderek zorla\u015f\u0131yor.)
\nKanat Atkaya da sahaflar\u0131 dola\u015fan, gerekti\u011finde \u00e7\u00f6p evde ya\u015famay\u0131 g\u00f6ze alacak kadar biriktiren bir gazeteci. Ne b\u00fcy\u00fck zenginliktir bir gazeteci i\u00e7in ar\u015fiv; hayat\u0131\u201ctwitre\u201d<\/strong>\u00a0sananlar bilmez. \u015e\u00f6yle bir kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131nca bile neler neler \u00e7\u0131kar.<\/p>\n