{"id":43094,"date":"2016-12-13T02:16:20","date_gmt":"2016-12-13T07:16:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=43094"},"modified":"2016-12-13T02:16:20","modified_gmt":"2016-12-13T07:16:20","slug":"pastanin-turkiye-seruveni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akunq.net\/tr\/?p=43094","title":{"rendered":"Pastan\u0131n T\u00fcrkiye ser\u00fcveni"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"%d5%b0%d5%a1%d5%b4%d5%b7%d5%a5%d5%b6%d6%81%d5%ab-%d5%b0%d5%a1%d5%b5%d5%a5%d6%80\"<\/a>Ge\u00e7mi\u015ften bu yana insanlar \u00f6zel g\u00fcnler ve t\u00f6renleri pasta ile kutluyor. <\/em>Bu kutlamalar asl\u0131nda kadim zamanlardan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze gelen bir rit\u00fcel\u2026 <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Seran Vreskala<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

svreskala@gazeteduvar.com.tr<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

DUVAR-<\/strong> Pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 anlatmadan evvel pastan\u0131n tarihine bir g\u00f6z atmak laz\u0131m! Oxford \u0130ngilizce S\u00f6zl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde pasta (cake) kelimesi 13\u2019\u00fcnc\u00fc y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar gidiyor. Pasta kelimesine her ne kadar 13\u2019\u00fcnc\u00fc y\u00fczy\u0131lda rastlanm\u0131\u015f olsa bile, pastan\u0131n tarihi asl\u0131nda kadim zamanlara kadar uzan\u0131yor. \u0130lk kek bug\u00fcn yedi\u011fimizden \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 olarak, balla tatland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir ekme\u011fe benziyormu\u015f. Zaten tarihte pastac\u0131l\u0131k da insano\u011flunun ilk ekme\u011fi yap\u0131p, onu \u00e7e\u015fitli malzemelerle tatland\u0131rmas\u0131yla ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. O zamanlar bile pasta yap\u0131m\u0131nda kuruyemi\u015f kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve bu kekler genellikle dini t\u00f6renlerde sunulmak \u00fczere yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

En eski \u00e7a\u011flardan beri tar\u0131mla u\u011fra\u015fanlar\u0131n tanr\u0131lara sunulmak \u00fczere tah\u0131l ve meyvelerden haz\u0131rlad\u0131klar\u0131 kekler asl\u0131nda inand\u0131klar\u0131 dinin sembolleri olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131. Yani pastan\u0131n boyutu ve \u015fekli, e\u015fit a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kta rit\u00fcelik \u00f6neme sahipti. Genelde kullan\u0131lan \u015fekiller inan\u0131\u015flara g\u00f6re de\u011fi\u015firdi. Yuvarlak ve dairesel kekler, hayat d\u00f6ng\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc ya da g\u00fcne\u015fi veya ay\u0131 sembolize ederdi. Bu anlamda yap\u0131lan t\u00fcm pasta ve kekler, halklar\u0131n inand\u0131\u011f\u0131 efsanelerle ili\u015fkiliydi.<\/p>\n

PASTANIN MASALSI GER\u00c7EKLER\u0130<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kadim zamanlarda, kullar\u0131n \u015f\u00fckran duygular\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6stermek i\u00e7in tanr\u0131lar\u0131na sunduklar\u0131 pastalar\u0131n y\u0131ll\u0131k d\u00f6ng\u00fcyle de bir ba\u011flar\u0131 vard\u0131. Mesela \u00c7inliler, mevsimsel d\u00f6ng\u00fcde ay\u0131n \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir rol oynad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcklerinden, ay tanr\u0131\u00e7as\u0131 \u2018Heng O\u2019yu onurland\u0131rmak i\u00e7in hasat zaman\u0131nda halal ay gibi yuvarlak bir pasta yap\u0131p, bunu bir festivalle kutluyorlar. Ya da Paganl\u0131\u011f\u0131n h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc d\u00f6nemlerde g\u00fcne\u015f tanr\u0131s\u0131na sayg\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 sunmak i\u00e7in yap\u0131lan bir Slav bayram\u0131 olarak ba\u015flayan ve halen Rusya dahil t\u00fcm Do\u011fu Avrupa\u2019da ilkbahar\u0131 m\u00fcjdelemek ad\u0131na kutlanan Maslenitsa festivalinde, bir hafta boyunca g\u00fcne\u015f \u015feklinde krepler (bliniler) yap\u0131l\u0131yor. \u0130lkbahar g\u00fcne\u015fini kutlamak i\u00e7in yuvarlak pasta yapanlar sadece Pagan Slavlar de\u011fildi tabii ki! Antik Keltler de ilkbahar\u0131n ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcnde kutlad\u0131klar\u0131 \u2018Beltane ate\u015f festivali\u2019nde, g\u00fcne\u015fe benzeyen kekler yaparlard\u0131. Hatta geleneklerine g\u00f6re, g\u00fcne\u015fin hareketlerine devam etmesi i\u00e7in, yapt\u0131klar\u0131 kekleri bir tepeden a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 yuvarlarlard\u0131. Bu etkinlik ayn\u0131 zamanda bir kehanet \u015fekli olarak da kullan\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131: E\u011fer pasta tepenin dibine ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bozulursa, pastay\u0131 yuvarlayan ki\u015finin o y\u0131l \u00f6lece\u011fine, bozulmazsa ki\u015finin o y\u0131l iyi bir servet kazanaca\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n

