{"id":43793,"date":"2017-02-08T07:05:56","date_gmt":"2017-02-08T12:05:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=43793"},"modified":"2017-02-08T07:05:56","modified_gmt":"2017-02-08T12:05:56","slug":"yerevan-ermenistanda-bir-turkiyeli-daha","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=43793","title":{"rendered":"YEREVAN\u2026 Ermenistan\u2019da bir T\u00fcrkiyeli \u201cdaha\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Ermeni<\/a>Serdar KORUCU<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ermenistan: E\u011fer serinin ilk yaz\u0131s\u0131, \u201cYeni Ba\u015flayanlar \u0130\u00e7in Ermenistan\u201d\u0131 okuduysan\u0131z \u015fimdi \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkenti i\u00e7in tavsiyeleri teker teker payla\u015fmaya ba\u015flayal\u0131m. \u0130lk sorumuz, Ermenistan\u2019a nas\u0131l gidilir?<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkiye ile Ermenistan aras\u0131nda diplomatik ili\u015fki yok ama gidecek yol \u00e7ok. \u0130sterseniz \u0130stanbul-Yerevan hatt\u0131nda do\u011frudan u\u00e7abilirsiniz. \u0130sterseniz de G\u00fcrcistan \u00fczerinden karayolu ile Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkentine ula\u015fabilirsiniz. Uzun kara yolculuklar\u0131na dayan\u0131kl\u0131 olanlar, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den ara\u00e7la G\u00fcrcistan\u2019a girip oradan da Ermenistan\u2019a ge\u00e7ebilir. \u201cYok, o kadar yolu kald\u0131ramam\u201d diyenlerden biriyseniz, ki ben b\u00f6yleyim, kolay yol Tiflis\u2019e u\u00e7akla gidip oradan \u015fehir i\u00e7inde kalkan minib\u00fcslere binip Yerevan\u2019a gitmek. Tecr\u00fcbe ile sabittir. Bu yolla Kafkaslar\u0131n incisi Tiflis\u2019i de gezme \u015fans\u0131n\u0131z olur. Ve evet ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir \u015fehir.<\/p>\n

Kara s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndan ge\u00e7i\u015fle havaalan\u0131 s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndan ge\u00e7mek farkl\u0131 tabii. \u015eansl\u0131ysan\u0131z G\u00fcrcistan-Ermenistan s\u0131n\u0131r kap\u0131s\u0131nda paran\u0131z\u0131 Ermeni para birimi \u201cdram\u201da \u00e7evirmek i\u00e7in kurulu d\u00f6viz otomat\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131r. \u00c7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorsa s\u0131n\u0131rdan ge\u00e7meniz 10 dakika. \u00dcstelik memurlar hi\u00e7 de turistlere \u201ctakm\u0131yorlar\u201d. T\u00fcrkiye Cumhuriyeti vatanda\u015f\u0131 filan diye\u2026 D\u00f6viz otomat\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmazsa da \u00fcz\u00fclmeyin s\u0131n\u0131r g\u00f6revlileri yard\u0131mc\u0131 oluyor.<\/p>\n

\u015eimdi Yerevan\u2019a geldiyseniz yeme-i\u00e7me \u00f6nerilerine gelelim h\u0131zla. Bu kez al\u0131\u015f\u0131lan\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda geceden ba\u015flayal\u0131m. Malumunuz Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n pek turistik kentlerinde bile gece 12\u2019den sonra yiyecek bir \u015fey bulmak b\u00fcy\u00fck sorun. Ama Yerevan \u00f6yle de\u011fil. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc SAS Marketleri sizi bekliyor. Hem de birbirinden lezzetli ve ucuz sebze-meyve, et-\u015fark\u00fcteri \u00e7e\u015fitleri ile birlikte\u2026 \u00dcstelik bu marketlerde d\u00f6vizinizi \u00e7ok uygun bir kurla \u201cdram\u201da da d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcrebiliyorsunuz.<\/p>\n