Pastac\u0131l\u0131k tarihinde as\u0131l b\u00fcy\u00fck d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm 18\u2019inci y\u00fczy\u0131lda Vatel\u2019in krem \u015fantiyi bulmas\u0131yla ger\u00e7ekle\u015fir. Ayn\u0131 y\u0131llarda ise Stanislas Leczinski \u2018Baba Reale\u2019yi yani \u2018\u015eambaba\u2019y\u0131 ke\u015ffeder. \u00dcnl\u00fc Frans\u0131z Pastac\u0131 Marie-Antoine Car\u00eame ile pastac\u0131l\u0131k daha da geli\u015fir ve 19\u2019uncu y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ortalar\u0131na gelindi\u011finde, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde bildi\u011fimiz \u015fekliyle pasta art\u0131k tarihteki yerini al\u0131r.<\/p>\n

HEM\u015e\u0130NL\u0130 PASTACILARIN SIRRI<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pastac\u0131l\u0131k her ne kadar kadim zamanlardan gelmi\u015f olsa bile, \u00fclkemizde pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n tarihi \u00e7ok eskilere dayanm\u0131yor. Her ne kadar \u00fclkenin bat\u0131s\u0131nda pastac\u0131l\u0131k Ermeni veya Rumlar\u0131n tekelinde olsa da Anadolu\u2019ya kuzeyden gelmi\u015f. Bundan dolay\u0131, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131l\u0131k ve pastac\u0131l\u0131k i\u015fini yapanlar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu Rizeli ve \u00f6zellikle de Hem\u015finli. En yak\u0131n\u0131n\u0131zda bulunan herhangi bir pastaneye gidip, sahibinin nereli oldu\u011funu sorun; b\u00fcy\u00fck ihtimalle Hem\u015finli oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yleyecektir \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc Hem\u015finliler T\u00fcrk pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n mihenk ta\u015flar\u0131\u2026 Bu elbette tesad\u00fcfen ortaya \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir sonu\u00e7 de\u011fil. Pastan\u0131n Anadolu\u2019daki ser\u00fcveni bir hayli ilgin\u00e7. Pastac\u0131l\u0131k ilk olarak 19\u2019uncu y\u00fczy\u0131lda Rusya\u2019ya giden Karadenizli gurbet\u00e7iler sayesinde \u00fclkemize gelmi\u015f. 1800\u2019l\u00fc y\u0131llarda M\u0131s\u0131r Valisi Kavalal\u0131 Mehmet Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 isyan\u0131 bast\u0131rmak i\u00e7in d\u00f6nemin padi\u015fah\u0131 Rusya\u2019dan yard\u0131m ister ve isyan bast\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r. Bu durum Osmanl\u0131-Rus yak\u0131nla\u015fmas\u0131na neden olur. Bu yak\u0131nla\u015fma ile Rus \u00c7ar\u0131 geli\u015fmekte olan \u00c7arl\u0131k ekonomisini canland\u0131rmak i\u00e7in kap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 Do\u011fu Karadeniz halk\u0131na a\u00e7ar. Rusya\u2019ya giden Karadenizliler d\u00fcnyada hamur i\u015fini en iyi yapan Ruslar sayesinde \u00f6zellikle pastac\u0131l\u0131k, f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131l\u0131k ve lokantac\u0131l\u0131k alan\u0131nda uzmanla\u015f\u0131rlar. A\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 olarak Hem\u015finlilerden olu\u015fan bu gurbet\u00e7i grubu, vatanlar\u0131na geri d\u00f6nerek, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin \u00e7e\u015fitli b\u00f6lgelerinde pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011fa ba\u015flam\u0131\u015flar. B\u00f6ylece yava\u015f yava\u015f pastac\u0131l\u0131k i\u015fi T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de geli\u015fmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. Pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 Rusya\u2019dan \u00f6\u011frenmelerine ra\u011fmen, bug\u00fcn gelinen noktada pastac\u0131l\u0131k konusunda Hem\u015finliler Rusya\u2019y\u0131 \u00e7oktan ge\u00e7mi\u015f durumda\u2026<\/p>\n

Daha fazla bilgi alabilmek i\u00e7in, bu konuda kitap yazan Karadenizli ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131 gazeteci U\u011fur Biryol\u2019la k\u0131sa bir s\u00f6yle\u015fi de yapt\u0131k.<\/p>\n