Ve tabii ki alkol se\u00e7enekleri\u2026 Avrupa\u2019da bile i\u00e7kiyi \u00e7ok ucuza ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in mutluluktan u\u00e7anlar, Yerevan\u2019da bu \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn keyfini \u00e7\u0131kartacaklar. Hem de daha \u00f6nce tatmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 lezzetler e\u015fli\u011finde. \u00c7e\u015fitli Ermeni biralar\u0131, Rus votkalar\u0131 ve Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n me\u015fhur Ararat konya\u011f\u0131na kadar\u2026 Ve hatta ziyaretlerinizden birinin adresi de muhakkak Ararat Konyak Fabrikas\u0131 olmal\u0131. Her ne kadar art\u0131k Frans\u0131zlara ait olsa da, bu milli i\u00e7kinin kayna\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmeniz gerek. \u00dcstelik buras\u0131 sadece bir \u00fcretim alan\u0131 da de\u011fil\u2026<\/p>\n

Ve alkolle ilgili bir ba\u015fka iyi haber \u015fu: E\u011fer \u0130stanbul\u2019dan geliyorsan\u0131z bilirsiniz ki \u00fc\u00e7 be\u015f kadeh rak\u0131dan, \u015faraptan sonra insan ba\u015f a\u011fr\u0131s\u0131 ile uyan\u0131r, \u201changover\u201d olursunuz ya. Tamam sizde olmuyorsa da, olan arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131z muhakkak vard\u0131r. \u0130\u015fte bu Yerevan\u2019da yok. Havas\u0131ndan m\u0131d\u0131r, suyundan m\u0131d\u0131r, \u015fehrin co\u011frafi yap\u0131s\u0131ndan m\u0131d\u0131r bilinmez ama geceden kalma ya\u015famayacaks\u0131n\u0131z.<\/p>\n

Gelelim o zaman nerede ne yiyip, ne i\u00e7ece\u011finize. \u015earapla ilgili mekan \u00e7ok. \u015eehrin d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131na da\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f keyifli yerler var. Ama e\u011fer hem daha \u00f6nce tatmad\u0131\u011f\u0131m \u015faraplar, hem de yemedi\u011fim peynirler olsun diyorsan\u0131z sizi \u201cIn Vino\u201dya alal\u0131m. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yer. Sevimli. Ama servisinde de, \u00e7e\u015fitlerinde de iddial\u0131. Garsonlar h\u0131zl\u0131, arkada\u015f canl\u0131s\u0131. \u015earap ve peynir konusunda tavsiye verecek kadar bilgili. Ayr\u0131ca unutmamak gerekir ki, bu mekan Yerevan\u2019da gayet pop\u00fcler. Sokaklarda, gazetelerde, dergilerde yer alan reklamlardaki \u00fcnl\u00fc oyuncular\u0131 g\u00f6rme olas\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z y\u00fcksek. Yani bir nevi Cihangir\u2019in ilk g\u00fcnleri. Daha az kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131, daha \u00e7ok keyiflisi\u2026
\n\u201cBen yeme\u011fimi yiyeyim hemen ard\u0131ndan ya da o s\u0131rada dans da edebileyim\u201d diyorsan\u0131z o zaman Calumet Ethnic Lounge sizin mekan\u0131n\u0131z. Yerevan\u2019da kalaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z gecelerinizin b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc burada ge\u00e7ecek emin olun. Bir yandan \u00e7ok iyi T\u00fcrk\u00e7e bilen Halepli Ermeni Nareg Kalayciyan ve arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n elinden lezzetli yemekler yiyecek (ama Ortado\u011fu mutfa\u011f\u0131 de\u011fil, bildi\u011finiz bira yan\u0131nda t\u00fcketilecek \u015feyler), hem de \u0130ranl\u0131 Ermeni Artin Niazi\u2019nin birbirinden g\u00fczel kokteyllerini i\u00e7ip, daha \u00f6nce dinlemedi\u011finiz par\u00e7alarla m\u00fczi\u011fin ritmine kendinizi b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 fark edeceksiniz. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131ndan gelmi\u015f diaspora Ermenileri ile birlikte. Mekan\u0131n tek k\u00f6t\u00fc yan\u0131 ise \u201cdumans\u0131z hava sahas\u0131\u201dna al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f b\u00fcnyelerin burada biraz sars\u0131lmas\u0131. Yine de bu mekan size iyi gelecek. D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte bir te\u015fekk\u00fcr mailinizi bekleriz art\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Misafirperverli\u011fi ile an\u0131nda g\u00f6nl\u00fcn\u00fcz\u00fc kazanacak bir mekan daha var s\u0131rada: Soviet Union Cafe. Yerevan\u2019\u0131n yine yeni yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015f caddesi North Avenue\u2019ye bakan bu mekan\u0131n i\u015fletmecisi Kesabl\u0131 Ermeni Sevag Soulian. Ve o size emin olun \u00e7ok iyi mihmandarl\u0131k yapacakt\u0131r. Yok, sadece Yerevan\u2019\u0131 nas\u0131l gezece\u011finize dair de\u011fil, yeni i\u00e7kilerle tan\u0131\u015fabilmeniz i\u00e7in de. Mesela bize m\u00fcdavimi oldu\u011fumuz L\u00fcbnanl\u0131 \u201cdoudou shot\u201d\u0131 kendisi tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Biz anmadan, siz denemeden ge\u00e7meyin\u2026<\/p>\n

eki ak\u015fam ya da \u00f6\u011fle yemeklerinde ne yapal\u0131m derseniz, bizim tercihimiz bug\u00fcn T\u00fcrkiye s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131nda kalan topraklarda do\u011fup Ortado\u011fu \u00fczerinden Yerevan\u2019a gelmi\u015f k\u00fclt\u00fcr oldu. Belki hepsi hem\u015ferimiz oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in kan\u0131m\u0131z \u0131s\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kim bilir? B\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn anavatan\u0131 Urfa, Kilis, Antep\u2026 Sahi s\u00f6z Antep\u2019e gelmi\u015fken sizi \u201cAintab\u201d ile tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131ral\u0131m\u2026<\/p>\n

E\u011fer Yerevan\u2019\u0131n turist yo\u011funlu\u011funun artt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir d\u00f6nemde de\u011filseniz burada rahatl\u0131kla yer bulabiliyorsunuz, ba\u015fka t\u00fcrl\u00fcs\u00fc zor. Men\u00fc tan\u0131d\u0131k. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc buras\u0131 Bat\u0131 Ermenistan mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n en iyi \u00f6rneklerini bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor. Yani bug\u00fcn T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin do\u011fu ve g\u00fcneydo\u011fusunda kalan b\u00f6lgeden gelme tarifler. Dolmalar da var, i\u00e7li k\u00f6fte ve \u015fi\u015fler, kebaplar da. Ama bizim be\u011fendi\u011fimiz, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de asla bu lezzette bulamayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z tek \u015fey var: Mant\u0131. Nas\u0131l yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, neden bu kadar tad\u0131n\u0131 unutamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 bilmiyoruz ama Yerevan\u2019a gelmi\u015fseniz \u201cAintab\u201da gelip mant\u0131 s\u00f6ylemediyseniz pi\u015fman olun. Evet, l\u00fctfen pi\u015fman olun.<\/p>\n