\u2018Gurbet Pastas\u0131\u2019 isimli bir kitap yazd\u0131n\u0131z, pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011fa ve tarih\u00e7esine olan ilginiz nereden geliyor?<\/strong>
\nAsl\u0131nda tamamen co\u011frafi zorunluluk diyelim\u2026 Pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f hik\u00e2yesinin do\u011fdu\u011fu memleketten olmam, bu hik\u00e2yeyi yazmaya iten en \u00f6nemli sebep. \u00c7aml\u0131hem\u015fin\u2019deki devasa konaklar\u0131n i\u00e7erisinde b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fcm, babaannemin evi de bir konakt\u0131, dedesinin evi de\u2026 \u00c7ocuklu\u011fumuz o konaklarda, k\u00f6ylerde ge\u00e7ti. B\u00fcy\u00fcy\u00fcnce bu evlerin nas\u0131l yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 merak edip, hik\u00e2yesini yazmaya karar verdim. Babaannemin dedesi Hur\u015fit A\u011fa\u2019n\u0131n ve \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n\u0131n Rusya\u2019da pastac\u0131l\u0131k yap\u0131p, o mesle\u011fi buraya ta\u015f\u0131mas\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fc ilgimi \u00e7ekti. Yakla\u015f\u0131k sekiz senelik bir s\u00fcre\u00e7te de \u2018Gurbet Pastas\u0131\u2019 do\u011fdu. \u00d6ncelikle \u00c7aml\u0131hem\u015fin\u2019e gelen pasta ustalar\u0131n\u0131 yakalay\u0131p, r\u00f6portajlar yapt\u0131m, ard\u0131ndan da gurbettekilere gidip hik\u00e2yelerini anlatt\u0131rd\u0131m. B\u00f6ylece bu ilgin\u00e7 ser\u00fcven ilk defa bir kitaba, daha sonra da belgesele konu oldu. 2013 y\u0131l\u0131nda bunun belgeselini de yapt\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Pastane sahiplerinin \u00e7o\u011fu Hem\u015fin\u2019den geliyor.<\/strong>
\nAra\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131m\u0131z, Hem\u015fin\u2019den 186 ailenin ve bir o kadar da bireyin Rusya\u2019ya, Polonya\u2019ya gidip bu mesle\u011fi orada \u00f6\u011frenip, d\u00f6n\u00fcp memleketlerine bunu ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6steriyor. Tabii bunu \u00c7aml\u0131hem\u015fin\u2019de de\u011fil, b\u00fcy\u00fck kentlerde yap\u0131yorlar. \u0130stanbul\u2019da bu i\u015f a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 olarak Ermeni ve Rumlar eliyle y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fcl\u00fcrken, Anadolu\u2019da hemen hemen hi\u00e7 pastane olmamas\u0131 Hem\u015finliler i\u00e7in avantaja d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor, o nedenle Anadolu\u2019ya pastay\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan Hem\u015finliler oluyor.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye pasta ilk nereden gelmi\u015f? Nas\u0131l geli\u015fmi\u015f?<\/strong>
\n\u0130stanbul\u2019da gayrim\u00fcslimler eliyle var olan bir pastac\u0131l\u0131k varm\u0131\u015f zaten, Osmanl\u0131lar d\u00f6neminde de belirli yerlerde, Avrupa\u2019dan esinlenilerek yap\u0131lan baz\u0131 tatlar mevcut ama bu tabii \u00e7ok sonralar\u0131\u2026Anadolu\u2019da da bu i\u015fi s\u00fcrd\u00fcren Hem\u015finliler. Ama \u015fimdilerde Konyal\u0131lar, Kastamonulular ve \u00c7ank\u0131r\u0131l\u0131lar da yap\u0131yor. \u0130spirliler de f\u0131r\u0131nc\u0131l\u0131kta \u00f6nc\u00fc\u2026<\/p>\n

Ge\u00e7mi\u015fle bug\u00fcn\u00fc kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131rsan\u0131z, pastac\u0131l\u0131k \u015fimdi ne durumda?<\/strong>
\n\u015eimdi end\u00fcstriyel pastac\u0131l\u0131k var; haz\u0131r pasta haz\u0131r krema\u2026Her \u015fey haz\u0131r, tarifi bile internette var pastan\u0131n\u2026 Geleneksel pastac\u0131l\u0131k yapan mekan say\u0131s\u0131 ise bir elin parma\u011f\u0131 kadar. Ankara\u2019da Damla, Funda, Meram; \u0130zmir\u2019de \u015eortan gibi pastaneler hala geleneksel pastac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 da s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Bozcaada\u2019daki \u00c7i\u00e7ek Pastanesi\u2019ni de unutmamak laz\u0131m. Yani her pastanede illa ki teknolojinin imkanlar\u0131 var ama geleneksel pastac\u0131l\u0131k kurallar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcren pastaneler de yok de\u011fil!<\/p>\n

Pastaya dair\u00a0ilgin\u00e7 bilgiler<\/strong><\/p>\n