Ve benzer bir mutfa\u011f\u0131 bamba\u015fka bir konseptte \u201cZeituna\u201dda da rastlayabilirsiniz. Buras\u0131 Cascade\u2019\u0131n \u00e7ok yak\u0131n\u0131nda. Ad\u0131 gibi zeytin ye\u015fili bir konseptte. Kendinizi Kafkaslardan \u00e7ok, Akdeniz k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ortas\u0131nda hissediyorsunuz. Mutfa\u011f\u0131 ortaklar\u0131ndan Shaghig Rastkelenian\u2019\u0131n annesine emanet. Tabii ki gitmi\u015fken Shaghig ile de tan\u0131\u015fman\u0131z gerekiyor. \u201cLive Love Armenia\u201d onun ve arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n projesi. Ayr\u0131ca mankenlik yap\u0131yor, bu mekan\u0131n PR\u2019\u0131n\u0131 da \u00fcstleniyor.<\/p>\n

Ev yap\u0131m\u0131 yemeklerin aras\u0131nda neler yok ki? Bildiklerimiz, \u00f6\u011frendiklerimiz ya da bilip de farkl\u0131 sunum ve pi\u015fimine \u015fahit olduklar\u0131m\u0131z. Sade ve \u015f\u0131k dekorasyonu da cabas\u0131\u2026 K\u0131sacas\u0131 buras\u0131 listede olmazsa \u00e7ok \u015fey kaybetmi\u015f olursunuz\u2026<\/p>\n

Bir ba\u015fka mekan ise L\u00fcbnan esintili bir restoran: Taboule. \u0130stanbul\u2019da da meyhanelerde tatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z humus, baba gannu\u015f gibi mezelerin asl\u0131nda tatlar\u0131n\u0131n ne oldu\u011funu, b\u00f6re\u011fin nas\u0131l k\u0131zart\u0131lmas\u0131 gerekti\u011fi, kebab\u0131n nas\u0131l pi\u015firilmesinin lezzetine lezzet katt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 burada ke\u015ffedeceksiniz. Ve evet itiraf da edelim buras\u0131 arkada\u015f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n babas\u0131n\u0131n yeri. Ama torpil yapm\u0131yoruz. Yapmad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 gidip o muhte\u015fem yemeklerden tatt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda anlayacaks\u0131n\u0131z.<\/p>\n

Ve tabii ki Lahmajun Gaidz ile Mer Taghe. \u0130ki mekan\u0131n da birbirinden g\u00fczel lahmacunlar\u0131 var. Gaidz\u2019\u0131n \u00f6zelli\u011fi \u00e7ok say\u0131da tarifinin bulunmas\u0131. Her g\u00fcn bir ba\u015fkas\u0131n\u0131 yiyebilir ya da kalabal\u0131k bir grupla gittiyseniz \u00e7e\u015fitlerden payla\u015farak hepsini tatmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fabilirsiniz. Fakat tek \u00f6\u011f\u00fcnde bu yine de \u00e7ok zor. Mer Taghe ise lahmacununu \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r bir hamur \u00fczerine yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in g\u00f6nl\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc kazan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Gelelim \u0130stanbul mutfa\u011f\u0131na. \u0130lle de T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi \u00f6zlemenize gerek yok. Bolsohay yani \u0130stanbul Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 zaten art\u0131k ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u015fehirde de (Yazar burada herkesin kendi ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerde ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcr) tatma \u015fans\u0131n\u0131z birka\u00e7 olas\u0131l\u0131k d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda fazla yok. Burada ise Cosi e la Vita b\u00fct\u00fcn s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile bekliyor.<\/p>\n

Bu mekan Lerna Bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 \u00d6zder\u2019in, e\u015fi ve bir orta\u011f\u0131 Alex F\u0131nd\u0131ko\u011flu ile a\u00e7t\u0131klar\u0131 bir mekan. Ad\u0131 ise 24 Nisan 2011\u2019de, Ermeni Soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u0131\u2019n\u0131n y\u0131ld\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcnde askerdeyken katledilen Sevag Bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131\u2019n\u0131n hayalinden geliyor. Askerlik sonras\u0131 a\u00e7may\u0131 istedi\u011fi cafenin ad\u0131ym\u0131\u015f \u201cLa Vita.\u201d Ve burada onun en sevdi\u011fi yemekler men\u00fcye konulmu\u015f. Ba\u015fta sufle ve b\u00f6rek olmak \u00fczere\u2026 Ayr\u0131ca Ermenistanl\u0131lar\u0131n bilmedi\u011fi \u0130stanbul Ermeni mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan zeytinya\u011fl\u0131lar ve topik de listedeki yerini al\u0131yor elbette\u2026<\/p>\n

Cosi e la Vita\u2019n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu yer Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n en turistik merkezlerinden Cascade. Ama Facebook\u2019ta konum olarak belirledi\u011finizde kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za \u201c\u00c7a\u011flayan\u201d diye \u00e7\u0131kacak \u015fa\u015f\u0131rmay\u0131n. Yapacak bir \u015fey yok. Bu yap\u0131 Ararat\u2019\u0131 selamlarcas\u0131na merdivenler halinde y\u00fckseliyor. \u0130\u00e7inde Kafesciyan Sanat M\u00fczesi\u2019ni de bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131ndan gelen sanat eserleri ile birlikte\u2026<\/p>\n

Ve sabah kahvalt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 da kah Cosi e la Vita\u2019da kah \u00e7evresindeki \u00e7e\u015fitli kafelerde yapabilirsiniz. Yerevan her ne kadar Van gibi bir kahvalt\u0131 cenneti de\u011filse de yine de size mutluluk ile ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kurdurtacakt\u0131r. \u00d6zellikle de b\u00fcy\u00fck porsiyonlar\u0131 ve lezzetli \u00e7e\u015fitleri ile\u2026<\/p>\n

Yerevan\u2019\u0131n en keyifli yanlar\u0131ndan biri \u015fehrin d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131nda yer alan \u00e7e\u015fmeleri. \u00d6zellikle yaz\u0131n bu serin ve lezzetli su b\u00fcy\u00fck ferahl\u0131k sa\u011fl\u0131yor. Kendinizi bir Amerikan kolej filminde hissetmenize de neden oluyor tabii\u2026<\/p>\n

Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkentinde ziyaret edilmesi gereken \u00e7ok say\u0131da m\u00fcze var. Ancak bu yaz\u0131da \u00e7o\u011funa yer veremeyece\u011fiz. Malum internette uzun yaz\u0131 okunmuyor. Buraya kadar geldiyseniz bile \u015fansl\u0131y\u0131z. Mutlaka g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken, \u201cg\u00f6rmeden d\u00f6nme\u201d diyebilece\u011fimiz yer Matenaradan. Buras\u0131 Antik El Yazmalar\u0131 Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc. Hem de m\u00fcze olarak ziyaret\u00e7ilerini a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131yor. E\u015fine, benzerine rastlayabilmeniz m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil.<\/p>\n

Kap\u0131s\u0131nda sizi kar\u015f\u0131layan heykel ise Mesrob Ma\u015fdots. Kendisi Ermeni alfabesinin yarat\u0131c\u0131s\u0131 ve Hristiyanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n aziz mertebesine \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f savunucusu\u2026 \u00dcstelik de Daronlu, bug\u00fcnk\u00fc ad\u0131yla Mu\u015flu\u2026
\n\u201cBen el yazmalar\u0131ndan s\u0131k\u0131l\u0131r\u0131m\u201d diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeyin, muhakkak ilginizi \u00e7ekecek eser ve hatta eserler bulacaks\u0131n\u0131z. Buradaki birka\u00e7 saatlik ziyaretiniz sizi Ermeni tarihi, k\u00fclt\u00fcr ve sanat\u0131 ile tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131racak. \u00dcstelik b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc de Bat\u0131 Ermenistan yani bug\u00fcn T\u00fcrkiye s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131nda kalan topraklardan gelme\u2026 Soyk\u0131r\u0131mda yok edilmekten son anda kurtar\u0131lan eserlerden\u2026 Merak edenler i\u00e7in bkz. \u201cK\u00fclt\u00fcrel Soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u201d\u2026<\/p>\n

\u015eehir merkezi de zaten ac\u0131l\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fini k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck mahalleler halinde ya\u015fat\u0131yor. Nor Malatia, Nor Arabkir, Nor Sebastia, Nor Marash gibi. Bunun nedeni ile ilgili \u201cBaz\u0131 mahalleleri, Ermenilerin ka\u00e7mak g\u00f6\u00e7mek zorunda kald\u0131klar\u0131 T\u00fcrk \u015fehirlerin ad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yor\u201d deniliyor internette yer alan bir yorumda. Tabii can\u0131m. Hakl\u0131 tabii. Y\u00fczlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r ya\u015fad\u0131klar\u0131 anavatanlar\u0131n\u0131 birden be\u011fenmiyor Ermeniler. Ya da a\u00e7l\u0131k k\u0131tl\u0131k filan ba\u015fl\u0131yor bir zamanlar T\u00fcrklerin Orta Asya\u2019dan ayr\u0131lmak zorunda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi. Ka\u00e7\u0131veriyor, g\u00f6\u00e7\u00fcveriyor Ermeniler de\u011fil mi? O nedenle \u00f6zlemle \u015fehirlerinin isimlerini veriyorlar, daha \u00f6nce hi\u00e7 g\u00f6rmedikleri bu ba\u015fkentin semtlerine, ta\u015f\u0131na topra\u011f\u0131na.
\nE sonu\u00e7ta T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki Ermenilere \u201cAaaa siz Ermenistan\u2019dan ne zaman geldiniz?\u201d diye soran bir ku\u015fakla birlikte ya\u015f\u0131yoruz. O nedenle normal kar\u015f\u0131lamak gerek. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki resmi tarih anlat\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p ma\u011fdurun g\u00f6z\u00fcnden o d\u00f6nem neler ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek istiyorsan\u0131z bu rehberin son tavsiyesi, ilk yaz\u0131da de\u011findi\u011fimiz Ermeni Soyk\u0131r\u0131m M\u00fczesi\u2026<\/p>\n

\u0130\u00e7inde neler mi sizi bekliyor? Biz s\u00f6ylemeyelim. Gidin, siz kendiniz g\u00f6r\u00fcn. Tarihe bir nebze olsun tan\u0131k olun. Ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015f insan hikayelerini okuyun, foto\u011fraflardaki g\u00f6zlere, y\u00fczlere bak\u0131n. Ve sonras\u0131nda an\u0131ta gidin. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de her 24 Nisan\u2019da foto\u011fraf\u0131 gazetelerde, televizyonlarda yer alan an\u0131ta. Her \u015feyden s\u0131yr\u0131l\u0131n bir anl\u0131\u011f\u0131na\u2026 Duydu\u011funuz, okudu\u011funuz, size \u00f6\u011fretilen her \u015feyden. Sadece kendinizi birer Osmanl\u0131 vatanda\u015f\u0131yken s\u0131rf Ermeni oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in anavatan\u0131nda katledilen, Suriye \u00e7\u00f6llerine s\u00fcr\u00fclerek yok edilen insanlar\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda hissedin yeter. Kad\u0131nlar\u0131, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131, ya\u015fl\u0131lar\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn. Onlar\u0131n an\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n huzurunda oldu\u011funuzu. Ve yanan ate\u015fin sadece an\u0131t\u0131n ortas\u0131nda de\u011fil, yak\u0131n\u0131n\u0131 kaybeden her ailenin y\u00fcre\u011finde oldu\u011funu unutmay\u0131n\u2026 Birka\u00e7 karanfil koyun yeter\u2026 En az\u0131ndan ilk ziyaret i\u00e7in yeter bence\u2026<\/p>\n

M\u00fczeden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda \u015fehrin merkezine gidin. Ararat\u2019\u0131 bir kez daha selamlamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131n. E\u011fer t\u00fcm geziniz boyunca da\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6rememi\u015fseniz de \u00fcz\u00fclmeyin. Bu \u201cArarat sizin tekrar Yerevan\u2019a gelmenizi istiyor\u201d demektir. Yani en az\u0131ndan \u00f6yle diyorlar. \u201cE ama ben g\u00f6rd\u00fcm, yine de gelmek istiyorum\u201d diyenlerdenseniz, siz de art\u0131k bir Yerevan a\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131 oldunuz demektir.<\/p>\n

http:\/\/www.mylittleworldtour.com\/tr\/ermenistan-yemekleri-ve-ermenistan-mutfagi\/<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Serdar KORUCU Ermenistan: E\u011fer serinin ilk yaz\u0131s\u0131, \u201cYeni Ba\u015flayanlar \u0130\u00e7in Ermenistan\u201d\u0131 okuduysan\u0131z \u015fimdi \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkenti i\u00e7in tavsiyeleri teker teker payla\u015fmaya ba\u015flayal\u0131m. \u0130lk sorumuz, Ermenistan\u2019a nas\u0131l gidilir? T\u00fcrkiye ile Ermenistan aras\u0131nda diplomatik ili\u015fki yok ama gidecek yol \u00e7ok. \u0130sterseniz \u0130stanbul-Yerevan hatt\u0131nda do\u011frudan u\u00e7abilirsiniz. \u0130sterseniz de G\u00fcrcistan \u00fczerinden karayolu ile Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkentine ula\u015fabilirsiniz. Uzun kara yolculuklar\u0131na dayan\u0131kl\u0131 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":43794,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-43793","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-haberler","category-mutfak"],"yoast_head":"\nYEREVAN\u2026 Ermenistan\u2019da bir T\u00fcrkiyeli \u201cdaha\u201d - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=43793\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"YEREVAN\u2026 Ermenistan\u2019da bir T\u00fcrkiyeli \u201cdaha\u201d - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Serdar KORUCU Ermenistan: E\u011fer serinin ilk yaz\u0131s\u0131, \u201cYeni Ba\u015flayanlar \u0130\u00e7in Ermenistan\u201d\u0131 okuduysan\u0131z \u015fimdi \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkenti i\u00e7in tavsiyeleri teker teker payla\u015fmaya ba\u015flayal\u0131m. \u0130lk sorumuz, Ermenistan\u2019a nas\u0131l gidilir? T\u00fcrkiye ile Ermenistan aras\u0131nda diplomatik ili\u015fki yok ama gidecek yol \u00e7ok. \u0130sterseniz \u0130stanbul-Yerevan hatt\u0131nda do\u011frudan u\u00e7abilirsiniz. \u0130sterseniz de G\u00fcrcistan \u00fczerinden karayolu ile Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkentine ula\u015fabilirsiniz. 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Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=43793","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"YEREVAN\u2026 Ermenistan\u2019da bir T\u00fcrkiyeli \u201cdaha\u201d - Bati Ermenistan Ve Bati Ermenileri Sorunlari Ara\u015ftirmalar Merkezi","og_description":"Serdar KORUCU Ermenistan: E\u011fer serinin ilk yaz\u0131s\u0131, \u201cYeni Ba\u015flayanlar \u0130\u00e7in Ermenistan\u201d\u0131 okuduysan\u0131z \u015fimdi \u00fclkenin ba\u015fkenti i\u00e7in tavsiyeleri teker teker payla\u015fmaya ba\u015flayal\u0131m. \u0130lk sorumuz, Ermenistan\u2019a nas\u0131l gidilir? T\u00fcrkiye ile Ermenistan aras\u0131nda diplomatik ili\u015fki yok ama gidecek yol \u00e7ok. \u0130sterseniz \u0130stanbul-Yerevan hatt\u0131nda do\u011frudan u\u00e7abilirsiniz. \u0130sterseniz de G\u00fcrcistan \u00fczerinden karayolu ile Ermenistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkentine ula\u015fabilirsiniz. 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